Striper46

Light weight Trolling motor battery

211 posts in this topic

1 hour ago, Striper46 said:

that dial is your on, off, forward, reverse & speed control?

Yeah, other pic was from another kayak..this is current... this is definitely not a simple jimmy rigged  set up. ;)

 

All this was winter project stuff, i didn't buy anything except maybe some minor hardware, screws, grommet, connectors, the gears,  etc... 

 

20190724_144823.jpg.154f097ee49bf4e56336a1d1027a7413.jpg

 

The control head that came on the motor has its electronics potted so removing just that from the control head was out of the question so i ripped off the plastic housing, threw out the tiller handle & milled off anything that wasn't necessary leaving a nice tight little bundle of electronics with minimal alum housing surrounding it, after that it got mounted to a custom plastic frame & made a right angle power transmission leading up to the knob catch.

20170321_154037.jpg.a57d5e7b86920cafdbffb2b7a9a328e1.jpg

 

 

Everything's tucked away safe & dry below deck, not once have i had a water issue, etc...

 

20190724_144850.jpg.dea03687b3fdca2652584126941a67d4.jpg

 

Knob has a custom shaft with a hex milled on the end & its grommeted at the cover exit point making it water tight .... its timed with the receiver that has a matching hex broached in it with a cone shaped catch dia on the top for centering the shaft with the broached hex .....

 

When i swing the hatch back down closed, it always goes exactly to that point, the catch dia cone will take up any  alignment issues that may arise.

20190724_144901.jpg.d749d6c301d365a1235e2df5f6311994.jpg

 

The whole system is removable in minutes, electronics, wiring, motor mount etc, for when i don't want any of it on board...

 

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41 mins ago, BillZ said:

Yeah, other pic was from another kayak..this is current... this is definitely not a simple jimmy rigged  set up. ;)

 

All this was winter project stuff, i didn't buy anything except maybe some minor hardware, screws, grommet, connectors, the gears,  etc... 

 

20190724_144823.jpg.154f097ee49bf4e56336a1d1027a7413.jpg

 

The control head that came on the motor has its electronics potted so removing just that from the control head was out of the question so i ripped off the plastic housing, threw out the tiller handle & milled off anything that wasn't necessary leaving a nice tight little bundle of electronics with minimal alum housing surrounding it, after that it got mounted to a custom plastic frame & made a right angle power transmission leading up to the knob catch.

20170321_154037.jpg.a57d5e7b86920cafdbffb2b7a9a328e1.jpg

 

 

Everything's tucked away safe & dry below deck, not once have i had a water issue, etc...

 

20190724_144850.jpg.dea03687b3fdca2652584126941a67d4.jpg

 

Knob has a custom shaft with a hex milled on the end & its grommeted at the cover exit point making it water tight .... its timed with the receiver that has a matching hex broached in it with a cone shaped catch dia on the top for centering the shaft with the broached hex .....

 

When i swing the hatch back down closed, it always goes exactly to that point, the catch dia cone will take up any  alignment issues that may arise.

20190724_144901.jpg.d749d6c301d365a1235e2df5f6311994.jpg

 

The whole system is removable in minutes, electronics, wiring, motor mount etc, for when i don't want any of it on board...

 

That’s sweet but way beyond my skill level lol 

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To reiterate:

 

- ONLY switch that would last (sure did me for , for ~5 years now) is MinnKota rotary switch. Completely sealed, rated for high currents. This one has ability to support multi-speed on multi-coil motors (Watersnake included) and F/Reverse

 

-  ALL OTHER switches , especially stock ones on Watersnake, will quit very quickly, esp after any water gets in. Now, replacement cost is very low and these are spade-connected, so no soldering required. Meaning you can replace these in minutes. But,  you will be replacing these a LOT.

 

When you try to break an inductive load circuit that is carrying 20-30A of current, things will happen that are very detrimental to life of contact surfaces inside of whatever switch that is used.

 

I install watersnake through Hobie MD opening.  Having to constantly lean forward (and back) to change speed/direction is not an option. So I completely chopped off the control head and make my own from a $5 Lowes plastic enclosure + MinnKota rotary switch. This new control unit is right by my RH.

 

Another upside - the deck is very clean. About 4" of waternake's shaft protrudes above the deck, just enough to keep the opening safely above water level. 

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

2 hours ago, r111 said:

To reiterate:

 

- ONLY switch that would last (sure did me for , for ~5 years now) is MinnKota rotary switch. Completely sealed, rated for high currents. This one has ability to support multi-speed on multi-coil motors (Watersnake included) and F/Reverse

 

-  ALL OTHER switches , especially stock ones on Watersnake, will quit very quickly, esp after any water gets in. Now, replacement cost is very low and these are spade-connected, so no soldering required. Meaning you can replace these in minutes. But,  you will be replacing these a LOT.

