Striper46

Light weight Trolling motor battery

207 posts in this topic

38 mins ago, Striper46 said:

you think I can solder those connections or should i use ring connectors

you could solder them i guess but i dont see any reason to do that.  easier and just as efficient to crimp and solder the ring terminals on your wires, then make your connections tight and hot glue it in place.  thats what i do.  also, the less you mess with the pwm board the better, they can be fragile little bastids.

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11 mins ago, gobigblue said:

you could solder them i guess but i dont see any reason to do that.  easier and just as efficient to crimp and solder the ring terminals on your wires, then make your connections tight and hot glue it in place.  thats what i do.  also, the less you mess with the pwm board the better, they can be fragile little bastids.

cause soldering takes 2 seconds and zero money ....wouldnt touch the board at all

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18 mins ago, Striper46 said:

cause soldering takes 2 seconds and zero money ....wouldnt touch the board at all

the way i look at it is its the same reason you dont solder your battery cables in your car or boat to the battery and use ring terminals instead, i guess maybe not a great analogy

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4 hours ago, Striper46 said:

so on a dual battery set up should we have them both connected together?

I had that question too. But after watching that vid, I can now say no. If you look at all of the renderings in the vid, the last 2 batts in the parallel or series connections have one unconnected communication lead. 

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6 hours ago, BillZ said:

Found this vid some time ago,  Its not the U112RT specifically....probably the same set up.... it highlights some of the bms features in the Xp valance model, might help a little...

 

 

Good vid. It tells me what I already knew, but was wishing wasn't true. These are smart batteries, and I am not getting into the BMS with a DIY balance lead like you can with a dumb battery. 

 

I spent a short minute a little while back, trying to find a used Valance charger. I didn't find anything. I am guessing if I did, I wouldn't want to pay for it. And then if I found the charger, then I would want the CAN bus. Never ending.

 

I guess the prudent thing to do is just save my money for new batts when needed... or that new yak I have my eyes on :howdy:

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On 8/15/2019 at 9:55 PM, FunN4Lo said:

my batts were run down to just over 10V

 

I charged the batts with out the communication leads connected, until my charger shut down. Just like I have been doing

 

Then I plugged in the communication leads. I turned the charger back on, and it started charging again! I was able to put almost another full volt ,and almost 15AH into the combo. Pretty incredible! So I "assume"... without BMS info, one batt was getting charged before the other, and the topped out BMS, was shutting everything down

 

Try it, you might like it :shaky:

 

 

 

You originally posted that you had "pretty incredible" success with linking & you added 15AH to your pack then you changed your mind.......

 

20 hours ago, FunN4Lo said:

I had that question too. But after watching that vid, I can now say no. If you look at all of the renderings in the vid, the last 2 batts in the parallel or series connections have one unconnected communication lead. 

 

Yes, there has to be an unconnected lead,  to add more batteries to the cluster...

I initially  thought the same as you do now being it was only 2 batteries and not 12 or more.....Im not an expert on these batteries but  with regards to our 2 battery cluster i interpret this as being the batteries linked are individually protecting themselves, communicating with each other & auto balancing without anyone needing to  balance them individually,  manually or adding anything additional......

 

You pretty much proved that....What changed for you to do a complete 180 from the results you had linking them???

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On 8/17/2019 at 11:32 AM, BillZ said:

 

You originally posted that you had "pretty incredible" success with linking & you added 15AH to your pack then you changed your mind.......

 

 

Yes, there has to be an unconnected lead,  to add more batteries to the cluster...

I initially  thought the same as you do now being it was only 2 batteries and not 12 or more.....Im not an expert on these batteries but  with regards to our 2 battery cluster i interpret this as being the batteries linked are individually protecting themselves, communicating with each other & auto balancing without anyone needing to  balance them individually,  manually or adding anything additional......

 

You pretty much proved that....What changed for you to do a complete 180 from the results you had linking them???

Mr BillZ... sir

 

You are once more dazed and confused. First it was about what you saw in pictures. Now it is about what you read. RE-read.

 

I was replying to connecting BOTH communication leads. That is NOT the plan of Valance. Maybe you are smarter than the manufacture?!?!?

