Peterf

Let's talk knots

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41 posts in this topic

On 6/6/2019 at 9:03 PM, bronson said:

plus swivels eat ur tip ceramics......

What? People actually run the swivel through the guides? I’ve seen the spro swivels and they’re pretty small but still....

     OP didn’t state what kind of fishing; imo if from the surf then any thin profile knot is good, I personally like the fg with a rizutto finish( I use conventional reels), if from jetties then (pre tied) leaders with a swivel and clip would be best because lines will be frayed.

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On 6/7/2019 at 2:53 PM, erz said:

I use a uni when I'm tying with braid, for whatever reason my clinch knots always slip. I'll tie a Palomar or clinch if I'm using mono.

 

Sometimes, if I'm tying 30-50# mono, I'll use this knot.. Anybody know what it's called?

 

 

Have you tried an improved clinch knot? I have been using it exclusively for years, and have not had it slip once.

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35 mins ago, ATH1089 said:

Have you tried an improved clinch knot? I have been using it exclusively for years, and have not had it slip once.

Yeah.. I have to put 10-12 turns in for the knot to hold. I've had much better luck with the uni, it takes me a few more seconds to tie but it's faster than having to tie two or three clinch knots before one holds.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Ummmmm...another one of those threads that blows my mind.

 

The most important aspect to consider about choosing a knot......You need to determine where and at what pressure you want the knot to break at.

There are knots for line to line joins and terminal knots that range from <%50 of the lines break strength to %99.

 

use 20lb braid with a PR knot you'll get 30lbs of break strength....use a 60lb leader with a polomar...and you'll likely break well away from the knot...so you'd want to use a weak terminal knot as you're likely using the heavy leader for chaff protection not strength....

 

If using 40 or 50lb braid and 60lb leader...you may not want to use a super strong PR or FG as you'll never be able to pull out a snag...but still want chaff protection.

So an alberto would break at around 70%

And if you needed to use the leader as a handle you may still want a strong terminal knot....knowing if you hange you'll break at the Alberto......

Tons of things go into knot choice....

Knowing half a dozen knots is all ya really need.....

Surprised to see how many suggested...weren't them.....

 

 

 

Swivels all of a sudden bad.  

Swivels are spectacular if you don't need a  leader longer than about 2 feet..  Only at night in snotty conditions are they bad for rod tips.   Any other time that becomes an issue.....it means you're not  paying attention.

And a 90 lb swivel unless you blast a tip...shouldn't damage it.  As it's steel vs industrial ceramic.  Modern rings are pretty durable.  Most broken rings due to swivels I bet are from people who cast em out the guides.((which ummmm yeah....that's user error))

 

If you personally don't like thwackin tip tops.....that's fine.....doesn't make em bad.   Using a swivel is often stronger than most peoples line to line joins.

 

Not a single mention of an Alberto knot...when in every way shape and form it's stronger than every other join method mentioned, while being simpler and more consistent with any pound test.  (with the exception of the FG and PR knot)

 

 

Improved Clinch knots suck.....with mono fluro and braid.   Double uni, Polomar, Uni, Fishing fool, Miller knot....From trout to tuna....if ya ain't crimpin use one of them.

 

 

 

Edited by scoobydoo

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My skills are poor so I use knots I can tie consistently well, ones that don’t cause me to curse, ones tat I can tie smoking a cigarette.

 

Palomar for my clips always, FG knot for leader to braid when using 30 lb+ leader, Alberto with the scooby finish for leader to braid when using smaller diameter leader and in the field.  The very rare times I tie a lure direct as opposed to using a clip I use a Trilene knot which is the only knot I learned as a kid.

 

i never worry about my knots failing - they don’t - I’m much more concerned about leader and mainline breaks from frayed mono or old or sucky braid.

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15 hours ago, erz said:

Yeah.. I have to put 10-12 turns in for the knot to hold. I've had much better luck with the uni, it takes me a few more seconds to tie but it's faster than having to tie two or three clinch knots before one holds.

I literally never have improved clinches slip. 8 wraps for 2-6lb test, down to as few as five on 50-80lb. I do double the wraps I would for the same diameter if it's braided line. I always push the wraps down towards the eye while I pull the standing line and tag. Once the wraps reach the eye, I pull the standing line tight, then the tag. Wet mono, dry braid (except for Nanofil, which I found needs to be wet). Ensure the final loop and rap doesn't slip past the eye onto the shank when tightening.

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I was on a party boat about a week ago and someone on the other side of the boat let out too much line . He brought up my rig and the mate cut it off. I watched the mate tie a clinch knot from my braid to my swivel. I told him that I don't trust clinch knots when using braid, they slip in my experience. He assured me that his improved clinch knot would be fine. He pulled it to demonstrate, it slipped right out. He was pretty new to the job. I'm sure he will be using Palomar knots from now on for braid to swivel connections.

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