 

When you try to break an inductive load circuit that is carrying 20-30A of current, things will happen that are very detrimental to life of contact surfaces inside of whatever switch that is used.

 

I install watersnake through Hobie MD opening.  Having to constantly lean forward (and back) to change speed/direction is not an option. So I completely chopped off the control head and make my own from a $5 Lowes plastic enclosure + MinnKota rotary switch. This new control unit is right by my RH.

 

Another upside - the deck is very clean. About 4" of waternake's shaft protrudes above the deck, just enough to keep the opening safely above water level. 

 

 

My apologizes that you mentioned this before,, i don't remember reading anything about it. :)

 

Is it the 5 speed Minnkota rotary switch, this one?

 

In addition to this do you have a pwm or is this a pwm? :headscratch: lol

 

You happen to have any pics of your box and where you have it mounted?

 

thx!

 

Capture.PNG

Edited by Striper46

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1 hour ago, Striper46 said:

 

Is it the 5 speed Minnkota rotary switch, this one?

Capture.PNG

That switch looks to be make / model specific & there's no vari either......

 

 

Minn kota had an expensive pwm at one point, not sure they sell it anymore, fleabay has  this one which might work for your set up.... cheap enough ... plenty more like it as well.

 

you'd need to check it out & throw it in a watertight box like r111

 

if you get it report back

 

Regards....

 

PWM.JPG.be0a7fca46a7848ece2d7d9f00aa81ed.JPG

 

Edited by BillZ

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4 hours ago, BillZ said:

That switch looks to be make / model specific & there's no vari either......

 

 

Minn kota had an expensive pwm at one point, not sure they sell it anymore, fleabay has  this one which might work for your set up.... cheap enough ... plenty more like it as well.

 

you'd need to check it out & throw it in a watertight box like r111

 

if you get it report back

 

Regards....

 

PWM.JPG.be0a7fca46a7848ece2d7d9f00aa81ed.JPG

 

That one is a total POS dont anyone get it.  I have 2 you could have for free to test your concept, but they all operate the same +/- from motor and +/- to battery.  It makes waaay to much noise something about the Khz it uses.

 

This was a year or 2 ago before i came to my senses and realized adding this to a revo11 wasnt going to work.  But it was a fun project lol

 

20181009_171144.jpg

Edited by gobigblue

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17 mins ago, gobigblue said:

That one is a total POS dont anyone get it.  I have 2 you could have for free to test your concept, but they all operate the same +/- from motor and +/- to battery.  It makes waaay to much noise something about the Khz it uses.

 

This was a year or 2 ago before i came to my senses and realized adding this to a revo11 wasnt going to work.  But it was a fun project lol

 

20181009_171144.jpg

is that how you wire it? basically just cut the +/- from motor to batteries and put the pwm in the line?

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I found these switches for the new head unit but I'm concerned about the wire gauge (14awg), I think all my wiring is 10 or 12awg, will these be a choke point?

 

Capture1.PNG

Capture2.PNG

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Posted (edited) · Report post

On 7/24/2019 at 11:22 AM, Striper46 said:

I'm thinking about completely replacing the head unit on the water snake with a waterproof junction box. I would like to use a PWM, so my question is; is it possible to bypass all the current switches and just use PWM with a dial that has a on/off position....omitting the forward/off/reverse and hi/low switch. I don't care to have reverse. thx!

Yep pulled my WS head off. I disconnected everything. I put a Home Depot junction box on the shaft to save the original wiring, thinking I may want to put it back together. (Probably never will) My boat is blue and white, so I painted my HD box white. I put a flat cap on the wire exit end, drilled a hole, and inserted a gland plug for the wires to run through. I used some wire loom to tidy up the wires. I drilled a hole on the shaft end of the HD box, and reused the WS head screw to attach the HD box to the motor shaft

 

A little while after the build, I  found this cool American flag/paddle sticker. There is one on each side of the motor head, properly militarily mirrored, so the flag is always advancing forward. It makes it go faster, better, stronger, longer :shaky:

 

Use the Red/black running down to the motor for pos/neg on the PWM. Disregard the short red and long blue wire. 

20190616_111535.jpg

20190802_141021.jpg

20190802_141035.jpg

Edited by FunN4Lo

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7 hours ago, FunN4Lo said:

Yep pulled my WS head off. I disconnected everything. I put a Home Depot junction box on the shaft to save the original wiring, thinking I may want to put it back together. (Probably never will) My boat is blue and white, so I painted my HD box white. I put a flat cap on the wire exit end, drilled a hole, and inserted a gland plug for the wires to run through. I used some wire loom to tidy up the wires. I drilled a hole on the shaft end of the HD box, and reused the WS head screw to attach the HD box to the motor shaft

 

A little while after the build, I  found this cool American flag/paddle sticker. There is one on each side of the motor head, properly militarily mirrored, so the flag is always advancing forward. It makes it go faster, better, stronger, longer :shaky:

 

Use the Red/black running down to the motor for pos/neg on the PWM. Disregard the short red and long blue wire. 