 

My point was.... again.... Valance left the end batts in their chain, whether it was a parallel or series connection, with one free communication lead. The chain did not connect back to itself

 

Therefore... where ONLY 2 batteries are connected.... as in my system, or ANY of us with 2 batts in a HF case,  EACH batt is also the end batt in the chain. So.... wait for it.... one communication lead is left free on each batt.... while one communication lead of each batt is connected

 

Mr BillZ... sir...

 

Jealousy has never looked good on you... yet... you continue to wear it. Change your outfit, it is unbecoming  :howdy:

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Posted (edited) · Report post

19 hours ago, FunN4Lo said:

Mr BillZ... sir

 

You are once more dazed and confused. First it was about what you saw in pictures. Now it is about what you read. RE-read.

 

I was replying to connecting BOTH communication leads. That is NOT the plan of Valance. Maybe you are smarter than the manufacture?!?!?

 

My point was.... again.... Valance left the end batts in their chain, whether it was a parallel or series connection, with one free communication lead. The chain did not connect back to itself

 

Therefore... where ONLY 2 batteries are connected.... as in my system, or ANY of us with 2 batts in a HF case,  EACH batt is also the end batt in the chain. So.... wait for it.... one communication lead is left free on each batt.... while one communication lead of each batt is connected

 

Mr BillZ... sir...

 

Jealousy has never looked good on you... yet... you continue to wear it. Change your outfit, it is unbecoming  :howdy:

 

 

Yes, i may have mis-read this post below…. seemed to me like the question was referring to linking the batteries not connecting both the leads...

Capture.JPG.8708c684812f29e1c8368942f8ec8c2b.JPG

 

What I left was a real, valid & civil question for you, looked like you successfully linked the batts. then suggested not linking them…

 

I never said anything about connecting both leads together or having the chain connect back to itself, only you said I did…..Show me where I said that…..

 

The rest of your post only shows your true character & reaffirms what I posted earlier in this thread :dismay:

 

Jealously? lol :laugh:…. Toot-Toot!! :moon:

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by BillZ

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Posted (edited) · Report post

wired the pwm on the watersnake this weekend, I haven't been able to test it but the speed control is awesome! You really get the motors full potential from it. Before the reverse had more juice then the 2 forward speeds, with the switch you get that exact juice in forward and reverse. excited to try it.

CAF3B0C9-EA4E-4526-9AAA-8C5E60A4F82A.jpeg

Edited by Striper46

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Anyone know how hot these pwm switches get? Will they melt wires or rubber if touching?

Edited by Striper46

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On 8/27/2019 at 11:20 AM, Striper46 said:

Anyone know how hot these pwm switches get? Will they melt wires or rubber if touching?

PWMs have a bunch of heat sinks, so they must get fairly hot. How hot? I have not measured the actual pwm. But after about 2 hours of running WOT, measured with an IR gun my project box was 123° on the top.  There is a large air gap between the top and pwm. My pwm is in my box on stand-offs, (screw/nuts) on a piece of cutting board, and the cutting board is attached to the bottom of the project box on stand-offs. So the pwm has a small double air gap at the bottom, and is not in direct contact with the project box 

20190611_181406.jpg

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The HF 3800 case was an awesome idea by someone for double Valence batts . I copied that idea like a xerox machine. It has worked well, in my tank well

 

But I want to move my batts into my haul. The 3800 case will not fit in my largest hatch. Has anyone found an equally awesome water proof single batt case? 

 

 

20190910_114941.jpg

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8 hours ago, FunN4Lo said:

PWMs have a bunch of heat sinks, so they must get fairly hot. How hot? I have not measured the actual pwm. But after about 2 hours of running WOT, measured with an IR gun my project box was 123° on the top.  There is a large air gap between the top and pwm. My pwm is in my box on stand-offs, (screw/nuts) on a piece of cutting board, and the cutting board is attached to the bottom of the project box on stand-offs. So the pwm has a small double air gap at the bottom, and is not in direct contact with the project box 

20190611_181406.jpg

Thanks. I figured it out after using for 6 hours straight that it got pretty hot, it gets hot enough that it could burn/melt very small gauge wires like the ones that are pre-wire on the pwm. mine is propped up off the bottom with hot glue and gromments lol I also took a small fan from a graphic card i had sitting around and mounted that on the pwm

FB075EE8-7BF2-473F-8A21-460313923774.jpeg

C35673D0-73F8-4207-8416-FF67C86D7393.jpeg

Edited by Striper46

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