Sweetwater

ABU question

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35 posts in this topic

4 hours ago, R.R. Bridge Fisher said:

I just feel like i could use that little "extra" on my abu's, i have a lot of upgrades it em.....

what kind of oil do you use?

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4 hours ago, R.R. Bridge Fisher said:

Tsi 301 spray 

Hot sauce red

Is there a better approach? 

Thanks

I don't know if it's better, but i've never used those products. For many years i've used only valve oil. The viscosity of valve oil is like that of water. Iuse this oil in my reel bearings, once cleaned. 

One more thing I do with L/W reels. I always clean and polish the inside of the line carriage and make sure that worm gear is smooth. I also put a light coating on the worm cover so the line carriage sails over the cover. I always make sure the slot where the line guide fits, on the cross bar is cleaned too. I put a drop of oil in that slot This oil is fast and not as apt to have dirt and dust collect as other thicker oils.

:howdy:

Edited by jimmy z

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To my knowledge, all my reels have been stock. I have bought some in the bst forum that may have been upgraded prior to me getting them.

 

Basically, I am doing the same thing Jimmy is. 
 

My "secret" is oil. I use a vaseline-mineral oil blend on the gears and a product called GetSome on my bearings and level wind. The bigger secret is making sure I have gotten my bearings completely clean. I may soak them for three or four days until I get all the plaque and gumballs out of them. 
 

I also pay close attention to my level wind and follow the same protocol Jimmy does. If there was a single upgrade I would actually do to

my reels, it would be a ceramic level wind and pawl. 
 

A note about bearings: I, too, look at the ABEC 5 and 7 bearings and wonder if they wouldn't help me. Years ago I went to a bearing shop and talked to the old man who owned the business. His opinion was that high grade bearings only improve performance at speeds that we can't get our reels to. As I thought about it, I realized that I had started out using a fixed spool 5000 with bushings and really haven't gained much distance since I have moved on to better reels. Truthfully, I can credit almost all of my distance gains on longer rods, improved casting technique (still poor) and better attention to maintenance. I still look at them and wonder, though, and understand why someone else may get them. 

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It is a couple of weeks before I will get this together. I have to rebuild

my Lami and wait for the small bait season to pass. I will probably have it together by mid-March and will report back on my experiences with the brake blocks. 

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2 hours ago, jimmy z said:

I don't know if it's better, but i've never used those products. For many years i've used only valve oil. The viscosity of valve oil is like that of water. Iuse this oil in my reel bearings, once cleaned. 

One more thing I do with L/W reels. I always clean and polish the inside of the line carriage and make sure that worm gear is smooth. I also put a light coating on the worm cover so the line carriage sails over the cover. I always make sure the slot where the line guide fits, on the cross bar is cleaned too. I put a drop of oil in that slot This oil is fast and not as apt to have dirt and dust collect as other thicker oils.

:howdy:

Thank you for that information. 

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6 hours ago, jimmy z said:

I don't know if it's better, but i've never used those products. For many years i've used only valve oil. The viscosity of valve oil is like that of water. Iuse this oil in my reel bearings, once cleaned. 

One more thing I do with L/W reels. I always clean and polish the inside of the line carriage and make sure that worm gear is smooth. I also put a light coating on the worm cover so the line carriage sails over the cover. I always make sure the slot where the line guide fits, on the cross bar is cleaned too. I put a drop of oil in that slot This oil is fast and not as apt to have dirt and dust collect as other thicker oils.

:howdy:

Any recommendations on cleaning inside of the slot where line guide fits in and inside the line carrige?

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On 2/10/2020 at 3:33 PM, Sweetwater said:

So I got another pro racket today and despite having had a bunch of Ambassadeurs over the years, this is my first one with a six pin centrifugal brake. 

 

With the two pin versions, I I just take the blocks off altogether and replace them if I sell or give away the reel. Has anyone done this with the 6 pin version? I'm pretty sure I will be fine, but there is always the chance that there is a trick I don't know about. 
 

 

Dammmm sorry sweetwater didn't mean to derail your thread, but i am going to pull the brakes off my 6000 and go thru it after reading your post.....

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Mechanical brake.You have to be kidding. There is no real mechanical brake. You need end float.

Too fast a reel can be a nightmare to control

You could try dialing out the mags and experiment with the number and sIzes of the blocks and also the thickness  of your bearing oil.

 

Level wind mechs don’t make for improved control.

