Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Shane_O

Penn Spinfisher V 7500 Long Casting SSV7500LC Rebuild Lessons Learned

Rate this topic

3 posts in this topic

So, one of my main surfcasting reels for the past 2-3 years has been a Penn Spinfisher V 7500 Long Casting model. It’s been accidentally dunked, banged up on the rocks, etc. It easily has over 500 fish on it, and has some sentimental value to me.

 

So after last year when the bail wire broke and lack of maintenance finally caught up to it, I decided to rebuild it instead of throwing it out and replacing it. I have better reels that will be used more often, but didn’t see why I should just give up on this one since parts were relatively cheap and I could use it as a backup or a loaner.

 

First tear down:

The grease inside the main housing was badly fouled by wear products from the main gear, which was all scraped up and causing grindiness while reeling. Everything was fouled up (first photo). All bearings were good. Brass worm gear was ok since it was being worn smooth by the main gear. I cleaned everything out and re-oiled bearings, re-greased gears, and noted everything needing replacement. After re-assembly it was still grindy because of the main gear (I knew it would be but needed to order parts and re-assembling is a sure fire way not to lose anything).

 

Note: Be VERY careful while removing/re-installing the bearing covers on either side of the reel, the heads on the tiny Phillips screws easily get stripped out. Use the proper micro screwdrivers and apply firm pressure to avoid stripping out the screw heads. 

 

Parts came in, time for rebuilding. Parts replaced: main gear (see note below), all 6 bearing housing screws, main housing seal (just in case), bail wire assembly, line roller bearing, attempted to replace the worm gear bushing but the new one seemed too tight and caused excess resistance after re-assembly and testing, so I re-installed the old one and it was fine. In hindsight, over-tightening other screws may have put pressure on the main shaft bearing causing the resistance.

 

Problem Areas:

 

The bearing on the main gear is pressed on from the factory so I had to very carefully drill it out and remove it for re-use. If you need to replace the main gear, order the bearing too so that you don’t have to do this. The replacement gear didn’t require the bearing to be pressed on.

 

The Anti-Reverse switch relies on a tiny spring and a lever to rotate a plastic housing (which is pinched between a main shaft bearing retainer and the plastic housing for the anti reverse bearings). If it’s pinched too tightly from screwing on the metal cover that covers the top of the whole metal housing, it won’t be actuated all the way into the locked position when you want the anti reverse engaged. The little spring doesn’t have enough force to fully engage it if there’s too much friction which is a real pain in the ass.

 

I ended up making a retainer pin out of through-wiring material to keep it permanently locked in the “on” position (shown in one of the photos).

 

If you’re going to try to keep the anti-reverse switch functionality, be very careful not to damage or lose the tiny spring. That sucker goes flying if you pry it off the wrong way.

 

I also DIY’d a thin gasket for the metal cover that seals up the main shaft bearing + anti-reverse assembly so that I could get a decent tourque on those screws without pinching the main shaft bearing or the anti-reverse assembly too much.

 

The whole thing was a pain in the ass but it works great now. I didn’t take photos of everything but if you’re working on one of these reels and have questions, feel free to PM me. There are some aspects that aren’t made obvious by the schematics.

 

if the reel didn’t have sentimental value, I don’t think I’d do this again. But it was a fun little weekend project.

C57D0107-AADB-4229-9D28-074A0BE95A09.jpeg

14D30554-5EA7-4297-8290-A3BD503083F2.jpeg

1BB0BEA7-9BE0-4E56-B4F7-61181B154785.jpeg

AE452F47-9BE2-487F-947A-5F661FF23A50.jpeg

C0AEA13D-9B9F-4145-A1A7-41F42F0DB385.jpeg

0095BF66-D184-4E7D-ABA6-16ED9F4E610E.jpeg

E50B1AE2-F37B-49ED-9416-9E50F27E757A.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's weird with the bearings.  Didnt have a problem taking any of mine out of the 6500 and 4500.  Replaced them all with sealed as we only got about 2 seasons out of the factory ones when they started seizing up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

First always change the main and pinion gear at the same time. When you order a new main gear it does not come with a bearing on it.  The bearings are not pressed on. The reels are very easy to work on. Nothing special. Why did you take the outer bearing covers off? No need to unless you are replacing the rubber seal. Even then add grease to the handle and right side opening. That’s how water gets in.

 

Usually it takes 2 screwdrivers to lift the old bearing off the main gear. If they don't come off easily.

 

i do see water intrusion. Look at the right side bearing. 

 

The bearings should be oiled then a little grease added. These reels are not waterproof so keep it out of the water. If you see the grease changing color its water getting in the reel. 

Edited by handi2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.