viper2788

Clean removale of guides/epoxy

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I'm looking to re-space my guides on one of my rods and I want some opinions on how to remove the epoxy as cleanly as possible. Since the new guides will be spaced differently, I dont want scratches or marks from the previous guides on the blank. I saw a video on youtube where a guy uses a popsicle stick and denatured alcohol to remove any remaining epoxy after getting the guides off... it looked clean but it was on a bare carbon fiber blank(clear coated). Could this work on a factory painted blank? The epoxy used is procote FYI. Thanks in advance

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With a razor cut on top of the guide feet and ONLY on top of the guide feet through the epoxy and thread (you don't want to risk cutting into the blank so only on top of the guide feet!!), remove guides

Find tag end of threads and hand spin em off, should take the majority of the epoxy with it (and will make a mess, try to do it outside, not on the wife's carpets)

Use a single edge razor held at a 90 degree angle, scrape off any epoxy still on the blank. Never angle it forward, you don't want to cut into the blank (think that't the 4th time I've mentioned that you don't want to cut into the blank)

That should have it cleaned up, but if you remount the guides in different spots you'll still be able to see where the old guides were.

The only way I've found that really does a good job fixing this is to take a very wide tip Sharpie brand marker and "paint" the entire blank, let it dry completely then give it a thin wipe of PermaGloss 

I do this to old Harnells I rebuild and they look virtually brand new

 

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And once you open the bottle of PermaGloss you need to use it all as it completely hardens up inside the bottle really quickly

(If anyone knows a way to keep this from happening I'd love to hear it)

Always buy the smallest bottle possible and try to do multiple rods / lures / jig heads at a time

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1 hour ago, Sudsy said:

And once you open the bottle of PermaGloss you need to use it all as it completely hardens up inside the bottle really quickly

(If anyone knows a way to keep this from happening I'd love to hear it)

Always buy the smallest bottle possible and try to do multiple rods / lures / jig heads at a time

Double baged in zip locks, store in the fridge. 

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You might be able to get the area clean of the old guides with a fine scotch bright and then buff/wax it to get the shine back, I’ve had this work before. If not, I would clean the blank with DNA then coat it in Permagloss 

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14 hours ago, Sudsy said:

And once you open the bottle of PermaGloss you need to use it all as it completely hardens up inside the bottle really quickly

(If anyone knows a way to keep this from happening I'd love to hear it)

Always buy the smallest bottle possible and try to do multiple rods / lures / jig heads at a time

In addition to the Ziploc in the fridge, I throw some uncooked rice in the bag. Permagloss is moisture cure, so the key is to keep moisture away. I've kept a bottle this way for 8 months.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

19 hours ago, tfucini said:

You might be able to get the area clean of the old guides with a fine scotch bright and then buff/wax it to get the shine back, I’ve had this work before. If not, I would clean the blank with DNA then coat it in Permagloss 

I just got done removing all the guides and theyre cleaning up very well with DNA. I pretty much have the factory finish back. You think its beneficial to still coat in Permagloss prior to wrapping on guides?

Edited by viper2788

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1 hour ago, viper2788 said:

I just got done removing all the guides and theyre cleaning up very well with DNA. I pretty much have the factory finish back. You think its beneficial to still coat in Permagloss prior to wrapping on guides?

If you’re happy with how the blank looks currently then I wouldn’t waste the time permaglossing it. I’ve stripped rods where I didn’t have to coat the blank and it looked good as new. IMO I’d only permagloss when I need to refinish the blank and there are still marks from the old guides (if I’m repositioning them) or if the blank is beat up looking. No reason to do it if it looks good after stripping.

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