Spigola

Split rings on J8's

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Does anyone know of a split ring that can be attached to the front of a Charley Graves J8 and will not get deformed? 

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Posted (edited)

There was a thread a while back that showed you how to turn the split ring inside out and back again. I put Rasco 7h rings on all my Charlie graves using that technique. It works very well!

Post #13 in this thread!  http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/topic/551103-charlie-graves/?hl=%2Bturn+%2Bsplit+%2Bring+%2Binside#entry8752219

Marc

Edited by mml4

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Posted (edited)

11 hours ago, Spigola said:

Does anyone know of a split ring that can be attached to the front of a Charley Graves J8 and will not get deformed? 

I have tried this method with small lock washers, split rings and jump rings, all of which were soldered closed afterwards. Most any suitably sized split ring can be used and "rolled" closed. In my opinion, despite reading much to the contrary online, the addition creates an additional pivot point and changes the action of the tin I am not saying it will not catch or swim but I am saying that it will not catch or swim the same as without the inclusion of the split ring. I would test this for myself before investing to heavily in this method. 

Edited by SC

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18 mins ago, SC said:

I have tried this method with small lock washers, split rings and jump rings, all of which were soldered closed afterwards. Most any suitably sized split ring can be used and "rolled" closed. In my opinion, despite reading much to the contrary online, the addition creates an additional pivot point and changes the action of the tin I am not saying it will not catch or swim but I am saying that it will not catch or swim the same as without the inclusion of the split ring. I would test this for myself before investing to heavily in this method. 

Curious as to what changes you have observed after adding a split ring? I must admit I never thought to test them with the ring but have caught countless Bass and Blues with Charlie Graves equipped with splits.

Thanks,

Marc

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Posted (edited)

4 hours ago, mml4 said:

Curious as to what changes you have observed after adding a split ring? I must admit I never thought to test them with the ring but have caught countless Bass and Blues with Charlie Graves equipped with splits.

Thanks,

Marc

I have noticed a similar change not only with metal lures but with any and every swimming type lure. I know anything and everything will catch and a simple self administered test will show you the difference for yourself. Basically the tin single-pivots on a snap with traditional rigging with the swimming pattern determined by the weight, density of materials used, keel and flats (wings) and speed of retrieve and surf conditions but (in my opinion) the inclusion of a secondary pivot point changes the equation because now the snap pivots on the split ring and the split ring pivots on the tin at the same time so the cadence of the action is interrupted by the secondary pivot point. Again I am not saying it will not swim, work or catch but am saying the action will not be the same with both rigging styles because it can not, the equation has been altered. I have many other examples  using common plugs but realize two things - most will disagree and most will disagree without checking for themselves first. I believe this is why most companies recommend a snap or loop knot when using a minnow type swimmer, for example, because the plug is free to pivot and why tying direct (without a loop knot) often produces a different result as the pivot equation has been altered. I believe this is a main reason why someone is "hot" on a given night or tide when most would swear they are using the same lure. May be the same lure but the action will not be the same if the rigging is different. Admittedly, again in my opinion, this is not always an important consideration but can be the difference between catching and casting practice. 

Edited by SC

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9 mins ago, SC said:

I have noticed a similar change not only with metal lures but with any and every swimming type lure. I know anything and everything will catch and a simple self administered test will show you the difference for yourself. Basically the tin single-pivots on a snap with traditional rigging with the swimming pattern determined by the weight, density of materials used, keel and flats (wings) and speed of retrieve and surf conditions but (in my opinion) the inclusion of a secondary pivot point changes the equation because now the snap pivots on the split ring and the split ring pivots on the tin at the same time so the cadence of the action is interrupted by the secondary pivot point. Again I am not saying it will not swim or work catch but am saying the action will not be the same with both rigging styles because it can not, the equation has been altered. I have many other examples  using common plugs but realize two things - most will disagree and most will disagree without checking for themselves first. This is why most companies recommend a snap or loop knot when using a minnow type swimmer, for example, because the plug is free to pivot and why tying direct (without a loop knot) often produces a different result as the pivot equation has been altered. I believe this is a main reason why someone is "hot" on a given night or tide when most would swear they are using the same lure. May be the same lure but the action will not be the same if the rigging is different. Admittedly, again in my opinion, this is not always an important consideration but can be the difference between catching and casting practice. 

Thanks, I will be testing this winter.

Marc

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Not very hard to figure out any change in attachment changes action.....throw a sp tied direct, TA, swivel to split ring, and loop knot. I add a split ring and then loop knot on the sinking ones. Metal, I don't think it's nearly as much of a difference.

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