Striper46

Light weight Trolling motor battery

203 posts in this topic

ive also used this one, but not on the kayak its pretty bulky but works fine.  doesnt have reverse but i was using it on a minn kota which had reverse anyway.  the only "bad" pwm ive ever had a was a super cheap ebay purchase that had a pwm frequency of 200hz and made an ungodly buzzing/shrieking sound.  i would def not recommend that one.wfwfwf.JPG.51735da4359ff9fa3a2dff8be9567b0a.JPG

 

 

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I don’t completely disagree in regards to the XT90, but the gold plating doesn’t corrode. I personally use Anderson connectors but many don’t like them either. They are easier for me to work with and I like them with #8 wire.  Of course I also use a battery tender connector from my trolling motor to thru hull. No common sense..

 

I use the wireless controller from Gama. Mine has worked well, but the reviews are all over the map on it.  My batteries and controller are in front hatch to balance weight of motor on rear. I’m not sure I would do that again vs just putting it all in a case on the back.  

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22 hours ago, gobigblue said:

i dont think tim allows amazon links around here, but this is the one i use on my watersnake:

pros - its TINY compared to other PWMs and fits perfectly inside the head unit.  i ran the knob right through the existing knob.  its a super clean and simple install.

cons - it doesnt have reverse(which is solved by leaving the forward&reverse oem switch within the housing.  the knob doesnt click OFF when turned all the way down, but the motor stops, not really sure if thats any kind of issue or not.  hasnt affected me in the least.

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I think i'm just gonna scrap my watersnake but do you know the size of this pwm or the max size will fit in a gutted(ribs,handle & switches)watersnake head?

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1 hour ago, Striper46 said:

I think i'm just gonna scrap my watersnake but do you know the size of this pwm or the max size will fit in a gutted(ribs,handle & switches)watersnake head?

I can measure it when i get home.  If you are not using the oem watersnake head i wouldnt recommend this pwm.  The only reason to use it would be if you are keeping the head unit or want to use a really small junction box.

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On 8/12/2019 at 8:51 PM, BillZ said:

Lol..... i was pretty much sharing my experience of how long that similar crappy sae connector your using lasted me in the real world but your way above us all, you know much more than everyone.... i can see it now...:dismay:

I don't think i see what i think i see?....Are you for real? Looks like a cord grip installed in the top of your box. :why:

un-finished this & that, childs play, fantabulousness of you'r work? oh man Lol..... whatever dude.

 

You seem like the guy that likes to toot his own horn ALOT

Have a great season, go get em killer:wave:

No horn tooting involved. I would have never mentioned any of that... if I wasn't correcting multiple inaccurate assumptions.

 

When I see something that I believe is wack-a-doo in a DIY post. I ask the poster questions about what I see, to determine where they are at, do they have a good understanding of what they are doing, or are they dazed and confused and need help. (without asking them any of those questions) As in...

 

Why do you have your power connection sticking straight up out of your batt box?

Because where I stick my box on the yak, the PWM connection comes from straight above. And... when I don't want to remove the batt box, it is an easy reach to plug my in my charger, which is also coming from straight above 

 

But if I would have said... I dunno, my wire is being pulled on pretty hard and bending down, is that bad? Then all of your info would be fantabulous 

 

When someone sees something that they "believe" is wack-a-doo, and then proceeds to give a ton of advice that did not start from a knowledge of the pic posters situation... is horn tooting. IMHO

 

And... sometimes when I see something I think is wack-a-doo, and I ask questions first, instead of giving the how-to first, sometimes I find the poster had a better idea than me. :shaky:

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Negative goes from battery straight to pwm. The positive goes from battery to breaker and then from other side of breaker to pwm.

