Duster535

HELP building 13 foot red drum heaver

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Hello, i’m new to this forum and new to rod building. I was told about this forum and that there would be plenty of guys with years of north carolina (east coast) knowledge on red drum fishing. My goal is to build a heaver for fishing at hatteras and off the end of Jennettes pier. My list of rod components are as follows.

 

Rod geeks SRF130HMF2

Fuji guides KW 30, 25, 20, 16, 12, and then 10, size 10 ring’s

Fuji tip top CCMNAT 10 (10)

Fuji dpsm reel seat 24 mm

Batson uv resistant butt cap

Fuji ultra poly thread size D

Cork tape and shrink wrap to go over it.

 

If anyone can tell me if im missing something or help me with this build, knowledge is power and im ready to learn because i would like to possibly build more.

Thank you in advance!

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I would go for a smaller reel seat if possible. Either a 20 or a 22. If your doing shrink over cork tape, get the tape that is pure cork, not the rubberized. Rubberized adds a lot of weight for no reason.

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13 mins ago, i07nyc said:

I would go for a smaller reel seat if possible. Either a 20 or a 22. If your doing shrink over cork tape, get the tape that is pure cork, not the rubberized. Rubberized adds a lot of weight for no reason.

Thank will do how will i determine if its pure cork or not?

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If you're set on Rodgeeks get the XH blank, the H is pretty wimpy with 8oz+.

 

22mm trigger reelseat, unless you don't want the trigger, then stick with 22mm or 24mm if you have big hands.

 

Guide trains:

30-25-20-16-16-16-16-16 tip top.

30-25-20-16-12-12-12-12(or 16) tip top. 

25-20-16-16-12-12-12-12(or 16 again) tip top.

 

Size 10 runners are asking for shock knots to hit and cause issues.  I use 16 tops on all mine, the knots pass through much easier on the retrieve, and if you get into grass they don't clog as easy.  The size 12 runners sit nicely in a notch on the pier rail as well.

 

Grips are personal preference, shrink tube is the go-to down here.  Can shrink over corktape, or use real cork as well.  Be advised real cork requires lots of reaming and the grips become really delicate until glued on the rod.

 

Pic is a CTS 1306, real cork, 24mm reel seat, and the third guide train listed. 

redsox3.jpg

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Good advice from Drumfish.

 

I have never thrown that rod but I know some folks run the XHs and like them.

 

You can get by with 10s and there may be a weight advantage but you dont see many rods with less than 12s. I go 25-20-16-12-12-12-12-12 tip top on mine. 

 

No need for shrink wrap over cork tape. One or the other will work. I have been using seine cord for my rod butts. Been using cork rings for foregrips and like them a lot. 

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5d09858c027b3_81kbhFtFEL._SX425_.jpg.8e290e14b3e148c23052a09cb7b8b0e4.jpg

 

Pure cork tape.notice its all brown. Its very lightweight but must be covered with shrink tubing. Works great at expanding the grip diameter if you feel the diameter is too small.

 

 

Cork-Tape-50-ft_media-1.jpg.565f5b27168c3fd4498c26ada303697d.jpg

Rubberized cork tape. Has black flecks of rubber mixed in. What a ton of factory rods use.

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3 hours ago, ZAFisher said:

What reel?

Main line dia?

Leader dia?

Probably another penn squall 15 or a fathom 30. I use 20lb mono main line (i dont know what the diameter is) into an 80 lb fluro shock leader .80 mm . Thanks in advance.

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20lb should be around 0.40mm dia, maybe a bit less.

Go with 12's; safe. 16's are big and heavy, not a fan of using them.

You could use 10's but would need to get (too?) clever and use a wind-on leader set up (think off shore wind-on leaders on a smaller scale)

I would suggest KW30L to KW20 and the rest KW12's to a MN tip top.

Dead simple and it works.

Buy yourself a total of 7 #12's so that you can static load test, I would rather have one left over than not have enough and be stalled or compromise.

#20 DPS reel seat might fit, but it might be a bit tight, will depend on your reel seat position and the OD of the blank whre you want to put it; get a 20 and a 22 and see which feels comfortable and do a dry wrap of the cork to compare finished grip OD to the OD of the reel seat hood.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

for conventional use lc20 for stripper, no sense using a kw30 on a conventional.

lc 20- lc16m - lc12 then kw12 all the way and an mn tiptop 

or

lc16 - lc12 - kw12 all the way

Edited by HellRaY

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HellRaY has a point: LC20 to  LC16 to KW12 also works very well.

I use it on some of my own rods. Would be happy to throw 1.2mm leaders through it too.

Many ways to skin a cat.

Ive been playing with the KW30L/KW20/KW12 on my field casting rods, hence my suggestion.

Was more about dropping the 25 and 16 as they are really not required

Yes it's a bit big, but works beautifully followed by the KW20.

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9 hours ago, Duster535 said:

Probably another penn squall 15 or a fathom 30. I use 20lb mono main line (i dont know what the diameter is) into an 80 lb fluro shock leader .80 mm . Thanks in advance.

You can drop the 20lb and get 16lb or 17lb depending the manufacturer. 95% of the drum-pros are throwing one of those two, for distance and abrasion control.  Berkley Prospec Chrome 16lb, or Sufix Tritanium Plus 17lb, both are .40mm.  20lb is .45mm in both of those.  As for reels, the Fathom 30 is way too big, stick with a 12 or 15.  Also ditch the 80lb flouro and get regular 50lb mono for shock leaders.  Drum don't care about line color or flourocarbon for that matter.   Any more questions shoot me a PM.

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On 6/19/2019 at 5:27 PM, Drumfish420 said:

You can drop the 20lb and get 16lb or 17lb depending the manufacturer. 95% of the drum-pros are throwing one of those two, for distance and abrasion control.  Berkley Prospec Chrome 16lb, or Sufix Tritanium Plus 17lb, both are .40mm.  20lb is .45mm in both of those.  As for reels, the Fathom 30 is way too big, stick with a 12 or 15.  Also ditch the 80lb flouro and get regular 50lb mono for shock leaders.  Drum don't care about line color or flourocarbon for that matter.   Any more questions shoot me a PM.

Thanks guys for your input I'm sure ill have more questions on my build when i start hopefully in two weeks. Ill be in contact.

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On 6/19/2019 at 5:27 PM, Drumfish420 said:

You can drop the 20lb and get 16lb or 17lb depending the manufacturer. 95% of the drum-pros are throwing one of those two, for distance and abrasion control.  Berkley Prospec Chrome 16lb, or Sufix Tritanium Plus 17lb, both are .40mm.  20lb is .45mm in both of those.  As for reels, the Fathom 30 is way too big, stick with a 12 or 15.  Also ditch the 80lb flouro and get regular 50lb mono for shock leaders.  Drum don't care about line color or flourocarbon for that matter.   Any more questions shoot me a PM.

Thanks for the help i decided togo with your suggestions thank you.

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