Rlan401

Outboard swivel tube

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00 Merc 125 . Steering was tight, disconnected from the cable, and determined the issue is on the swivel tube. The wheel turns freely at the helm and the cable is smooth. Good amount of force required to move the outboard. Knowing the labor and time required to remove and replace the bushings, clean the shaft etc etc...I've been working all morning to free it up. After removing the grease fittiing, 3/4 a can of liquid wrench , a few hours of intermittent heating of the tube with a heat gun (power stripper best I got available where Im at) some compressed air, and countless times pivoting the motor back and forth . . . it has improved significantly. The issue seems to be at the bottom of the tube as no grease is coming out the bottom only the top when new grease is pumped in. Aside from drilling in a second grease fitting towards the bottom anyone got any other tips/tricks/techniques. 

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You will have to actually remove the steering cable from the tube, unfortunately you may have loosen or disconnect the motor from the boat to get it out because it won't bend. Once it is out you can get appropriate sized wire brushes or even brake cylinder hones, use a drill to clean it up with rust penetrate oil. Once that is done clean it out with brake clean and then lube it up before you reassemble. Sorry but that is really the only way to get at it all.

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Been there, done that with a 200 hp Mariner 3 years ago.  PB blaster helps in the top grease fitting,  however heating needs to be done with a propane torch or better.  I got movement of the engine back and forth but it was still tough when hooked up to the steering cable.  I finally drilled a hole above the collar on the bottom of the tube, tapped the hole and put in an additional grease fitting..  After a few pumps I had grease coming out the bottom and top of the tube and steering improved dramatically.  The tube is aluminum, so it is very soft to drill.  If you do this, make sure the drill hole is smaller than the grease fitting, since the aluminum "taps" very easy.  Good luck!   

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You are doing better than I did.  I had this issue a few years ago on a Honda and ended up having to cut female piece off and replace it. This was a pretty big job that included dropping the mid section and working with very small dremmel cut off wheels to get in there.

 

Stonesipher,  You are thinking of the steering tube that the cable goes through. The swivel bracket is the piece of the bracket that the tube from the engine goes through, allowing it to rotate while the transome bracket stays fixed.

 

sam

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12 hours ago, junkfish said:

 I finally drilled a hole above the collar on the bottom of the tube, tapped the hole and put in an additional grease fitting..  

I have a seized 125 at home, Im gonna get 2 fittings and try on that first as it seems to be the only way its gonna free it up. When the tube was toasty and full of PB it was much better, after hooking it back up and sitting over night, its basically back to where it was. 

 

15 hours ago, Stonesipher said:

You will have to actually remove the steering cable from the tube

cable and tilt tube are good, its the veritcal swivel tube the motor pivots on. 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

You have to use high heat on it for a long time .or use two torches.  Grease we'll come back out the zerk fitting if you're not doing that you're not getting it hot enough. Then your just waiting your time. 

Edited by 757saltwater

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Just now, 757saltwater said:

You have to use high heat on it for a long time Grease we'll come back out the zerk fitting if you're not doing that you're not getting it hot enough.

I removed the fitting. When I apply heat, I will get new grease out of the tap but the old stuff doesn't expand that far. Im nervous to use a torch with the amount of solvent ive used over the past 2 days.

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It's ok. I normal use cans of PB blaster.  Spray both the top and bottom swivel points.    If you ever seen the black snake fireworks  for kids that grow like a worm from a peas size .the grease will come out thhe zerk fitting just like them and keep growing.  

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

As much heat that I have used and solvent etc .I have never had a fire that wasnt controllable.  .I have done alot.

Edited by 757saltwater

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25 mins ago, 757saltwater said:

It's ok. I normal use cans of PB blaster.  Spray both the top and bottom swivel points.    If you ever seen the black snake fireworks  for kids that grow like a worm from a peas size .the grease will come out thhe zerk fitting just like them and keep growing.  

 

Does ths zirk have to be in for pressure or do you think it would work similarly with it removed. 

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37 mins ago, 757saltwater said:

the grease will come out thhe zerk fitting just like them and keep growing.  

 

Ok just makin sure. Ill bring the heat tomorrow morn and see how it goes. Ill let you know. 

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Seems to me you guys are fighting hardened grease.  I never played with a merc, but on the OMCs,  I found you need to pull the steering arm out of the tube and run a wire 'bottle brush' on a drill through.

 

Again, don't know what the front end of the Merc looks like, but I assume they're similar enough

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Its most certainly hardened grease at the least, worst cast the bushing is shot. Only thing Ive had to get in there with are pipe cleaner brushes (short) and a zip tie. 757, any issues with heating near the bushings? aren't they nylon, can they take the heat if running a torch on the tube close to where they are seated? 

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