Striper46

Quality Trolling Motor for Mirage Drive

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Anyone know of a good quality diy trolling motor that fits in a hobie mirage drive cassette(not the watersnake or rebranded water snake)? Thx :witty:

Edited by Striper46

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11 hours ago, BillZ said:

Look at the bixpy stuff....

That’s pretty cool, pricey but better then evolve. Not sure I’m crazy about how low it sits under the boat, looks like a good spot for line to get caught on.  Really just looking for a better trolling motor that will fit in the mirage cassette hole. Thx bill!

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I'm guessing your not that thrilled about your water snake set up  :why:

 

Your obviously limited to what fits thru the Md opening so your  bound to a few motor choices ....maybe you need a different approach to your mounting system & abandon the md cassette set up altogether....

 

I'd steer away from those side mount set ups, that to me is just getting something to work for a while, i wouldn't look at that as a permanent set up....

 

Ive seen plenty of impressive stern mounted set ups on Hobies with full trim & speed control all  from the cockpit switching from motor to Md is seamless as they're both available full time.... some guys do both  when in current...

 

 

Tiis is on a pa but its the same concept on the others

5d53fdcb48143_hobietrollingmotor.jpg.94e21241026a834918090853a8abde81.jpg

 

 

That concept alone opens up the field to numerous motor & mounting choices, at that point a Minnkota C30 is a great candidate, cheap & easy to work on, chop the mount & install on the stern, chop the  shaft, re-route the control to the cockpit & your just about done...  plenty of internet pics out there, after you decide to go this route its just a matter of connecting the dots & putting it all together pc x pc..... :)

 

Regards.....

 

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54 mins ago, BillZ said:

I'm guessing your not that thrilled about your water snake set up  :why:

 

Your obviously limited to what fits thru the Md opening so your  bound to a few motor choices ....maybe you need a different approach to your mounting system & abandon the md cassette set up altogether....

 

I'd steer away from those side mount set ups, that to me is just getting something to work for a while, i wouldn't look at that as a permanent set up....

 

Ive seen plenty of impressive stern mounted set ups on Hobies with full trim & speed control all  from the cockpit switching from motor to Md is seamless as they're both available full time.... some guys do both  when in current...

 

 

Tiis is on a pa but its the same concept on the others

5d53fdcb48143_hobietrollingmotor.jpg.94e21241026a834918090853a8abde81.jpg

 

 

That concept alone opens up the field to numerous motor & mounting choices, at that point a Minnkota C30 is a great candidate, cheap & easy to work on, chop the mount & install on the stern, chop the  shaft, re-route the control to the cockpit & your just about done...  plenty of internet pics out there, after you decide to go this route its just a matter of connecting the dots & putting it all together pc x pc..... :)

 

Regards.....

 

Yea the pos is on the fritz again lol not sure whats up with it, haven't really checked it out yet. I think its a loose connection somewhere cause it works if you move it around a little, I think its actually in the motor, prop sounds like **** in a upright position but if you hold it side ways it sounds good.  see link below

 

Not really crazy about the transom mounts mainly because of transporting, loading and unload my kayak. Are they stationary or removable(on/off every time)? Also, do they use them to steer?

 

Was actually looking at the C30 to build for the mirage drive but wasn't sure if it fits or not.

 

 

439EF829-6CF7-4AF9-946D-6E50B2DE5DDB.MOV

Edited by Striper46

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Been using watersnake through MD opening for 5 years now, on me PA14.

0 issues, most highly recommended. $120.  Puzzled looks I got from folx that are perplexed just what is moving me boat -  priceless.

 

ONLY inexpensive motor that fits through MD w/o having to do any complicated turning/angling/shaft unlocking. Very reliable and 0 maintenance.

 

Should you hit an obstacle while steaming at full speed, the shaft will shear off, 0 damage to the kayak (dont ask how I know). That will nick you for whopping $120.

 

Pair the motor with U1-12RT lifepo4 and never look back

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51 mins ago, Striper46 said:

Not really crazy about the transom mounts mainly because of transporting, loading and unload my kayak. Are they stationary or removable(on/off every time)? Also, do they use them to steer?

Only you know what you want, or don’t want…. can’t comment on the water snake motor but a lot of guys use them & seem to be pretty happy with it..

