jason colby

Painting Lead Jigs

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I have obtained a few unpainted lead jigs and would like to paint them with a "durable finish" without spending too much time on the project.

Would someone here suggest the brand/product I should use and what kind of prep to the metal I need so the stuff adheres well?

 

Thank you!

jigch.JPG

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Capt,

 

You can clean the jig up with wire mesh and use a couple of coats of spray paint then a clear acrylic. You will have to do it again once the jig gets beaten up thus making it like new. The alternative is powder paint that is heat reactive...take care not to over heat and melt the lead. I use Pro Tec for bucktail jigs.

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I'm planning to do something similar in the next few weeks.  Clean them with 409 or simple green, then hit them with a scuff pad, wipe with acetone, primer spray, spray the finish colors then use some 2-part System Three for the "armor" coat.

 

I've tried spraying lead in the past and learned that using primer saves me a lot of time with finish colors.  I coat of finish (max 2) does it with primer.  W/o primer, 3 coats minimum.

 

I haven't used the Sys 3 yet, but I coated a couple of plugs last summer with 2-part Devcon epoxy and it worked very well.  I don't have a spinner, so I just brushed on a light coat, hung it vertically for an hour, then flipped it.  I had one small drip on the tail of the plug, which didn't matter a bit to me.

 

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9 mins ago, hobobob said:

Solid color = powder paint, baked in cheap old toaster oven.

 

Flash = prism tape + clear heatshrink or epoxy coating.

Good idea on the clear heatshrink.  Is that available at HD/Lowes?

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2 mins ago, Southcoastphil said:

Good idea on the clear heatshrink.  Is that available at HD/Lowes?

Ebay. HD / lowes charge astronomical price on these items. 

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A simple way that I paint bare jigs is to just dip then in a small can of Rustoleum Enamel and hang on a wire to drip and dry. Only takes a couple seconds and gives a pretty thick and durable finish. 

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I pour a good bit, and when I paint, I use powder coat paint. If I want to really add extra durability I coat with epoxy too. I've used various paints on lead jigs, and they all can work. 

 

Really depends on how durable you want and how much you're willing to spend. 

 

Powder paints are likely the most durable finish you'll find now, but they're made to adhere to the metal and cure at a specific temperature of the metal. The metal should be as clean as is possible, so on lead, a good wire bushing with a brass wire brush will clean them up. I usually dip in acetone to be sure any oil is removed too, but I'm often painting what I had just poured. A lot of folks simply heat and never really check the temperature when they use powder. That can work, but doesn't really take advantage of the potential durability. However, they aren't indestructible either not matter how you do it. Another issue with powders is they tend to absorb moisture, so they have to be kept sealed and away from heat. Mositure makes the coating too thick and that causes problems.

 

I paint eyes on some jigs painted with powder coat, with enamel paints. Enamel works as well as anything on the powder coated jigs. They'll still chip or scratch off, but a minor problem.

 

Vinyl Paint is likely the next most durable, and can be applied as easily as dipping into the jar of paint and let then hang to let the solvents cure out of the paint. The only cleaning needed would again a good wire brushing and a rinse in acetone. The solvent in vinyl paint is nasty to breath, so care should be taken when using it in any confined area. Good ventilation should be a priority. A Respirator with the proper filter type is a good idea too. You can't mix vinyl paints with other types of paints. So if you use vinyl, use only vinyl. 

 

Enamels have been used on various lead items for years. They still work fine, but are not very durable, even with a clear coat, or epoxy. Etching type primers can help, but then you start to get into more expense for painting that will still not be as durable as Vinyl or powder coating. 

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After you clean it,heat with a heat gun then dip in powder coating then cure in toaster over for 20-25 minutes.  Will still eventually chip from bouncing bottom. 

Screenshot_20200121-053830_Gallery.jpg

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Some of the pains today already have the primer in it and in some cases work fine . Several light coats  A fine wire brush on a wheel will clean it up nice enough to dip and let drip dry. After it sets up good a clear coat of hard as nails can add a little more protection for the toothy fish . Then again simply buff them up and leave natural You could bring some over and have a sharing party and leave with some old time heads that you will love , that I am sure to catch both tog and sea bass, bass, blue fish and even scup of good size.

Then again you could spend some money and buy them :howdy:

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Therer is a liquid vinyl coating that works pretty good.  Comes in a few basic colors.  I coated a bunch of jigs a few years back and was pretty satisfied with the results.  It held up pretty good.  I forget the brand name but I'm sure you can look it up easily.

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Thank you all for the ideas! 

 

I see that no matter what I do I need to start with the wire brush/acetone treatment for steps one and two. From there I'll try a couple with a (white?) powder coat base and then I guess I can finish off with an acrylic to make a colored pattern and eyes. 

Anyone have thoughts on finishing all that with a coat of clear epoxy?

How durable is that compared to "Hard as Nails"?

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