vinnyb

Yami F90 power trim

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Hi all. My 2006 F90’s power trim/tilt began to act up about midway thru this past season. Lowering was fine (due to gravity) but struggled lifting up. Interestingly it worked better after running the motor for awhile - not sure why. Anyway I limped thru the season with it & after hauling last weekend I topped off the fluid (it was a bit low) & bled per the instructions in the service manual. It works better now but still not what it should be. Still seems to be laboring a bit & the sound isn’t right. What’s my next move? A new pt&t assembly is $1600 bucks - not exactly cheap ;-). Thanks for looking!

Edited by vinnyb

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IF you can get the set screws that seal the pistons off, you might want to replace the gaskets there.  Other than that and what you've done, I've got nothing else...

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Have you seen an oil slick at all?

 

I'm thinking you may need to replace the seals on the rams if your fluid was low..  Pretty simple and cheap , you will need a spanner wrench.  The caps can sometimes be a biatch to get moving, but all in all pretty simple job.

 

Rareley, very rarely does one need a whole unit.  And Yam, like all things japanese, has pretty good electronics, I doubt the t/t motor is the issue.

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4 mins ago, makorider said:

Have you seen an oil slick at all?

I do vaguely remember seeing a slick early in the season. But even with a bad deal, wouldn’t it function properly after just being topped off & bled?

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9 mins ago, makorider said:

Have you seen an oil slick at all?

 

I'm thinking you may need to replace the seals on the rams if your fluid was low..  Pretty simple and cheap , you will need a spanner wrench.  The caps can sometimes be a biatch to get moving, but all in all pretty simple job.

 

Rareley, very rarely does one need a whole unit.  And Yam, like all things japanese, has pretty good electronics, I doubt the t/t motor is the issue.

Thank you I was trying to say the same thing, but in horribly ignorant terminology... 

1 min ago, vinnyb said:

I do vaguely remember seeing a slick early in the season. But even with a bad deal, wouldn’t it function properly after just being topped off & bled?

If will continue to leak so you'll be playing this game constantly.  I'd jump on this ASAP as those caps that secure the seals are a BEAR.  The boat yard couldn't get one of mine off (previous owner had boat unused for 3 years so corrosion was bad) so I told them to go with a non-Yammi t/t unit which lasted just after the 1 year warranty was up.  Then I finally gave up and put a Yammi one on, ouch, but it did the job.  As part of winterization after that fiasco, I made sure I worked those caps just to make sure they'd never lock up again.  

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1 hour ago, Roccus7 said:

Thank you I was trying to say the same thing, but in horribly ignorant terminology... 

If will continue to leak so you'll be playing this game constantly.  I'd jump on this ASAP as those caps that secure the seals are a BEAR.  The boat yard couldn't get one of mine off (previous owner had boat unused for 3 years so corrosion was bad) so I told them to go with a non-Yammi t/t unit which lasted just after the 1 year warranty was up.  Then I finally gave up and put a Yammi one on, ouch, but it did the job.  As part of winterization after that fiasco, I made sure I worked those caps just to make sure they'd never lock up again.  

Oh...they'll come off, its a question of if you can get it off and reuse them.  I do remember using a chisel at one point and ordering new ones.

 

1 hour ago, vinnyb said:

I do vaguely remember seeing a slick early in the season. But even with a bad deal, wouldn’t it function properly after just being topped off & bled?

eh you would like to think so but if they're losing pressure or sucking air you will probably notice something isnt right

Edited by makorider

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Before changing the seals .check and see if any nics, scratches etc are on the rams .if so replacing the seal will do nothing since the rams have scar and will  tear the seals again. If you plan on repairing you need to flush all water out before replacin that seal so you might have to remove the whole tt to flush out. 

 

First  you need to refill the tt  after it sits and settles .when you let it sit the air settles around . This is how you will bleed the air out. Fill it and leave it up and sit for a few and do it again but leave it down .keep doin this over and over you will eventually  get the air out  .very tedious..... leave cap  on but loose so extra fluid can escape. 

 

Btw send me a pm if you want a used tt unit. I think I have one. 

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38 mins ago, 757saltwater said:

If you plan on repairing you need to flush all water out before replacin that seal so you might have to remove the whole tt to flush out. 

Flush all water out of where?

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Update:

I went ahead & tackled this project over the past few days. My F90 has the power trim & tilt pistons housed in the same cylinder (see pictures below).  In total I replaced 11 seals, 9 of which are located inside the cylinder & 1 each for the reservoir cap & manual release screw. The main caps came off without tremendous effort so I got lucky there. I was able to rent the tool from my local marine supply (bottom of second pic). 
 

BC8ADB35-C726-41B5-AD0D-9EDA9155EACC.jpeg

52133E3D-52D1-449C-B2DC-BB4389A7F69B.jpeg
 

These are the 9 internal seals I replaced. I needed to destroy the outer dust seal (bottom) to get it out. 
 

3A06C0C1-1A38-45D6-9070-DE7960EF0F0C.jpeg.67e45add6d4c834d05b4564aaa9976db.jpeg

 

After reassembling everything, adding hydraulic fluid & bleeding, the unit seems to be working like new. All told, not an extremely difficult job but there’s definitely a learning curve. 
 

Thanks to everyone for their comments & help - it’s greatly appreciated!

Edited by vinnyb

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OK so the saga continues on my power trim & tilt.  I thought I had this issue resolved with the seal replacement, but it persists.  Essentially, it still struggles to raise the engine - there are no issues with lowering.  Once the engine has been running for some time, it works better but that initial "cold" lift prior to starting, it struggles.  This would lead me to believe it's more of an electrical issue with the power trim motor. What say you? The boat is in the water for the season now (hopefully it doesn't completely crap out) so this repair wouldn't be performed until it's hauled in December. 

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Well my luck ran out earlier this week - the power trim/tilt chit the bed on me during a trip.  I'll spare you all the circus involved in manually lifting the motor ;-).  Bottom line - the power trim/tilt motor was the culprit all along & finally stopped working completely.  When I hit the switch, I could hear the solenoid click but that was it.  A meter revealed 12v power to the motor leads when the switch was activated, which confirmed that the motor needed replacing.  A PIA to haul the boat, perform the repair & relaunch but the end result is a power trim/tilt unit that's performing like new.

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