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Coronavirus Tying Projects

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new to tying this year, plenty of time at home has had me tying and fishing quite a bit, most recently I tried my hand at some snake flies, I think I still have some trimming to do on the heads ?IMG_20200617_082337_404.jpg.dccb5ca9e0cf3447bfd48fef389bebc7.jpg

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On 6/21/2020 at 8:20 PM, dkanoafry said:

new to tying this year, plenty of time at home has had me tying and fishing quite a bit, most recently I tried my hand at some snake flies, I think I still have some trimming to do on the heads ?IMG_20200617_082337_404.jpg.dccb5ca9e0cf3447bfd48fef389bebc7.jpg

All depends what you want the fly to do - larger head will push more water, similar to a popper - tighter head (shorter trim) will act more like a glider plug on a strip retrieve.  Best bet is to have on hand both head configurations - fish will tell you what they want on that outing. You can also play around with the head being symmetrically cylindrical, as a finger mullet imitation (my favorite) or trimmed with a flat bottom (to stay on top of the water) or a flat sloped top, the latter which will tend to dive on a strip retrieve, and surface on the pause.  There is also a configuration where the sides are trimmed flat on a large head, intending to imitate a peanut bunker or juvenile Herring but the name of this fly escapes me.

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On 4/15/2020 at 10:59 AM, chuckbucktail said:

 

Both bass took this thing pretty deep which I don't love. Maybe due to the long shank hook? Anyone tie clousers on short shanks?

I've been trying Mustad Circle streamer hooks this year.  Clouser patterns work well in size 1 to 2/0.  I've been connecting on greater than 90% of strikes and all of them are hooked in the upper jaw or hinge.

 

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13 hours ago, FlatWing said:

All depends what you want the fly to do - larger head will push more water, similar to a popper - tighter head (shorter trim) will act more like a glider plug on a strip retrieve.  Best bet is to have on hand both head configurations - fish will tell you what they want on that outing. You can also play around with the head being symmetrically cylindrical, as a finger mullet imitation (my favorite) or trimmed with a flat bottom (to stay on top of the water) or a flat sloped top, the latter which will tend to dive on a strip retrieve, and surface on the pause.  There is also a configuration where the sides are trimmed flat on a large head, intending to imitate a peanut bunker or juvenile Herring but the name of this fly escapes me.

Forgot pictures of some of mine

0718190112.jpg

0718190109.jpg

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A plague of frogs.  I posted the first one I tied up a while ago.  This is pretty much the final tally, just need to finish up tying in the legs and coat a couple with UV resin.

 

 

 

 

P6280622.JPG

P6280631.JPG

P6280625.JPG

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On 6/21/2020 at 8:20 PM, dkanoafry said:

new to tying this year, plenty of time at home has had me tying and fishing quite a bit, most recently I tried my hand at some snake flies, I think I still have some trimming to do on the heads ?IMG_20200617_082337_404.jpg.dccb5ca9e0cf3447bfd48fef389bebc7.jpg

Nice flies dkano.  A few years back I was fishing a snake that looked exactly like yours on the right  one night on the Vineyard and it got him hit by freight train. Strongest first run I’d ever experienced with a Striper. Weighed in just under 20.

Edited by Orca

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Love flatwings. Posted on another thread a short while ago. On EC254 hooks, Cordeiro's Flat Mack (with a few material substitutions), Abrames'  Razzle Dazzle and an East Coast Ghost with an added peacock herl topping.20200613_093313.jpg.532b068d30a687f82d70fe486798f562.jpg20200613_093452.jpg.9b7d4b8cb6de9036a60432754ae0c551.jpg20200614_142359.jpg.177ef3152f2fb00822ea45baa2823b9d.jpg

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Suave - good looking flies - some tips I give to all - though not always possible, try to stagger hackle lengths with each successive layer - I realize this can make the fly quite long and requires true Flatwing, EuroHackle or Herbert Miner Silver or Bronze Grade hackles - hard to come by.  Regarding the bucktail - always use the hairs from the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the tail (with the tip facing down, of course).  My absolute rule is to count hairs, with 15 on bottom, 8 on each side, and 15 on top, with each area a single hair thickness veil.  I wrap a relatively thick body braid, and use that to flair the hairs, giving the illusion of bulk.  I will post a picture later today of another Moby Dick before/after I wrap the collar and wing.

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On 2020-07-06 at 2:29 PM, FlatWing said:

Suave - good looking flies - some tips I give to all - though not always possible, try to stagger hackle lengths with each successive layer - I realize this can make the fly quite long and requires true Flatwing, EuroHackle or Herbert Miner Silver or Bronze Grade hackles - hard to come by.  Regarding the bucktail - always use the hairs from the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the tail (with the tip facing down, of course).  My absolute rule is to count hairs, with 15 on bottom, 8 on each side, and 15 on top, with each area a single hair thickness veil.  I wrap a relatively thick body braid, and use that to flair the hairs, giving the illusion of bulk.  I will post a picture later today of another Moby Dick before/after I wrap the collar and wing.

Thanks for the tips and posting the pictures. The flatwings I posted are the last three I tied a few weeks ago after filling a big box withquite a few dozens a few years ago and now I'm running out of flatwing hackles which are tough to come by up here. Anyway, if I get around to tying more, I'll make a point of staggering the hackles. As for counting the bucktail hairs, I do so even if I put two or three times more hairs than you do as I was mainly following the dressings of another well known flatwing fly tyer who  (just checked to make sure) calls for anywhere from 30 to 65 hairs in a wing. But I like the look of your flies so, if there is a next time for me, my flatwings will be sparser. 

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