20190616_111535.jpg

20190802_141021.jpg

20190802_141035.jpg

Interesting........what exactly is the blue wire? I see when guys add pwm they keep the hi/low so they can keep the motor in high gear for full range, do you get full range like this? whats your low and highest speed? I assume your pwm has an off position on the dial? Any reverse? You have a picture of the inside of the box or the speed control end? thx :p

Edited by Striper46

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9 hours ago, FunN4Lo said:

 pulled my WS head off. I disconnected everything. I put a Home Depot junction box on the shaft to save the original wiring

..

.

drilled a hole, and inserted a gland plug for the wires to run through.

..

.

I used some wire loom to tidy up the wires. I drilled a hole on the shaft end of the HD box, and reused the WS head screw to attach the HD box to the motor shaft

 

You went thru the trouble to waterproof the control head electronics but it looks like you used split loom..... IMO, water can & probably will get in there eventually...

 

5d4d70d015f80_splitloom.jpg.4d4a286dea9077db6cca415130cffbfc.jpg

 

That "gland plug" you say you attached doesn't look like a watertight gland plug.... Its hard to see but looks like a reducing coupling with nothing else attached....

coupling.jpg.bd5b1681a4de3c54a177bbad0de8c6ed.jpg

 

I may be wrong but it looks like electrical tape around the loom & shoved in? ... if it is, it wont last long....

 

plug.jpg.36e9aca863035c025f5f65d435feffcd.jpg

 

This is what you want to use for a nice watertight connection,  closed plastic flexible conduit &  a watertight cord grip as well.......go to Mcmaster 

 

 

5d4d66b6de0da_flexibleconduit.JPG.189169dcf8beb4e68176c1b8d3f59a51.JPG

 

 

5d4d69bc975c0_cordgrip.JPG.375cea1ff731d3c27e06ed964b882786.JPG

 

Edited by BillZ

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1 hour ago, Striper46 said:

Interesting........what exactly is the blue wire? I see when guys add pwm they keep the hi/low so they can keep the motor in high gear for full range, do you get full range like this? whats your low and highest speed? I assume your pwm has an off position on the dial? Any reverse? You have a picture of the inside of the box or the speed control end? thx :p

The blue wire is part of the power sucking, heat generating, rheostat control. Thats what you are trying to get rid of with PWM and the power sipping potentiometer control. There is ZERO reason to have a high/low. Why would you ever want to run your power sipping infinitely variable PWM, back through the power sucking worthless 2 speed device? 

 

The PWM will give you all of the power the motor can produce. The same, or more as the high speed switch. So leaving the switch in, is just leaving a power sucking failure point in the system 

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1 hour ago, BillZ said:

You went thru the trouble to waterproof the control head electronics but it looks like you used split loom..... IMO, water can & probably will get in there eventually...

 

5d4d70d015f80_splitloom.jpg.4d4a286dea9077db6cca415130cffbfc.jpg

 

That "gland plug" you say you attached doesn't look like a watertight gland plug.... Its hard to see but looks like a reducing coupling with nothing else attached....

coupling.jpg.bd5b1681a4de3c54a177bbad0de8c6ed.jpg

 

I may be wrong but it looks like electrical tape around the loom & shoved in? ... if it is, it wont last long....

 

plug.jpg.36e9aca863035c025f5f65d435feffcd.jpg

 

This is what you want to use for a nice watertight connection,  closed plastic flexible conduit &  a watertight cord grip as well.......go to Mcmaster 

 

 

5d4d66b6de0da_flexibleconduit.JPG.189169dcf8beb4e68176c1b8d3f59a51.JPG

 

 

5d4d69bc975c0_cordgrip.JPG.375cea1ff731d3c27e06ed964b882786.JPG

 

You do not see what you "think" you see. 

 

I do not have a good "in progress build" pic of the top of the motor shaft. But here is an "in progress" build pic of my seat side controller. The same box as the shaft top box, and it is done the same way. The is an internal PVC plug inserted into the box. A hole was drilled in the plug. A gland plug inserted with silicone. Water tight as the south end of a north bound frog 

 

The leads from the motor are bare, if you leave it in factory form. So water proof wire loom matters... not.  I just thought the loom looked cool. The loom doesn't want to stay on the gland plug. Yes...my tape job looks like the south end of north bound Fido. But that is easily fixable :shaky:

20190610_153745.jpg

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