puff tentacle

Troubleshooting Power trim issue

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34 posts in this topic

3 hours ago, puff tentacle said:

I took the battery to Napa today and it was fine . 

A five year old battery should be replaced regardless just as others have said.  I do 3 years on my batteries & then buy new - regardless of their condition.  It's good preventative practice.  As for the power T&T, your next step should be to check the fluid level & top it off if it's low.  That may fix it short term but it's likely that there's a leak somewhere so the problem may recur.  I had a similar issue with mine last year & replaced all of the seals over the winter.  It seems to be working fine now.  Good luck!

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11 mins ago, vinnyb said:

A five year old battery should be replaced regardless just as others have said.  I do 3 years on my batteries & then buy new - regardless of their condition.  It's good preventative practice.  As for the power T&T, your next step should be to check the fluid level & top it off if it's low.  That may fix it short term but it's likely that there's a leak somewhere so the problem may recur.  I had a similar issue with mine last year & replaced all of the seals over the winter.  It seems to be working fine now.  Good luck!

Yeah, I bought a new battery today at Napa because of exactly what you said.   Believe it or not the guy at Napa told me the battery was from 2013, I bought the boat used two years ago and I thought the previous owner told me it was 2 or 3 years old.  That’s pretty damn good life from a battery . The guy at Napa told me it was still good but probably  still a good idea to get a new one .  

Weather permitting, I am going to check the trim fluid reservoir tomorrow and go from there.  I agree about possibly being a short term fix due to a potential leak,  however,  the boat is a 2003 and who knows if the fluid was ever added by the two previous owners.  We will see,  I will let you guys know.  

Thanks 

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9 hours ago, puff tentacle said:

Believe it or not the guy at Napa told me the battery was from 2013, I bought the boat used two years ago and I thought the previous owner told me it was 2 or 3 years old.  That’s pretty damn good life from a battery .

To say the least ;-).  Consider yourself lucky - when they go it's sometimes quick & without warning.  Another thing you may consider is adding an additional battery & switch.  It's a pretty common upgrade & will give you a backup if/when one of them fails.  Nothing worse than showing up at your boat before dawn to fish, turn the key and ..... nothing.  This is the exact scenario that caused me to add a 2nd battery.

 

I agree with you logic on the power trim fluid & it's really not a big deal to add when needed except for the fact that the boat needs to be out of the water to do it which is a PIA if your boat stays in all year.  As I mentioned, I had a similar issue last year - probably started about half way thru the season - and I was able to limp thru the remainder of the season with it.  It struggled to lift the motor but lowering was fine due to the help of gravity :-).  Interestingly, after running the motor for awhile the situation would improve - meaning that it would lift the motor without much issue.  Not sure why that was to be honest since it's a completely different system.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I have a couple of different engines and more over the years.  They more or less are the same. With the same problems.

 

so you brought the battery to Napa and its ok.  That rules out the battery.

Have you done anything to the pump? like adding fluid lately.

Did you ck. the connections to see if dirty or loose. 

Does the motor itself start right up?

Edited by ccb

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On 4/14/2020 at 9:40 AM, Captain Ahab said:

If hooking a jump to the battery at the terminals fixes the problem that you either need a new battery or at least a good charge on your old one.  If it does not start pulling and cleaning every wire that goes from the battery to the tilt motor - Sandpaper and wire brush to get a good clean connection. 

 

Check the wires, salt water can destroy the inside of a copper wire leaving the insulation  - if the wire feels "crunchy" or the ends where they go to a connector are green, black or just nasty you may need to put in new TINNED marine wires.

 

I would, as a matter of course, replace a 5 year old boat battery unless you got a good set of oars and a strong back!   Just because it turns over your outboard at the dock does not mean it will do so at 8 pm and 30 mph NE winds when your engine quits at the tip of the jetty.  Not a good place to test it 

The copper turns to greenish dust. When power is applied to the wire, this dust will "saturate", meaning it will carry enough charge to read terminal volts on a meter.....at the same time restricting, if not eliminating current flow. Can make for tricky troubleshooting.

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On 4/14/2020 at 11:29 PM, puff tentacle said:

Yeah, I bought a new battery today at Napa because of exactly what you said.   Believe it or not the guy at Napa told me the battery was from 2013, I bought the boat used two years ago and I thought the previous owner told me it was 2 or 3 years old.  That’s pretty damn good life from a battery . The guy at Napa told me it was still good but probably  still a good idea to get a new one .  

Weather permitting, I am going to check the trim fluid reservoir tomorrow and go from there.  I agree about possibly being a short term fix due to a potential leak,  however,  the boat is a 2003 and who knows if the fluid was ever added by the two previous owners.  We will see,  I will let you guys know.  

Thanks 

Every battery has a date of manufacture on it.  Usually punch holes in the label.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I like VinnyB change my battery out every 2-3 years. With 2 batteries and alternating upgrades, I am almost always running off of a new one that is within 12-18 months old. I buy a notch up from cheap. My last 3 have been Duracells and have held up very well. 

 

Also mentioned was the wiring. I have had older boats that the wire corroded from the inside out. Cutting it at any point along the way would yield black copper wire. Saltwater and electricity do not get along. 

Edited by NHAngler

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Is it slow going up as well as coming down? If not, it could be a relay going bad, but it sounds like you may need fluid.

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36 mins ago, acesover said:

Is it slow going up as well as coming down? If not, it could be a relay going bad, but it sounds like you may need fluid.

I really think it is low on fluid.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

 Update,  so I tried checking the fluid/adding at the dock under less than ideal conditions(wind) ,and was not able to get the cap off without stripping it.  I had an oil can with a nice flexible hose on it that I think would have done the job if I got that Freaking cap off.  With my mechanical skill level , I would have definitely stripped the ***** out of it or if I did manage to get it off , I would have surely dropped it in the drink.  I am better off just hauling the boat and doing this at the ramp .  Hopefully low fluid w/o a leak is the issue ,and I put her back in and go on my Merry way.

here is my culprit :

 

BTW ...this is the pre attempt picture before a few attempts at it.   The plastic looks less than prestine now !!!!:waah:

 

 

FF88613D-CD8E-4075-880E-91B051576BCF.jpeg

Edited by puff tentacle

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 . Put a set of vise  grip on a long long screw driver. Use a big tip. Now you have something to torq with and press in at same time. A little trick I use. Dont use any power tools.

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9 hours ago, makorider said:

Did you check/clean/tighten all electrical connections yet?

Yes sir ,plus new battery

I Haven’t has the opportunity/weather to pull the boat to check/add fluid.  Weather in Northeast not looking great this week either 

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8 hours ago, oldmanjoe said:

I have a honda 130 also .     Had the same problem , removed the cap with plyers and added transmission fluid .   Works well now.

Just curious, did you have a leak ?  Sounds like you didn’t 

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