Mike Oliver

Sorry done before need TH line 550 grains

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Esa

Could you explain a little more how you constructed these lines? 

“To but good behaving floating head I would take two SA Skagits and join their front tapers to make desired length and weight.

 

Joining two front tapers from two AF CS 630gr or 660gr should be good for stiff Carp rod users to have 700...800gr heads. For heavier heads using 690gr or 720gr keep head length in control...”

 

I assume you join two cut lines back to back? Perhaps  include some diagrams and how do you splice lines together?

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This is how I make the WF line when running line is thin and shooting head is thick. I cut the head coating open using sharp blade but avoid damaging the core. Cuts do not need to co touching the core because core can be pulled out and it "rips" the other side cut and then other side is safe to cut using blade. I form coating "flaps"so that they taper and are at least 1/2".

 

I remove the coating from running line as well and saturate both cores using water proof PU (wader repair glue). Then I tie both cores together using Reef Knot and tighten the knot so that it comes deep between the flaps. A needle thru knot can be used to slide knot deeper. Then I cut ends about 1/4" and "fray" them so their surface increase and they lay smoother between the flaps.

 

Then I tape thicker line to table so that the area I work comes about 2" outside. I add more PU glue between and over flaps and use fly tying bobbin and synthetic thread and wrap over so that thread gets PU saturation. I finish doing at least five half hitches which for me is the trickiest phase in whole process because I want half hitch come just where the threading is going on and I need to drop the bobbin thru thread loop I make using my rheuma stiffened fingers which sense is also bad. Then I smoothen the PU and let dry overnight.

 

When PU wetted knot comes deep between the flaps it is protected against wear and this method makes it as strong as weaker of the lines. I have not used much this kind WF lines but enough that I can say it works just fine.

 

First photo show tapered flaps and ready made Reef Knot. I can't see if the core ends are frayed yet looking that small photo?  Second photo it is wrapped and PU coated.

 

Esa

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Yes there I meant that joining two of the better tapered ends so that head comes a DT taper. I have also put a taper to one or both ends of a Skagit belly.

 

After I had measured many line head lengths, weights and weights of both half of the head I also knew how they did behave when casting I was able to improve them and make them do what I want. It is quite easy to measure the line but understanding what effects what needs test casting. Simplest test is to turn a shooting head other way around!

 

In practice rod has very small effect to casting performance but fly line and casting skills have huge effect.

 

This is how I join thicker line sections. First I cut line and look the end if the core is off center and usually they are. Line usually also coils to which side the core is closer the surface. My coal is to slice half of the coating away and leave the core visible and not damaged. Like very shallow S-shape. So I put line to table edge so that core which is closest the line surface goes against the table. Then I cut other line same way. Then I trial fit them and usually need to cut more. Fit does not need to come perfect now but I want that cores overlap each other at least 1/2" and join comes strong.

 

Then comes trickiest phase of this task :) I put very little CA glue and press lines together and when I don't use cloves my finger skin might stuck little as well but after one to two minutes I can rip fingers away and use sharp blade and shape joined area round and neat which is on first photo. Then thread wrap like previous post and it is on second photo.

 

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I have also joined lines removing coating first and then forming two vedge flaps to both lines which do not need to be long. Then PU glue to cores and Reef Knot together which is done in only photo. Then core cuts, fraying, more PU and thread wrap which compress coating tight around the knot. I think I improved this first wrapping over the knot about ten times which did require to wiggle the thread between flaps. Then did final wrapping which made join neat. Usually there came some or more bulk which did not have much effect to use but I use previous method now.

 

When I build competition lines their diameter can not exceed 2.00mm or 3.00mm and using previous method it is easier to control diameter not getting too big.

 

I have also pulled line core inside other line core using thin needles which is most difficult and time consuming method and it needs better quality core lines. I have also welded lines but lately I have welded only PU coated lines (Airflo, Guideline and newer Vision)

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 Thanks Crunch. In the second method,  when you join thicker lines together, the two section overlap with cores in place and are glued together with crazy glue? No knots? Then further secured with thread wraps? Seems like a simple glued overlap would not be that strong? 

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No that smooth does not need to knot the cores.

 

Perhaps just glue could be strong enough if proper glue for PVC is used but I don't know if there is?

 

I have broke only one test weld to PU line joins which cores did overlap about inch and half and it did not broke from the weld area but just outside. I thought the heat did weaken the core. It did require lots of pull before it broke although I did not measure the force. I came to a conclusion that welding is good method to join PU coated lines so I have done few modifications to fishing lines but I have not used them much.

 

Esa

Edited by crunch

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