Dustyn

Cts Vapor Trail 10' 1.5 - 3 oz

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This is my second build so far, I've had alot of help from my brother gabeskillz05 and friend Matt Boyer. Both frequent this form.

Like the title says this is a 10 foot CTS Vapor Trail, guide train is as follows :

Rv25h 20.25" from reel pin at mid position

Kl12h 16" from Rv25h

Kl8m 8.75 from Kl12h

Kl7l 7.5" from Kl8m

Kt7 runners #7:  choke is 6.5" from Kl7l, then 5.25" and dropping 0.25" each time to tip.

 Reel is a vsx150 with 30lb super slick.

 

I am still working on it, tonight I am putting poxy on the trimbands and the underwrap for the Rv25h.

Any tips will help thanks!

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

 

I calculated 27" from butt to reel - pretty long, But its your rod and suits you, or did I make a mistake?

Past experience says a 10' rod with the RV25 at 20.25" is too close for a VSX150 filled with 30lb SS, I would have it closer to 25"

16" is a big gap between the RV25 and the KL12H

Before you comit to epoxy you could try just pushing the stripper forward by 4" or so

You are fully choked at the KL7L, 98 and a bit % by the 8M

Edited by ZAFisher

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14 mins ago, ZAFisher said:

 

I calculated 27" from butt to reel - pretty long, But its your rod and suits you, or did I make a mistake?

Center of reel foot to butt is around 24", I'll get a better measurement tonight. I put a light layer of epoxy on the underwrap last night. When I test casted I moved the stripper around and it didn't seem to change negative or positive. I just fell back on the concept calculators measurement. I'm not opposed to cutting the under wrap off and pushing it out.

Thanks for the feedback ill post again.

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2 hours ago, ZAFisher said:

 

I calculated 27" from butt to reel - pretty long, But its your rod and suits you, or did I make a mistake?

Past experience says a 10' rod with the RV25 at 20.25" is too close for a VSX150 filled with 30lb SS, I would have it closer to 25"

16" is a big gap between the RV25 and the KL12H

Before you comit to epoxy you could try just pushing the stripper forward by 4" or so

You are fully choked at the KL7L, 98 and a bit % by the 8M

I tend to agree but a 150 never seemed to cause me any issues on test casting. Everything seemed to work. But above that, 200/zb20, others - yes it definitely matters. 

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you need to really test cast with the RV. one of the features of this guide frame is that it will not tangle if your line goers past the guide and wraps the frame. I have seen this happen with high speed photos. the line wont stop it will go past the guide wrap on the frame but be shed and go through the guide. i played around with a build moving the guide closer and closer until this happened and you could feel it on the cast. im sure it happens and effects you cast a bit before you can feel it. best thing to do is test cast a lot, checking that the line isnt gpong past the striiper guide. 

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9 hours ago, pricise10 said:

I need a cts blank , where you get yours? 

I got mine from cts via coupon, message HL on here and ask him about it.

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1 hour ago, Dustyn said:

I got mine from cts via coupon, message HL on here and ask him about it.

Can’t seem to find him. 

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Couple issues I've noticed so far/ things I'll change on further builds.

 

I didn't do locking wraps on my single foot runners, and I would like to use kb runners on my next builds.

 

I applied poxy on the rod dryer so I couldn't do momentary stops to get a clean line on the top side of the guide foot. (I have the alps wrapper coming this should fix this).

 

The Rv25h I'm thinking is a little too close to the reel, (from what a few guys have said on here) need to do more test casting with taped on guides.

 

Making ramps out of the reel seat glue instead of building the reel seat transitions out of thread. It looks good but I would of saved some thread.

 

I should have under wrapped all the guides, in direct light some of the blue from the blank shows through.

 

I'll be fishing this by the end of the week I'll put up some pictures then.

 

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