ermghoti

A n00b rigs a Prowler 13

34 posts in this topic

Starting to accumulate a little bit of water/fishing time. I guess one thing I've learned is I don't have to worry about heat pushing me off the water! Well, I was on a pond, I wouldn't have wanted to have been fighting current, tide, or wind. Still, mid-high 90s, and I got the thing on and off the RAV without too much salty language. Figured out how to adjust the seat right, there is a critical "scootch" step when you first get in, or nothing works at all. The stocker pus a closed cell foam stadium pad seem like they'll suit me fine for now.

 

It's starting to become hardware decision time. I'd like to get gimbal adapters for standard rod holders, looks like the only game in town is Scotty. I also want rod holders in the front of the cockpit, as I much prefer being able to watch the rod tips for evidence of fouling or contact with the bottom. However, the Scotty mounts are too wide to fit on top of the gunwale. The inner horizontal surface is tall enough, but that would probably necessitate the Gearhead adaptors, which seem like they'd add torque to the mount. I don't know if that would be a concern with a flush mount or surface mount plus a backing plate (which I can reach just far enough to accomplish).

 

The Railblazer Side Port would work perfectly, but then I'd have to have RB and Scotty holders for the gimbals and the forward holders, when, really, I could have two and move them around as needed.

 

Also, I'm kicking around the idea of a small outrigger. I don't know why they are shunned, but they seem ideal to plant a tube 'n' worm a foot off the bottom consistently, or drag a jig across the noses of a suspended school. Scotty has an obvious path to a downrigger installation, whereas there would be some hardware shenanigans afoot to use the RB. Or, I could get a gimbal mount for the downrigger, but I think winding around to make adjustments would get old in a hurry.

 

I think I saw a reference to adaptors that allow the use of one company's mount with another's hardware, but I can't track anything like that down.

 

The nifty Humminbird transducer for Ocean Kayak products looks like the way to go, although that eliminates DI and/or SI models. Not a big deal, as I was leaning towards a basic sonar/GPS unit anyway. Helix 5, I guess? I can mount that on the molded in recess, and maybe add a short extender or gearhead. I can put my hands on the ground standing up, but reaching past the end of the cockpit is an ordeal. Otherwise there's the forward cupholder, or I could rig some sort of plate in the center well are, but I'd like to maintain that as a tackle box house.

 

I've searched around and picked up ideas, but if anybody has feedback or photos, I'd be glad for them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good luck with your new ride. The best advice anyone can give you is less is more. Most  kayak anglers have purchased a bunch of stuff they seldom use. Just check the bst forum for evidence of this. The less stuff you bring with the less to clean up and the faster you will get on the water. Also it is easier to transport less stuff . Also easier to keep track of your gear  when you flip. I would concentrate on safety gear and paddle clothing before you  purchase too much hardware. Also a good paddle is the best investment you can make with a paddle kayak. It will increase your range and reduce the strain in your body. You may find  that the stadium pad may throw off your stability in rough conditions. Welcome to the  club.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

2 hours ago, dbjpb said:

Good luck with your new ride. The best advice anyone can give you is less is more. Most  kayak anglers have purchased a bunch of stuff they seldom use. Just check the bst forum for evidence of this. The less stuff you bring with the less to clean up and the faster you will get on the water. Also it is easier to transport less stuff . Also easier to keep track of your gear  when you flip. I would concentrate on safety gear and paddle clothing before you  purchase too much hardware. Also a good paddle is the best investment you can make with a paddle kayak. It will increase your range and reduce the strain in your body. You may find  that the stadium pad may throw off your stability in rough conditions. Welcome to the  club.

Thanks!

 

My first purchases were a paddling/angler's PFD, a whistle, a flag/light, and a Bending Branches Stingray. I'm well stocked on rash guards, I have a neck/face gaiter and a couple of reliable hats (I'm about half Irish, so I burst into flames if I think about direct sunlight for a few seconds), and I found a pair of quick-dry Columbia pants I like. Took that ensemble out yesterday after work, just after peak temperatures, and the heat was nearly a non issue, only had trouble with the PFD. Low 90s is probably my limit unless I'm going to swim a lot.  I'm getting a clip on compass for SHTF, and a handheld VHF in the near future. Possibly a pump, maybe electric, or just possibly just rely on pool noodles in the hull. Definitely safety first.

 

"Less is more" is one reason I'd like to be able to move a couple of rod holders around an extra mount or two, rather than load the thing with holders. The downrigger is certainly questionable/optional/down-the-road. If I can't tether it, fix it, or make it float, it's not going. I'm thinking three rods, max, maybe four, as I have a sabiki rod that I can snap into one of the paddle holders, but otherwise top water trolling, deeper trolling, and maybe a target-of-opportunity lure rigged and ready. I could easily bring one rod if I have an immutable plan in mind, e.g. "tube 'n' worm the flats" or whatever. I'm thinking of velcroing some tackle boxes and a cutting board together so I can stack 2-3 in arms length, and have a work area.

 

Looking for flush mounts as needed to reduce torque on the bases, ass well as to have a cleaner surface when the mounts aren't in use.

 

EDIT: Does anybody use a checklist? I can see a conflict developing between "getting on and off efficiently" and "I lost my roof rack guards driving to work this morning."

