Thumb-Burner

Adding accessories without inside access

11 posts in this topic

I have an inexpensive sit on top kayak that I'm really enjoying.  It only has one small hatch so not a lot of access to the inside.

 

Any ways to securely mount accessories without inside access to secure a nut?

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There are kayak rivets and well nuts for many applications. With string I have pulled DIY nutted backing plates into inaccessible areas to attach accessories.

D9F4FB61-4293-42B5-B44D-23ADE32E2197.png

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The easiest way is using these 3/16 dia "Bulb Tite" type pop rivets. They will hold quite a lot, I've used them for anchor trolleys. Rubber well nuts work too, but require 2x the size hole for a 3/16 fastener.

 

59b8d4651d11c413ac20382e.jpg

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10 mins ago, gellfex said:

The easiest way is using these 3/16 dia "Bulb Tite" type pop rivets. They will hold quite a lot, I've used them for anchor trolleys. Rubber well nuts work too, but require 2x the size hole for a 3/16 fastener.

 

59b8d4651d11c413ac20382e.jpg

Looks great.  Is a special tool required?

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5 mins ago, Thumb-Burner said:

Looks great.  Is a special tool required?

Standard pop rivet gun, $5 at Harbor Freight if you don't already have one in the garage somewhere.

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8 mins ago, gellfex said:

Standard pop rivet gun, $5 at Harbor Freight if you don't already have one in the garage somewhere.

what size rivets would you recommend.  right now i'm looking to add a cleat or two and a rod holder.. thanks a ton.. I'm not very "handy"

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Hopefully this will be clear enough, it's from McMaster Carr. Use 3/16 diameter.  Most of that hardware is about 1/4" thick, so adding the ~3/16 hull thickness you need 7/16 or .437". I'd go with the longest one at the bottom.
 
97545a050p1s.png?ver=1467803270
 
97545a075c1-b02-digitals.png?ver=1517386
Installed
 

The rivet body deforms into a bulb shape when installed to provide a wide, uniform grip and secure hold when fastening plastic and laminates. Made of aluminum, these rivets are lightweight, nonmagnetic, and have good corrosion resistance. They join material when you only have access to one side. A low-profile domed head creates a finished appearance.

The combined thickness of material must fall within the rivet's material thickness range. Shear strength is the amount of force it takes to break a rivet from the side, and tensile strength is the amount of pull a rivet can withstand without breaking. Joint strength is also affected by rivet spacing and hole size.

A blind rivet tool (sold separately) with a nosepiece that matches the rivet's diameter is required for installation.

For Material Thick. Lg. For Hole Size For Drill
Bit Size
Head
Dia.
Head
Ht.
Shear
Strength, lbs.
Tensile
Strength, lbs.
Material Pkg.
Qty.
  Pkg.
 
3/16" Dia.
0.04"-0.157" 0.72" 0.197"-0.207" No. 4 0.396" 0.08" 170 240 5052 Aluminum 50 97545A055 7.28
0.04"-0.354" 0.92" 0.197"-0.207" No. 4 0.396" 0.08" 170 240 5052 Aluminum 50 97545A065 7.93
0.157"-0.472" 1.07" 0.197"-0.207" No. 4 0.396" 0.08" 170 240 5052 Aluminum 50 97545A075 8.56
0.157"-0.625" 1.2" 0.197"-0.207" No. 4 0.396" 0.08" 170 240 5052 Aluminum 25 97545A085 8.25

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1 hour ago, Thumb-Burner said:

what size rivets would you recommend.  right now i'm looking to add a cleat or two and a rod holder.. thanks a ton.. I'm not very "handy"

Anything that has a counter bored hole isn't a great candidate for a rivet,  you can't get the nose of the rivet gun into the hole to pull on the rivet.

 

Sometimes, depending in the length of the rivet stem,  you can use a spacer something like this.... but the rivet needs to support the thickness of the hull & the remaining thickness of the holder combined.

20190728_213504.jpg.9a8a4e79d63822a7c0a07ee4bf769a89.jpg

 

As cheech suggested,  backing plate pulled up to the holder from behind is the best way to go.....  Holders have 4 holes,  string thru 2 diagonal holes pulled up underneath, install other 2 diagonal hole screws once plate is in place than cut the string & install remaining  2 screws

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If you can put a backing plate in for a rod holder in particular, I'd say its a good idea too. What model is your boat and where do you want to put the rod holder? Pics?

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Gelflex (no put intended) hit the nail on the head. Here is a link to what you need http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/3506-dome-head-tri-fold-rivets-3-16-black I would add a little plop of goop to the hole before you puty the rivet in and then again after you install it and dab some in the hole where the rivet base snapped out. 

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