Fishy4335

Electric bike 4 riding on the beach?!

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On 5/14/2019 at 7:24 AM, Fishy4335 said:

Thanks I will do that....... 

I would add that you should run them tubeless to achieve lower pressures without the risk of "pinch flats". A pinch flat happens when the tube gets pinched between the tire and rim like if you hit a rock and bottom out. Not as likely on the beach but still can happen. Not all rims are tubeless ready but most can be converted to tubeless. Lot's of info on the web on how to do that or better yet, take it to your LBS. 

The other obvious benefit to running tubeless is the sealant prevents you from getting flats...

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There are  two types of eBike drives. The best and most expensive are mid-drive where the motor is integrated in the frame. The motors are made by Bosch, Yamaha, & Shimano. These go for $2200 and up (usually over $3K) .

The other type and most common is hub drive where the motor is integrated in the front or rear hub. The only hub drive brand that I know of is Bafang. 

The difference is that a mid-drive bike works with the bike’s gears for higher efficiency. This is because it's driving the chain as opposed to driving the wheel like on a hub-drive bike.

So, if you are going up a hill on a mid-drive bike and shift to an easier gear, the motor will turn at a higher cadence and benefit just like your legs will. The electronics on some mid-drive bikes require that you pedal and will doll out the power based on how hard you are pedaling. Some don't require you to pedal at all.

If you are going up a hill on a hub-drive bike and shift to an easier gear, the motor knows nothing about it and keep turning at whatever speed you are travelling. It's important to keep pedaling and not rely completely on the motor to get you up a hill. Electric motors like to spin quickly and if you aren't helping the motor will be under a lot of strain on a steep or long hill.

That said, you should pedal up hills on both types of bikes as it will reduce the strain on the motor and prolong your battery life.

There is nothing wrong with hub-drive bikes and I think for most people riding relatively flat streets and beaches, they are the way to go.

Regarding brands, most bike frames are made in a handful of factories in Asia so the build quality from frame to frame in a particular price range is about the same. Frame materials, features and component specs are where the big differences are. 

Look for a frame that is either made of 6061 Aluminium or butted Chromoly steel (or if you have a lot of money, titanium or carbon fiber). If it's aluminium, make sure it has a replaceable rear derailleur hanger. They can bend and break and if you can't replace it, you are likely SOL.

Make sure the frame has "braze-ons" (threaded bosses) for installing racks and water bottle holders. You can install racks without them but it won't be as secure and will likely damage the paint. 

Regarding components, you want at least 10 cogs in the back. The cheaper bikes come with 7 or 8. 

The cheaper bikes come with a lower component spec. It will usually be either Shimano or SRAM for derailleurs and shifters but both brands have a wide range of products. The low end stuff will have a lot of stamped steel which you want to avoid.

All fat bikes have disk brakes but there is a big difference between mechanical and hydraulic both in weight and stopping power. Hydros are the way to go. 

Finally, you don't need suspension on a fat bike that will mainly be ridden on easy trails or the beach. Nice to have but adds weight and not necessary.

The Rad Rover appears to have no braze-ons and it comes with mechanical disk brakes and a low end component spec.
The bike Chuck ordered from bikes direct, (Bullseye Monster Xe Electric Fat Bike) has braze-ons, hydraulic brakes and comes with a much better component spec. Both are $1499.

There are tons of fat eBikes out there. Just keep in mind the above and you'll find something that works for you.

 

 

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5 hours ago, beerdoh said:

There are  two types of eBike drives. The best and most expensive are mid-drive where the motor is integrated in the frame. The motors are made by Bosch, Yamaha, & Shimano. These go for $2200 and up (usually over $3K) .

The other type and most common is hub drive where the motor is integrated in the front or rear hub. The only hub drive brand that I know of is Bafang. 

The difference is that a mid-drive bike works with the bike’s gears for higher efficiency. This is because it's driving the chain as opposed to driving the wheel like on a hub-drive bike.

So, if you are going up a hill on a mid-drive bike and shift to an easier gear, the motor will turn at a higher cadence and benefit just like your legs will. The electronics on some mid-drive bikes require that you pedal and will doll out the power based on how hard you are pedaling. Some don't require you to pedal at all.