 

Mike

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5 hours ago, R.R. Bridge Fisher said:

Any recommendations on cleaning inside of the slot where line guide fits in and inside the line carrige?

lighter fluid will get rid of old grease and oil. The end of a paper clip with a small bit of tissue or cotton from a swab. Just make sure it's free and clear of all residue.

Many don't realize that all the components of a level wind, the idler gear, the gear on the worm, the worm gear shaft end, the pawl and the carriage have to be maintained too. That apparatus can really inhibit the distance of a cast. They should all move with the speed of the cast not slow it down.

  

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2 hours ago, Mike Oliver said:

Mechanical brake.You have to be kidding. There is no real mechanical brake. You need end float.

Too fast a reel can be a nightmare to control

You could try dialing out the mags and experiment with the number and sIzes of the blocks and also the thickness  of your bearing oil.

 

Level wind mechs don’t make for improved control.

 

Mike

Hey Mike! You do realize that we have already covered light oil and are discussing removing the brakes altogether? 
 

While I never made it clear, I am not trying to throw 150 g down a fairway. I am throwing low velocity lures on rods that prefer more mass. For that I need my reel tuned differently so that my spool doesn't push line at the relatively slow lure. 
 

Towards that end, I want the starting inertia of my reel to be as close as possible to the moving inertia so that the line is drawn consistently from the spool across the arc of my cast. My primary brake is my thumb and with this system, all I need to do is finesse the spool to keep the fluff down because all my speeds are kept constant. 

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Hi Sweetwater. Yep aware of the oil and that you want to take out the blocks.

Experimenting with different oils should help. Very thin oils and no blocks normally spells disaster.

 

What you are attempting is pretty difficult. Tough even when rod is matched well to casting load.

In tournaments over here some of the guys will go for broke on one cast and try to get a huge cast away with a minimally controlled reel. One tiny block and thin oil. If cast  is perfect they might get away with it.

You must have a very well educated thumb. For most of us use of a thumb on a big cast screws it up. You must have a very smooth cast to.
Hope you find a consistent solution.

 

Mikr

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1 hour ago, jimmy z said:

lighter fluid will get rid of old grease and oil. The end of a paper clip with a small bit of tissue or cotton from a swab. Just make sure it's free and clear of all residue.

Many don't realize that all the components of a level wind, the idler gear, the gear on the worm, the worm gear shaft end, the pawl and the carriage have to be maintained too. That apparatus can really inhibit the distance of a cast. They should all move with the speed of the cast not slow it down.

  

Yes. This is very good. When starting on older bearings, you gotta soak them for a while. If you've got gummy oil in there, it will soften and run real good ten minutes into the soak, but won't be fully removed and will gum back up again when the petroleum esters evaporate. Get those bearings where  they sound metal, get up and go, and still sound metal as they slow down. Any hitches or starts and back in the solvent they go. 
 

I don't go under the right sideplate of my Rockets that often unless I have a reason, but I take my level wind apart every two or three trips. Pay attention to the teflon bushings, which are dirt traps. The level wind clears itself to some extent, but those bushings don't have the luxury. 

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10 mins ago, Mike Oliver said:

Hi Sweetwater. Yep aware of the oil and that you want to take out the blocks.

Experimenting with different oils should help. Very thin oils and no blocks normally spells disaster.

 

What you are attempting is pretty difficult. Tough even when rod is matched well to casting load.

In tournaments over here some of the guys will go for broke on one cast and try to get a huge cast away with a minimally controlled reel. One tiny block and thin oil. If cast  is perfect they might get away with it.

You must have a very well educated thumb. For most of us use of a thumb on a big cast screws it up. You must have a very smooth cast to.
Hope you find a consistent solution.

 

Mikr

As far as answering my original question, I will just have to try for myself. I thought we put together a pretty informative thread, thanks to jimmy, who knows waaay more than my 35 years of playing (am I finally at half his experience?). 
 

We have a classic English day coming on Tuesday- cool, cloudy and rainy, so, of course, we will go striper fishing. It is our first trip of the season, and if works out, we will find pods of early males to about 15 pounds. They will be keying on small bait, so the order of the day will be 3-4" topwaters and 3/8-1/2 oz bucktails. I won't need the Rocket for that. 
 

I will use a rod that I built, and it will be the inaugural trip for the rod, so it would have been likely that you would have floated through my mind as I fished as I contemplated the influences that got me to that point. Brandon, Billy, John and you all fish with me regularly. Now that you've popped up on this thread, it is certain you will join me. 

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