chris koltz

best jig head in snag filled bottom

18 posts in this topic

I have had the best luck fishing round head 1/8 jigs on 6 lb test medium light spinning rod in shallow[7 ft to 2 ft] snag filled area's in freshwater in the past. Recently I have been fishing brackish water for a mixed bag LMB,flounder, and drum. This area is full of boulders and most of my snags are head wedged rather than hooked snagged. This results in heavy jig loss and down time if I work the bottom. So far best approach has been 8-10 lb mono and 20 lb mono leader or 15 - 20 lb braid with 25 lb mono leader and swimming 1/8,1/4,3/8 and 1/2 oz jigs with a variety of 3 to 4 inch rubber bodies or buck tail 1 to 2 foot under the surface with a 7 ft rod with the tip high. I have fished 5 or 6 different head styles with about the same results If you hit bottom or fish bottom lost jig every 5 to 10 cast. Current and wind are a factor on lure choices. 

I would like to hear from you guys on jig combinations or lure presentations that might help with the heavy jig loss. I have fished a lot of different lures but a jig out shines everything  by far in this area. I'm after the flounder LMB and red drum are bonus. Sorry to yak this long just starting to get frustrated. Thanks

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Your spot is very much like an area I fish in winter. If you don't get down you don't catch fish and a very rocky structure in current. Fishing a lite round head helps but doesn't always work depending on conditions, current and river depth also length of tail used kills your cast.

I try to find bulk deals on heads and tails because catching is more important than loosing less cheap jigs.

Good luck and I hope someone with more experience and success jumps in here.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Chris, I've been pouring my own for a long time now, several styles, and frankly it doesn't matter what you use for that type of bottom, they'll all hang up some. As you say, they get wedged, not hooked.  The issue is with angles, and fishing from shore will be worse than from a boat. At least from a boat you can fish more vertical and lessen the hang ups. 

 

I used to fish in both the Susquehanna River & Potomac River in MD, both having bottoms like that and it always resulted in lost jigs. I've tried every style that I know. Wire snag guards can help some with hooks getting snagged, but won't prevent that wedging problem. 

 

Current and wind can also compound the problem because it makes staying in contact & control of the jig more difficult and once it's in a crack or crevice, it's hung. . 

 

I wish I could tell you to use X style jig & it will solve your problem, but don't believe such a jig head exists. Those rock bottoms, particularly when they have ledges are one of the worse types for losing jigs, yet one of the most productive for fishing. 

 

I used a float in that type of water, and got less hang ups, but it changes the presentation. 

 

I agree with LL, cheap round heads in bulk, and be prepared to lose them is often the best approach. It's frustrating that's for sure. 

 

BTW, I spent a lot of time fly fishing in those rivers too, and got a lot less hang ups. Used floating lines with weighted flies that had snag guards. They slide over the rocks much better than a jig, but would still lose some. I know that Salmon & Steelhead guys use pencil type weights in a drop shot fashion with unweighted flies and floating jigs. That might be worth trying, but won't be the same presentation. 

 

Yes, weighted swimbait/worm hooks might work well, but you're still going to lose some of them. I pour them too, but where I fish, don't have that type of bottom. 

 

Edited by tidewaterfly

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6 mins ago, Sweetwater said:

Try rigging on a weighted worm hook instead of the jighead. 

I assume your talking about keeper weedless style rigging.They have been added to my bag. Do you have any favorite rubber and hook brand. I've used the original ones made by Mr.Twister in other situations. I'm sure there are better options now. Thanks 

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2 mins ago, tidewaterfly said:

Chris, I've been pouring my own for a long time now, several styles, and frankly it doesn't matter what you use for that type of bottom, they'll all hang up some. As you say, they get wedged, not hooked.  The issue is with angles, and fishing from shore will be worse than from a boat. At least from a boat you can fish more vertical and lessen the hang ups. 

 

I used to fish in both the Susquehanna River & Potomac River in MD, both having bottoms like that and it always resulted in lost jigs. I've tried every style that I know. Wire snag guards can help some with hooks getting snagged, but won't prevent that wedging problem. 

 

Current and wind can also compound the problem because it makes staying in contact & control of the jig more difficult and once it's in a crack or crevice, it's hung. . 

 

I wish I could tell you to use X style jig & it will solve your problem, but don't believe such a jig head exists. Those rock bottoms, particularly when they have ledges are one of the worse types for losing jigs, yet one of the most productive for fishing. 

 

I used a float in that type of water, and got less hang ups, but it changes the presentation. 

 

I agree with LL, cheap round heads in bulk, and be prepared to lose them is often the best approach. It's frustrating that's for sure. 

 

BTW, I spent a lot of time fly fishing in those rivers too, and got a lot less hang ups. Uses floating lines with weighted flies that had snag guards. They slide over the rocks much better than a jig, but would still lose some. I know that Salmon & Steelhead guys use pencil type weights in a drop shot fashion with unweighted flies and floating jigs. That might be worth trying, but won't be the same presentation. 