If you are going up a hill on a hub-drive bike and shift to an easier gear, the motor knows nothing about it and keep turning at whatever speed you are travelling. It's important to keep pedaling and not rely completely on the motor to get you up a hill. Electric motors like to spin quickly and if you aren't helping the motor will be under a lot of strain on a steep or long hill.

That said, you should pedal up hills on both types of bikes as it will reduce the strain on the motor and prolong your battery life.

There is nothing wrong with hub-drive bikes and I think for most people riding relatively flat streets and beaches, they are the way to go.

Regarding brands, most bike frames are made in a handful of factories in Asia so the build quality from frame to frame in a particular price range is about the same. Frame materials, features and component specs are where the big differences are. 

Look for a frame that is either made of 6061 Aluminium or butted Chromoly steel (or if you have a lot of money, titanium or carbon fiber). If it's aluminium, make sure it has a replaceable rear derailleur hanger. They can bend and break and if you can't replace it, you are likely SOL.

Make sure the frame has "braze-ons" (threaded bosses) for installing racks and water bottle holders. You can install racks without them but it won't be as secure and will likely damage the paint. 

Regarding components, you want at least 10 cogs in the back. The cheaper bikes come with 7 or 8. 

The cheaper bikes come with a lower component spec. It will usually be either Shimano or SRAM for derailleurs and shifters but both brands have a wide range of products. The low end stuff will have a lot of stamped steel which you want to avoid.

All fat bikes have disk brakes but there is a big difference between mechanical and hydraulic both in weight and stopping power. Hydros are the way to go. 

Finally, you don't need suspension on a fat bike that will mainly be ridden on easy trails or the beach. Nice to have but adds weight and not necessary.

The Rad Rover appears to have no braze-ons and it comes with mechanical disk brakes and a low end component spec.
The bike Chuck ordered from bikes direct, (Bullseye Monster Xe Electric Fat Bike) has braze-ons, hydraulic brakes and comes with a much better component spec. Both are $1499.

There are tons of fat eBikes out there. Just keep in mind the above and you'll find something that works for you.

 

 

Jeez that's a lot of info! Thanks for taking the time I have no idea whT any of it means but I will look into it

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12 mins ago, Fishy4335 said:

Jeez that's a lot of info! Thanks for taking the time I have no idea whT any of it means but I will look into it

I think it means better buy a good lock.:wave:

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3 hours ago, Fishy4335 said:

Jeez that's a lot of info! Thanks for taking the time I have no idea whT any of it means but I will look into it

Stream of consciousness. Plus I was on my 3rd coffee and it was a slow day at work. 

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23 hours ago, beerdoh said:

 

There are tons of fat eBikes out there. Just keep in mind the above and you'll find something that works for you.

 

 

Thank you for posting this. A lot of helpful info in a single post!

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On 5/13/2019 at 1:22 PM, z-man said:

I think that they fall under the category of motorized vehicle which are not allowed on most beaches. 

I know for sure motorized are not allowed on the Jones Beach (NY) bike path.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

3 hours ago, YakDawg said:

I know for sure motorized are not allowed on the Jones Beach (NY) bike path.

Motorized is considered gas powered.... electric is a bike pulled by wire and battery....  ofcourse when they say motorized they mean ninja bikes

Edited by Fishy4335

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15 mins ago, Fishy4335 said:

Motorized is considered gas powered.... electric is a bike pulled by wire and battery....  ofcourse when they say motorized they mean ninja bikes

E bikes are powered by an electric motor.

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Just now, YakDawg said:

E bikes are powered by an electric motor.

Are you referring to the bike path on the north side of ocean parkway?

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5 hours ago, Fishy4335 said:

Motorized is considered gas powered.... electric is a bike pulled by wire and battery....  ofcourse when they say motorized they mean ninja bikes

If that’s how the rules work then I’m going to get one of these 50 HP electric motocross bikes to ride on the beach. 

 

BC0CA550-517B-4445-8AB9-034247C12B1B.jpeg

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On 5/17/2019 at 10:25 PM, z-man said:

If that’s how the rules work then I’m going to get one of these 50 HP electric motocross bikes to ride on the beach. 

 

BC0CA550-517B-4445-8AB9-034247C12B1B.jpeg

This might be a good idea.... but you would need a motorcycle license for this

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in ny, if it has functioning pedals, it is a bicycle. if it doesn't, it is a motorcycle and you need a license, registration/plate,  and a helmet.

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