fishinguy76

Striper Popping Bugs

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Hi Folks,

 

Looking for some ideas/recommendations.  Need a striper fly that make a ton of commotion on the surface. Bob's bangers and crease flies are great but they do not make enough for my fishing situation. 

 

Any ideas/pictures would be helpful.

 

Tight Lines

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9's and 10's mainly, but if it gets howling I'll pull out an 11, and, for these bigger disturbance popper's I'm thinking an 11 will be required.

 

Got any photos of your modified pencil popper?

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Offshore style poppers with big foam heads made on tubes. Then you can use whatever hook fits the situation. I can usually cast them with my 10 wt. unless it's real windy. The heads are 1" diameter or bigger. 

 

The last 3 photos is of one that I used to make some a guide who fished in South America for Peacock Bass and other large fish down there. It's made on a heavy wire 7/0 Gamakatsu jig hook. With the hook eye on the bottom, it makes it easier to pick up for casting, but it still makes a lot of commotion because the face is cupped by extending the mylar body cover and epoxying the whole thing. There's rattles inserted into the back side of the head too. They work fine on any large predatory fish. 

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Edited by Jim H

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4 hours ago, Kml said:

I never saw a jig hook used for a banger before. 

What is the thought process there and how is it set in the foam?

 

like walk the dog type lures,where their tie on is.For the idea to work properly you need to have the same taper to the face as the WtD lures.

The biggest problem w/ most poppers is that the hook goes through the center.Put it so it's inserted through the bottom 1/4 of the foam so more of the face is above the waterline.

Another issue is cupped or flat faces.Cups might,in theory,create more pop but they go underwater when pulled so the "pop" is cut short or a big "glug".Concave is also harder to pick up for the cast as the face digs in when you pull.

A flat face is just OK but I'll take it over a cupped face.

For me,the best results are realized from cutting a 45deg angle for the face and set the hook low on the body.On larger poppers,like over 2/0 I like to trim the top/pointy end of the 45 flat to prevent diving on the pickup.

You can see the angle of the face,low on the body setting for the hook and trimmed 45 on the face of this 8" popper.

When I use big poppers,like 7-10" on 6-9/0 hooks I use an I line to make them dive up and down.Cast them across a fast flowing piece of water and strip like h311 and hold on!

P8200161.JPG

Edited by slip n slide

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2 hours ago, slip n slide said:

like walk the dog type lures,where their tie on is.For the idea to work properly you need to have the same taper to the face as the WtD lures.

The biggest problem w/ most poppers is that the hook goes through the center.Put it so it's inserted through the bottom 1/4 of the foam so more of the face is above the waterline.

Another issue is cupped or flat faces.Cups might,in theory,create more pop but they go underwater when pulled so the "pop" is cut short or a big "glug".Concave is also harder to pick up for the cast as the face digs in when you pull.

A flat face is just OK but I'll take it over a cupped face.

For me,the best results are realized from cutting a 45deg angle for the face and set the hook low on the body.On larger poppers,like over 2/0 I like to trim the top/pointy end of the 45 flat to prevent diving on the pickup.

You can see the angle of the face,low on the body setting for the hook and trimmed 45 on the face of this 8" popper.

When I use big poppers,like 7-10" on 6-9/0 hooks I use an I line to make them dive up and down.Cast them across a fast flowing piece of water and strip like h311 and hold on!

P8200161.JPG

Excellent comments and advice and I agree with everything you've said. 

 

Kml, as for using the jig hook. At the time, I needed a strong, but light hook. As I said, that popper was intended for Peacock Bass initially.  The bend in the hook works like a kinked popper hook and aids in making the body mount stronger on the hook so they won't turn easily. That body is epoxied on the hook after a solid thread base is wrapped. Being a jig hook it positioned the eye on the bottom. It wasn't intended to get a big walk the dog action because of the cupped face on the popper, but as slip n slide said, it would help. That hook is a 7/0 Gamakatsu Heavy Wire jig hook. It was the best hook available at the time. 

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11 mins ago, fishinguy76 said:

Have you tried any of the 60 degree jig hooks that are now available?

I do tie some flies on that type of hook, but have not done it with poppers. The shank lengths are usually too short for one reason. However, I feel that anything is possible. 

 

I just got 100 Mustad Ultra Points in a size 1 and with a tinned finish that I plan to use for some flies for the coast. I like the black nickel versions, but they tend to rust too quickly in saltwater.  

 

I have played with tube flies a little and that's likely the next direction that I'll go with making larger poppers. Then I can use other styles of hooks. 

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2 hours ago, Jim H said:

I do tie some flies on that type of hook, but have not done it with poppers. The shank lengths are usually too short for one reason. However, I feel that anything is possible. 

 

I just got 100 Mustad Ultra Points in a size 1 and with a tinned finish that I plan to use for some flies for the coast. I like the black nickel versions, but they tend to rust too quickly in saltwater.  

 

I have played with tube flies a little and that's likely the next direction that I'll go with making larger poppers. Then I can use other styles of hooks. 

I’ll throw this out as it seems that It could give you something similar to a tube fly, but things like bucktail deceivers, hollows, and profile-based flies work perfectly when you attach a foam cylinder above them, either right on the fly or with a stopper knot a few inches above. I’ve effectively created some 12-14” poppers with a beast and a foam cylinder that’s maybe an inch in diameter. Again, another idea first done by Bob Popovics

Edited by Ftyer

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1 hour ago, Ftyer said:

I’ll throw this out as it seems that It could give you something similar to a tube fly, but things like bucktail deceivers, hollows, and profile-based flies work perfectly when you attach a foam cylinder above them, either right on the fly or with a stopper knot a few inches above. I’ve effectively created some 12-14” poppers with a beast and a foam cylinder that’s maybe an inch in diameter. Again, another idea first done by Bob Popovics

Yes, I'm well aware of doing that, but thanks for mentioning it. Bangers are supposed to be made in a similar manner, but I think a lot of folks attach the heads instead of as you've mentioned. I've made them both ways. This also something that I should do more of for making those bigger surface flies. 

 

I have BobPop's books! Some great stuff in them! :D

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Make your own.Pick up a lobster buoy.I know I know...………..Legally on the beach you can't touch them.So,go to a marine store and buy one for less than $8 or so.Sponge-X is a good one.Some are made with different colored foam inside the outer covering.Colors….red,blue,orange,yellow,tan,& white.

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I've been working on some poppers, tweaking a salt water pattern I learned last spring.  This one's tied on a 4/0 hook and it's 4 inches or so long.  Haven't had a chance to test it, should make a fair amount of noise/commotion.   The the last one I tied at least 15 years ago when I was on a "tie" a fly that looks like my favorite lures, in this case, a Zara Spook.  It was too heavy to toss with my 8 wgt, so it never really got fished.  I would definitely reconsider my choice of hooks if I tied one up today.

 

 

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When you use those green foam heads are they as durable as the solid/hard foam bodies?  I have seen the double head style and have always wandered if they are good or just a gimmick. 

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