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Fishin Technician

FORE GRIP vs REGULAR ON A 11 WT.

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31 posts in this topic

FT

 

It really is not difficult to remove the extra grip. Take your time and use right tools and you can do it yourself.

 

Seems like a lot of money but it is the time it takes and the blank needs to be re finished once the epoxy is cleaned off.

scraping the epoxy off is the most skilful part of the process as you can’t risk the blank.

 

mike

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I made a call to Sage today and at first spoke to someone in the repair department who was not sure if the were able to remove the fore grip, so he transferred me to a "technician" who said that they would not attempt to remove it do to possible damage to the blank. I can see his point of saying that this is their policy. The heat and scraping could ruin the rod he stated. I was told it is the exact same blank as my RPLX-1190 2 section and that he felt that the fore grip will not hinder or change the casting characteristics and that both 11's should feel similar.

 

His final advice was to ignore the fore grip and leave well enough alone. Another bit of information that he did mention was that even if I sent the rod in for a new butt section do to normal breakage, Sage always rebuilds and repairs to the original specs and format, which is a good thing. I actually said to him that I would never intentionally break a rod to get an upgrade, he said that too many people pulled that and that is the reason for orvis, ll bean and others changing their lifetime guarantees.

Regards,

FT

Edited by Fishin Technician

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Removing the cork if done carefully should not be that big a deal, the cured adhesive under it can be an issue. Options are careful application of warming and peeling, and there are several chemical options. If you want to try it when you're in my area we could mess with it, but it's risky. I was exposed to some chemicals doing disaster relief that left me with a permanent skin condition and pretty much ended my plan to play music in retirement, so you have to be really careful with some of this stuff. But we could start with milder solvents and slowly work our way up, then use some rod resin to give it a nice finish. Once the stripers start running let me know your travel plans, we can experiment.

Edited by stormy monday

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2 mins ago, Fishin Technician said:

I am going to keep it as it was made..................why mess up a 1967 Corvette!  :-)

You want to borrow it for PR?

 

FT

Ah thanks man, leaving at 6:15 am tomorrow! From shore though most anything I'm going to catch will be fine on a 9 weight (has 2 tips just in case!). Last time I threw my 10 it killed my elbow and although I'm mostly healed now I'm gun shy! The only place I know where I can get into a legit 10 weight tarpon puts me in the company of 12 weight bull sharks so I'l be content with the juvies and live to see another day

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OK, No problem.

 

Myself, I prefer a good old 10 wt over a 9, but again Spring of this year has not sprung and maybe my past abilities in body are now degraded to a level 8 rod!. I was always the young kid on the team and there is no team left except me.  I could be a #7  for all that I know.

:)

 

FT

 

 

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Ok you are  leaving well be. Probably best decision if you are not a skilled rod builder.

 

just for info absolutely no need to use solvents to ty and remove epoxy, Epoxy is pretty solvent resistive. Your rod has epoxy in the pre preg. Too risky. To rod and health.

 

You don’t need heat either.

 

The cork is tough to get off and just one slip and your blanks toast if you use a blade. You could turn it off but time consuming.

 

The old epoxy is removed with a sharp blade held at 90 to long axis and moved back and forth. Messy and carries some risk of maybe cutting blank.

 

You  are left with a messy blank that needs re finishing. That is not easy to do well.

 

You can see why Sage don’t want to do it. It also becomes a special and out side their normal product range.

 

When we buy a factory rod we get what we get.

 

In the day the solution would have been to buy a blank and build it how you want it. That day is long past.

 

I just reminded myself why I never want ever again to agree to remove worn snake guides clean up and re tye on new ones.

 

I wonder how Sage and others manage rod returns for worn out snake guides.

 

I can’t see them spending the time and taking the risk plus the re work is never perfect.

 

No one has ever mentioned returning rods due to worn metal guides.

 

Funny that.

 

mike 

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Mike

Guides today are pretty tough.  Except for the spinning guides with inserts  They seem to get banged up and fall out?  The guides that wear are the top two and tip top most of the time.  Guys would bring there rod to me for a tip top and didn't even know that they were missing an insert in one of the running guides.

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JRT

 

You could try that. Would need to put a slot/slit in the grip to snap it over the blank.

 

The big issue is the grip rotating when fighting a fish. If you have ever had a cork handle go lose on you then you would know just how bad that is.

All control is lost.

 

mike

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31 mins ago, JRT said:

Is there anything wrong with sliding on a grip/foam when you hook up?

No but you need to understand that breaking the rod comes much easier when the force you can input increase a lot and especially if rod blank is not designed for a fighting handle.

 

Esa

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28 mins ago, JRT said:

Is there anything wrong with sliding on a grip/foam when you hook up?

If there is no guide on the butt section it’s easy  do it before hand  some Eva grips with small diameters will fit tight without glue.  If you don’t like it just take it off ?  You can try it ? 

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Yes you will get a better outcome if you use a tight fitting grip which you slide onto the butt section of a four piece rod that typically has no guides on that section. But it will still rotate and that is pants big time.

 

Esa makes a strong case for caution to.

 

could it be that fly rods are pushed beyond sensible limits some of them.

 

My own view is if it really needs a fighting fore grip I should be using way more rod. Maybe a blue water rod that has a very long grip and has more in common with a 20 lb class boat rod than what we all recognise as a fly rod.

 

Just a few thoughts 

 

oly

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I have put in some really tight EVA grips.  One trick I use is to put the grip in hot water , that softens it up and then I pour Dawn dish soap down the middle of it to make it slid better  put some on the rod also to keep it wet .   Once I get it slidding down, I don’t stop until it bottoms out . When it drys after a day on so It’s so tight it doesn’t move .

 

 

Edited by ccb

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