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Customizing a boat wood projects

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I got a basic good sized row boat.

 

I'm looking to make rod storage holder made for bigger spinning reels.  A few storage pockets, tool and lure holders,  and a power switch center with your usual light switches.

 

Anybody have some pics of anything like this.

 

What easily obtained, affordable wood should I be using?   Poly and stain gonna be good enough.  This boat is stored cover, outside, and not on a dock.   Freshwater mostly besides 2 or 3 long weekend trips.

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I put wiring for a fish finder, lights, pump etc into a little tin skiff and I used a pvc junction box for the switch’s that work well. I even used conduit to run the wires so they were safe and not in the way. As far as the rod holders I have spent too much time on projects like that only not to be happy with it in the end. Just get some tube single rod holders and space them for you reel handles and go fishing and have fun. Wood for boats should be dry and totally encapsulated with epoxy or spar or even paint but you have to take care of it. Books can/have been written on this but it’s just my two cents. Try google and tiny tins if you still want ideas on customizing a little boat

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Azek board all the way.  No painting and no rotting.  Ss bolts and screws

 

I redid my tin boat with it used it for decks and everything else

Edited by Captain Ahab

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I used sapele on mine, didn't want to pay for teak or African mahogany. A little heavy but if you're only using a few boards it won't kill you. I used epifanes and it looks good and it's been durable. Check out a boat restoration forum like hull truth.

 

 

Edited by marty_mccarty

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Marine plywood is appropriate for some projects.  Available at lumber yards near coast.  Use stainless steel screws, bolts, washers, etc.  With wood clean, apply 2-3 coats of marine spar varnish.

 

Since nothing is level.or straight on a boat...you gotta pick a line.  Across tops of all seats is good.  Shim your trailer until you get those surfaces level....then you can use a level anywhere and it will be parallel to that reference plane.  Another tip when you need to scribe to curved surfaces is make your best guess of the curved shape... taking whatever measurements are eas and eyeballing.....and then cut a piece of cardboard.  Put the cardboard piece into place.....note where the differences and gaps are...and then transfer off to a new piece of cardboard making the adjustments needed. 

 

When you have the cardboard pieces damn close....use them for a template to cut your wood.  (Naturally the wood is going to be thicker than the cardboard so take that into account...the pieces can't  be the exact size of the cardboard if they abut each other).  Don't forget any "pockets" you make have to be able to easily drain water.

 

You can use epoxy glue if you need to fasten something to the inside of a metal hull. Obviously you're not going to drill thru hull to fasten something.  Running a wood gunwhale trim at least partially around the sides will allow you to easily attach cleats, and yak-type gear tracks for flexible and removable mounting of rod holders, cleats, lights, etc. (and if the gunnel trim overhangs towards the interior a bit, it will provide a protected place to run wiring.  You could probably use Trex decking for this.  Rip the width you need and let it get real hot in the sun before bending into position and fastening.  Of course mahogany is a nice touch too.  Teak is brutal on your tools so avoid that.

Edited by blackdogfish

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