 

the breaker also has a trip switch so you can use it as a master disconnect 

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I do not have any access to BMS info from the Valence batts that started this thread. It has been driving me crazy. :banghd:

 

I "assume" the Valence BMS is doing its thing with the individual batts. (although I would rather know, than assume). But I have my batts in the HF case, connected in parallel, and I have run and charged them in that fashion, since the initial individual charge I did after I bought them. I would also like to know what is happening within the parallel combo

 

I bought some M381 connectors, and I already had ton of 4sJST connectors. I was quite positive I was going to DIY a balance lead, and then connect my balance charger, to monitor the individual BMS. And also to make sure the 2 separate batts were staying balanced in their parallel combo 

 

But after multiple tests, I am not getting the expected voltage readings out of the individual pins, from either the male or female communication leads, that would be typical of a 4s batt balance lead. So I am a bit afraid to wire up my DIY balance lead. I have searched the interwebs over, and I can not find any info to confirm or refute my voltage assumptions, based on a normal 4s BMS. 

 

I gave up for a while. I just stared my search again. I still haven't found any info on the individual pin readings, but I found this vid. This guy does solar power bank videos. He just discovered the Valance batts. He plugged the communication leads from 2 batts together in his parallel connection.

 

Thats a face palm moment for me! :eek: But, I don't think I have seen that done by anyone else here either?!? 

 

I have just run my tandem yak, with my wife and I, along with too much back country gear, all over Fontana Lake on the boarder of the Smoky Mountains NP, while on vacation. So my batts were run down to just over 10V

 

I charged the batts with out the communication leads connected, until my charger shut down. Just like I have been doing

 

Then I plugged in the communication leads. I turned the charger back on, and it started charging again! I was able to put almost another full volt ,and almost 15AH into the combo. Pretty incredible! So I "assume"... without BMS info, one batt was getting charged before the other, and the topped out BMS, was shutting everything down

 

Try it, you might like it :shaky:

 

 

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11 hours ago, FunN4Lo said:

I do not have any access to BMS info from the Valence batts that started this thread. It has been driving me crazy. :banghd:

 

I "assume" the Valence BMS is doing its thing with the individual batts. (although I would rather know, than assume). But I have my batts in the HF case, connected in parallel, and I have run and charged them in that fashion, since the initial individual charge I did after I bought them. I would also like to know what is happening within the parallel combo

 

 

Found this vid some time ago,  Its not the U112RT specifically....probably the same set up.... it highlights some of the bms features in the Xp valance model, might help a little...

 

 

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1 hour ago, BillZ said:

Found this vid some time ago,  Its not the U112RT specifically....probably the same set up.... it highlights some of the bms features in the Xp valance model, might help a little...

 

 

so on a dual battery set up should we have them both connected together?

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Posted (edited) · Report post

1 hour ago, Striper46 said:

so on a dual battery set up should we have them both connected together?

I don’t think I can accurately, or fully answer that,..

 

In the past I’ve had my communication lines disconnected .... I saw that vid prior to funN4Lo  posting it & connected them together (about a month ago), they’ve been connected ever since.

 

I have also parallel charged the batteries without communication connected, un-linked them, checked voltage on each one, then then threw each one back on the charger individually to see if one was charged more than the other……keep in mind i don't fully deplete the batteries & i charge them after each use..

 

After my charger checked each battery separately, it cycled thru to float at (or about) the same rate which suggested to me the batteries were equally charged. Or not detrimentally different, I also did that after parallel charging with the communication cables connected & got the same result….

 

Can’t say one would get the same result with 2 un-matched batteries.... i originally charged mine independently before connecting in parallel..

 

I was initially under the impression that daisy chaining the communications was part of a bigger system involving a master BMS, charging capabilities, etc as each battery's individual BMS controlled itself anyway,...

Does the linking of the communications further balance the cells? ... does the 2 batteries communicating with each other manage any cell voltage variance between the 2 units?  makes sense if it is, hard to tell whats actually going  on.... its not hurting anything, probably helping & I’m about a month in on having them linked…...like i said, cant accurately answer your question...

 

I usually float the batteries on the charger for a while when their done anyway to be sure balancing has time.

 

Edited by BillZ
Misspelled word

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Posted (edited) · Report post

On 8/15/2019 at 9:20 AM, gobigblue said:

Heres the 2 pwms ive used with measurements

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you think I can solder those connections or should i use ring connectors

Edited by Striper46

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