 

As for the C30 set up, yes, the mount stays on the boat but the motor is removed each time, takes about 3 seconds to pull the pin & another 5 seconds to lift it out of the mount & re-install the pin in the mount.

 

MOUNT.jpg.1932a667e4f46009a1a0a12aff241a38.jpg

 

I’ve seen the steering both ways, fixed & foot pedal controls installed. You’d probably be doing fixed & steer with your rudder… on mine I have foot pedal controls so all that steering is hands free, when rudder controlled, you still need to constantly adjust direction, no big deal, you do that already but I’m just pointing that out…

 

As for trim I designed & built a cable controlled vertical trim (no pulleys) where I have fixed high & low points built in, I can raise the motor vertically & float with motor running in 16” of water or drop it down to about 12” below the hull when in chop to avoid cavitation & anywhere in between those points.

 

 I also have the factory tilt trim controlled thru foot pedals, I pull a cord, push forward with my feet & it tilts upwards….

 

The other thing I have control of is the shaft lock mechanism form the cockpit, I activate it & its locked straight forward, or any direction I choose, until deactivated…. That’s all a little more than you need but I had a few winters worth of nothing to do to come up with this stuff ..lol

 

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53 mins ago, r111 said:

Been using watersnake through MD opening for 5 years now, on me PA14.

0 issues, most highly recommended. $120.  Puzzled looks I got from folx that are perplexed just what is moving me boat -  priceless.

 

ONLY inexpensive motor that fits through MD w/o having to do any complicated turning/angling/shaft unlocking. Very reliable and 0 maintenance.

 

Should you hit an obstacle while steaming at full speed, the shaft will shear off, 0 damage to the kayak (dont ask how I know). That will nick you for whopping $120.

 

Pair the motor with U1-12RT lifepo4 and never look back

I'm very interested in this.   Can you PM me more details about it?

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8 hours ago, GeoffT said:

I'm very interested in this.   Can you PM me more details about it?

I would never recommend it but I think I got a lemon lol , I hear good n terrible things about them. Mine only lasted 2 outings before blowing the switches, I was on my 3rd set of switches n 5 months before it stopped working for good. water got in my motor somehow I guess bad seal. It’s toast now, I have good experience with their customer service but we’ll see what they have to say about this lol

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63AE5603-3392-4EDD-976E-403F467A13EB.jpeg

3BB64556-807F-45CE-AEA0-E09340B6C2E4.jpeg

9AC08843-D276-4FE5-8892-1EB8F714F4CA.jpeg

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E87F7D72-34E7-4386-8C87-D7BBA61B514E.jpeg

FE4D87EA-5EA8-43F1-A815-A6E829FE96B3.jpeg

90D13023-2D09-4084-A876-20FF0648FC5D.jpeg

FD542B15-66F1-482E-91D2-81C1A2172336.jpeg

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Mass produced in China.....:waiting:

Definitely could be the o ring...Could be anything, bad machining, Out of round or warped housings, uneven powder coating could be another thing ...

 

O-ring might have a problem sealing if one (or both) are out of round or warped....

Could be an assembly issue,  Under torquing the screws could be an issue, how did they feel when you took them out? ...having the oing pinched could be another thing, and then again, the issue could be down by the shaft seal.... sucks but it's good you found that now...

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12 hours ago, cheech said:

Looks like a bad 0-ring.

 

10 hours ago, BillZ said:

Mass produced in China.....:waiting:

Definitely could be the o ring...Could be anything, bad machining, Out of round or warped housings, uneven powder coating could be another thing ...

 

O-ring might have a problem sealing if one (or both) are out of round or warped....

Could be an assembly issue,  Under torquing the screws could be an issue, how did they feel when you took them out? ...having the oing pinched could be another thing, and then again, the issue could be down by the shaft seal.... sucks but it's good you found that now...

Its very possible that its an o-ring but after taking it apart i noticed that there is a straight shot for water from the head unit thru the shaft into the motor so if you get water in the head its safe to assume its in the motor as well. for people building these motors i would def waterproof the entrances to the shaft inside the head unit. I would also seal the 2 motor "seals" with goop as well as where the shaft meets the motor and pack the screws and prop shaft with grease. 

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On 8/13/2019 at 7:56 PM, BillZ said:

Look at the bixpy stuff....

kinda wondering if you could hook this motor up to the battery box we have? If so it would cut the price in half. the prop attachment looks very interesting!

Edited by Striper46

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