Edited by ermghoti

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good luck with the Prowler. Measure 3x, drill once. Rodholders up front take some thought if you want to troll and paddle. Rails offer more mounting options, but are not as rigid as flushmounts.The flexibility of the  gearhead and offsets from Scotty allow for pedal and paddle for trolling. The flushmount round bases sometimes fit better than the rectangular ones. Instead of a checklist a large canvas boat bag that holds ‘everything’ works for me

30643582-E797-45AA-BD6A-7080A264E5D2.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great stuff, Cheech. Do you feel the length/leverage of a Gearhead presents a significant extra risk to pulling apart or dislodging a mount? I absolutely see the attraction in modifying the position to fit current conditions, and had wondered about rails as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, ermghoti said:

I could rig some sort of plate in the center well are, but I'd like to maintain that as a tackle box house.

..

.

Also, I'm kicking around the idea of a small outrigger. I don't know why they are shunned, but they seem ideal to plant a tube 'n' worm a foot off the bottom consistently, or drag a jig across the noses of a suspended school.

Here's a couple of ideas....For tackle, This box fits right behind your seat.....i added the tubes.

 

The top lid has a compartment that's good for storing loose stuff you have lying around.

 

 Holds two plano 23630's  or 3 plano 3620's,  I just swap stuff out depending where I'm going.....

 

Along with a couple of things stored below deck that's all  I take out with me, i just leave it on board in transit.......

box.jpg.c13638c06b705d552d3a5980fddac3f2.jpg.a647795081a2db96462a8ff0f796dba0.jpg

 

Not gonna get into technique specifics but a down rigger for fishing a t&w is way overkill, they work fine without any weight around the boulder fields, better off without xtra weight there but some folks use these keels to adjust running depth & manage line twist,  swap out the weights as needed.....

20190721_162551.jpg.3e513bedf125fa79fe4e5fcd282040b3.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool. I think I've seen that box somewhere before, it does seem pretty snazzy. I just noticed there's an "outrigger" in the OP that should be "downrigger." I have no plans for an outrigger, LOL.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
59 mins ago, ermghoti said:

Great stuff, Cheech. Do you feel the length/leverage of a Gearhead presents a significant extra risk to pulling apart or dislodging a mount? 

The yak will cock, the rod will bend, or the drag will pay out before anything breaks. I’ve used the same two holders for 15 years without incident.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, cheech said:

The yak will cock, the rod will bend, or the drag will pay out before anything breaks. I’ve used the same two holders for 15 years without incident.

That's reassuring. I'll troll for GBFT in Lynn Harbor with confidence. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, ermghoti said:

That's reassuring. I'll troll for GBFT in Lynn Harbor with confidence. ;)

Ha ha, my endorsement stops at YFT

:p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/21/2019 at 10:33 AM, ermghoti said:

I also want rod holders in the front of the cockpit, as I much prefer being able to watch the rod tips for evidence of fouling or contact with the bottom. However, the Scotty mounts are too wide to fit on top of the gunwale. The inner horizontal surface is tall enough, but that would probably necessitate the Gearhead adaptors, which seem like they'd add torque to the mount. I don't know if that would be a concern with a flush mount or surface mount plus a backing plate (which I can reach just far enough to accomplish).

Below is one of my boats with a center mount Scotty, I use a shorter knuckle than Cheech.

 

5c8ab01832402_ADAMKAYAKBLUEtweaked.PNG.d7a93fbd92256fa3d3d9bbc55bc67808.PNG

 

Here's another center configuration where I made a track to hold both the FF & the Scotty. With the dead horizontal track it doesn't need an extra knuckle.

 

5b661a8f15949_riggedSP.JPG.f8e6a568ce6fc885b38f7480732e76cc.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just ordered a substantial, but hopefully not excessive, pile of crap. 2x Scotty rodholders, gearheads, and gimbal mounts. Drift anchor, anchor goodie kit, Yak Attack anchor trolley, and some rivets. Also ordered Marine Goop and well nuts from Amazon. Didn't bite on a fishfinder yet, but I just noticed I have a 20% off coupon for TD, so I might get the Helix 3 GPS version, and a compact handheld GPS with that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

Try to use SS fasteners, nuts and large fender washers on anything that may be subject to heavy torque. The op is paddling, and needs clearance to paddle. If your rigging any pedal boat with front rodholders, rod butt clearance becomes the consideration. 

Edited by cheech

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 mins ago, ermghoti said:

Just ordered a substantial, but hopefully not excessive, pile of crap. 2x Scotty rodholders, gearheads, and gimbal mounts. Drift anchor, anchor goodie kit, Yak Attack anchor trolley, and some rivets. Also ordered Marine Goop and well nuts from Amazon. Didn't bite on a fishfinder yet, but I just noticed I have a 20% off coupon for TD, so I might get the Helix 3 GPS version, and a compact handheld GPS with that.

Cancel the drift anchor if you can, an ikea bag works better and is much easier to handle and store. I have 2 18" anchors that never leave the garage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 mins ago, cheech said:

Try to use SS fasteners, nuts and large fender washers on anything that may be subject to heavy torque. The op is paddling, and needs clearance to paddle. If your rigging any pedal boat with front rodholders, rod butt clearance becomes the consideration. 

Yup, I have backing plates coming for the Scotty bases, I can only reach inside from the bow hatch, but that should take care of the forward rod holders. I think between the height of the 241 mounts, and the angle adjuster on the gear head, I can fit the extension inboard of my feet, and keep the holder pretty close without causing an issue paddling. For the other stuff, if I can't reach t to thread on a nut and washer, I'll rivet or use a well nut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.