Good advice thanks. Curious if you fished the wobble style jig heads that are semi flat on the bottom. I'm guessing there easier to swim and keep just off bottom. I have not tried any tin have you had a chance to?

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7 mins ago, chris koltz said:

I assume your talking about keeper weedless style rigging.They have been added to my bag. Do you have any favorite rubber and hook brand. I've used the original ones made by Mr.Twister in other situations. I'm sure there are better options now. Thanks 

 

There are many on the market. My favorite are the Owner twist locks, they also come in a "beast" version with a larger gap as well as ones with spinners attached. 

 

 

1024x768-13169-owner-5132w-hooks.jpg

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Just now, buddha162 said:

 

There are many on the market. My favorite are the Owner twist locks, they also come in a "beast" version with a larger gap as well as ones with spinners attached. 

 

 

1024x768-13169-owner-5132w-hooks.jpg

I like the look of the twist to secure rubber. Looks to be a improvement over the straight spiked ones I've fished in the past. Thanks

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I also pour the wobble heads, and they're going to hang too in that type of bottom. They're great over mud or sand, and small gravel. Same with stand-up jigs. I like to use those styles with curltail grubs, and either won't hang if you can keep them just above the bottom, but you know that's not always possible. If it were, you would lose a lot less. The stand up style is made to be in contact with the bottom, so not the best for the bottom you're fishing. 

 

I have only played with tin & made a few spoons. It's about 2/3 the density of lead, so you need a bigger profile to get the same weight. Conversely, tungsten is much more dense, so a smaller profile, but for that type of bottom, it's the shape that is the problem. As you say, they get wedged. Tin & tungsten both are going to cost more and you'll still lose some of them. 

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Chris, I have a couple of molds for pouring those weighted hooks too. I've used the various name brands, really like the Owners.  That Beast hook that Owner has is excellent! They can all be good depending on the plastic you like and keep them sharp. 

 

I have also been using some Trokar hooks, which is becoming my preferred hook for that type of rig, but they are expensive. Not something that I would want to lose a lot of. 

 

However, I've been buying the Owner screw locks for them, and I really like the centering pin that they have. Makes rigging very easy and solid! . 

 

 

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I'll throw this out there.......

I use a cheaper 1/4 or 3/8 ounce round jig head mainly.... I use 8 lb braid to an 8 lb "sunline snyper" flouro leader and I do hang up on debris which flows and settles in my prefered fishing area.

High river = more current = more fish = more debris rolling in along the bottom. Many times I can pull the hook because it's cheap and bends before the line breaks. I first used the best of hooks and rigs and weedless and found I got stuck about the same and always broke off. I found myself fishing a faster retrieve and catching less fish trying to not get hung up.

I have not had a hook break or bend on a fish. I'm catching smallies, walleye and catfish.

And all on old twister tails of which I have a lifetime supply.................

 

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20 mins ago, Lateral Line said:

I'll throw this out there.......

I use a cheaper 1/4 or 3/8 ounce round jig head mainly.... I use 8 lb braid to an 8 lb "sunline snyper" flouro leader and I do hang up on debris which flows and settles in my prefered fishing area.

High river = more current = more fish = more debris rolling in along the bottom. Many times I can pull the hook because it's cheap and bends before the line breaks. I first used the best of hooks and rigs and weedless and found I got stuck about the same and always broke off. I found myself fishing a faster retrieve and catching less fish trying to not get hung up.

I have not had a hook break or bend on a fish. I'm catching smallies, walleye and catfish.

And all on old twister tails of which I have a lifetime supply.................

 

Something about the twister tail style grub. Salt or fresh it's where I start. Thanks

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I do use the keeper hook. I like the long barbed spike on the keeper hooks because it disengages from the head of the bait on the strike. The bait is less likely to ball up around the point of the hook. I use the unweighted hooks to keep the bait from balling on the weight. 

 

I also like ease of rigging of the keeper hook. It is one of the few hooks where you can align the bait on the bend of the hook without having it attached to the head. I can also change baits frequently without wasting the bait. 

 

I manage weight by crimping split shot on small loops of 6# mono and hanging the weight on the shank of the hook. This tucks the snag prone part of my bait up under the tail as I retrieve and makes the bait suspend in place for a moment on the stall. And if I do manage to wedge the shot, the light mono will break off and all I lose is a shot. 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

If you are worried about the lost jigheads, consider switching to a drop shot rig.

 

Use cheap split shots crimped onto the dropper line as your weight.

 

Should it get wedged in the rocks you just pull the rig free leaving the spilt shot. No line breaking needed, no hook retying, no lure rerigging, the split shot will slide right off and you just crimp a new split shot right back on.

Edited by Beastly Backlash

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Drop shot or Neko rig.  I make my drop shot rigs by pinching on large split shot.  I can pull the rig free and only lose the split shot.

 

I've been successful using a float as well.

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