Striper46

Quality Trolling Motor for Mirage Drive

25 posts in this topic

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when i was looking at getting a motor there were really only 3 options, bixpy, torqeedo, or diy.  the 2 mass produced motors are an incredible waste of $$ imo. once you realize you want to diy, then you start to get into the options of mirage drive, or side mount in a rod holder, or drop off the back.  then when you decide on that you can choose the motor model.  basically, the watersnake in the mirage drive is the best and most simple way to do it imo.  im not looking to go anywhere too fast, or cover 25 miles.  i just want to be lazy and fish some days without having to exert any energy.  i dont kayak for the exercise lol

 

i had my watersnake open once a while ago, when i was cutting the shaft i nicked the wires, bad.  so i opened the whole thing to see how it was wired (i swear im a reincarnated failed engineer or something because i take things apart i have no business taking apart just to put back together, a lot) and was kind of suprised its all water proofed with just 2 long screws and o rings.  i put some light grease on my o rings before putting it all back together, some grease squeezed out, i dried it all then put goop over where everything comes together.  anyway, seeing the condition of your motor of course made me decide to open a screw on mine and everything looks to be in GREAT condition.  1 thing i noticed on yours but cant tell because i cant see the heads of the long bolts, are you missing the washer?  the washer is supposed to go over the really small oring to seal the shaft of the bolt.

20190815_092705.jpg

20190815_092855.jpg

Edited by gobigblue

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Posted (edited) · Report post

46 mins ago, gobigblue said:

when i was looking at getting a motor there were really only 3 options, bixpy, torqeedo, or diy.  the 2 mass produced motors are an incredible waste of $$ imo. once you realize you want to diy, then you start to get into the options of mirage drive, or side mount in a rod holder, or drop off the back.  then when you decide on that you can choose the motor model.  basically, the watersnake in the mirage drive is the best and most simple way to do it imo.  im not looking to go anywhere too fast, or cover 25 miles.  i just want to be lazy and fish some days without having to exert any energy.  i dont kayak for the exercise lol

 

i had my watersnake open once a while ago, when i was cutting the shaft i nicked the wires, bad.  so i opened the whole thing to see how it was wired (i swear im a reincarnated failed engineer or something because i take things apart i have no business taking apart just to put back together, a lot) and was kind of suprised its all water proofed with just 2 long screws and o rings.  i put some light grease on my o rings before putting it all back together, some grease squeezed out, i dried it all then put goop over where everything comes together.  anyway, seeing the condition of your motor of course made me decide to open a screw on mine and everything looks to be in GREAT condition.  1 thing i noticed on yours but cant tell because i cant see the heads of the long bolts, are you missing the washer?  the washer is supposed to go over the really small oring to seal the shaft of the bolt.

20190815_092705.jpg

20190815_092855.jpg

good stuff but don't forget to seal the shaft entrance inside the head unit.Yea i'll probably end up buying another watersnake since there's pretty much no other option and waterproofing the **** out of it, remove all the stock switches and add a pwm before it even looks at the water lol

 

yea the washers where on the screws.

Edited by Striper46

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Posted (edited) · Report post

23 mins ago, Striper46 said:

good stuff but don't forget to seal the shaft entrance inside the head unit.Yea i'll probably end up buying another watersnake since there's pretty much no other option and waterproofing the **** out of it, remove all the stock switches and add a pwm before it even looks at the water lol

 

yea the washers where on the screws.

i jammed a piece of rubber in that shaft as best i could wrapped around the wires.  between that, and waterproofing inside and outside all the plastic connections fingers crossed ill be ok for awhile.  your rusted motor even inspired me to hot glue over the 4 screws and handle release knob.  Its not pretty but ill take function over form all day.  ill probably re open the whole thing again for no reason this winter.  Only thing left i want to try and find a nice 90° rubber bend for the power.

 

20190815_104152.jpg

Edited by gobigblue

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27 mins ago, gobigblue said:

i jammed a piece of rubber in that shaft as best i could wrapped around the wires.  between that, and waterproofing inside and outside all the plastic connections fingers crossed ill be ok for awhile.  your rusted motor even inspired me to hot glue over the 4 screws and handle release knob.  Its not pretty but ill take function over form all day.  ill probably re open the whole thing again for no reason this winter.  Only thing left i want to try and find a nice 90° rubber bend for the power.

 

20190815_104152.jpg

yea not pretty but absolutely necessary. I'm making a new face plate for when i remove the stock switches and add a pwm dial. this will not be pretty either lol

Edited by Striper46

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Like I wrote in me seminal posts, the shaft HAS to be sealed. Shove in a piece of (puck-shaped with radial cut for wires) foam, then put good sealant (marine goop etc) on top of that. Otherwise, random drop or a turtle will kill it more or less instantly.

 

Very unlikely water got in through the seals, industry had figured out how to seal these a long time ago. 99.9%  these are vacuum tested at the factory, takes seconds (same way they test intake/exhaust valves for seal after rebuild etc).

 

I'd be still on my original watersnake, pushing 6 years of service,  if not for unfortunate shaft shearing off, running into a submerged rock in WLIS. She went for a swim few times ... never any issues.

 

Through-MD-placement has a number of benefits. Ez to untangle when a fishing line wraps around the shaft. Incredible maneuverability - as prop throws water back at the rudder, meaning rudder is immediately effective even when boat is not yet moving. 

 

Stealth is another benefit . 

 

Only drawback - cant use both the motor and the MD at the same time. 

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3 mins ago, r111 said:

Like I wrote in me seminal posts, the shaft HAS to be sealed. Shove in a piece of (puck-shaped with radial cut for wires) foam, then put good sealant (marine goop etc) on top of that. Otherwise, random drop or a turtle will kill it more or less instantly.

 

Very unlikely water got in through the seals, industry had figured out how to seal these a long time ago. 99.9%  these are vacuum tested at the factory, takes seconds (same way they test intake/exhaust valves for seal after rebuild etc).

 

I'd be still on my original watersnake, pushing 6 years of service,  if not for unfortunate shaft shearing off, running into a submerged rock in WLIS. She went for a swim few times ... never any issues.

 

Through-MD-placement has a number of benefits. Ez to untangle when a fishing line wraps around the shaft. Incredible maneuverability - as prop throws water back at the rudder, meaning rudder is immediately effective even when boat is not yet moving. 

 

Stealth is another benefit . 

 

Only drawback - cant use both the motor and the MD at the same time. 

lol lesson learned but never saw anything from you before i built it. I'm 100% clear on how to build a new one!! lol

 

Another great thing about a motor in the mirage drive; there is no consistent adjustment of the rudder like you need to do with actual mirage drive.

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I'm happy to say Jarvis is sending me a brand new motor,  this product may not be the best but their customer service is top notch!

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I always have a spare, for JIC - keep it untouched. Could be having a season of a lifetime and dont want random accident ruin my experience :)

 

Takes 30 mins to chop down the shaft, seal it and solder the leads.

 

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On 8/15/2019 at 11:30 AM, r111 said:

Like I wrote in me seminal posts, the shaft HAS to be sealed. Shove in a piece of (puck-shaped with radial cut for wires) foam, then put good sealant (marine goop etc) on top of that. Otherwise, random drop or a turtle will kill it more or less instantly.

 

Very unlikely water got in through the seals, industry had figured out how to seal these a long time ago. 99.9%  these are vacuum tested at the factory, takes seconds (same way they test intake/exhaust valves for seal after rebuild etc).

 

I'd be still on my original watersnake, pushing 6 years of service,  if not for unfortunate shaft shearing off, running into a submerged rock in WLIS. She went for a swim few times ... never any issues.

 

Through-MD-placement has a number of benefits. Ez to untangle when a fishing line wraps around the shaft. Incredible maneuverability - as prop throws water back at the rudder, meaning rudder is immediately effective even when boat is not yet moving. 

 

Stealth is another benefit . 

 

Only drawback - cant use both the motor and the MD at the same time. 

When I got my new motor I realized that there was an o-ring missing on the old prop shaft so that's how it got in. Actually surprised it lasted as long as it did with w/o it unless it someone how broke and slipped out?

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Like I wrote in me seminal posts, the shaft HAS to be sealed. Shove in a piece of (puck-shaped with radial cut for wires) foam, then put good sealant (marine goop etc) on top of that. Otherwise, random drop or a turtle will kill it more or less instantly.

First thing i thought of when i read this post was a heat shrink cable splitter ........

 

5d63db1e1c4ed_CABLESPLITTER.JPG.ca750dffb10f05e03e1d36425bc101b5.JPG

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