xjclint

Budget TH Beach Rod

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Angler’s Roost put out some blanks for short money. One of the guys fished one in Montauk and it was more suited to the rivers. But they may have blanks suitable. Just need to ask the question.

 

mikey

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Mike

 

All the 12x12 rods ever made (TFO, T&T) are single hand rating. So basically transitional TH rods as JimDE called them ages ago. 

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Red

 

Same as the T and T 12x12.  So just a bit short of grains as we see things.

But when I first kicked off I really wanted a T and T 12x12. Never did get one. It seemed a logical progression from single hand rods.

It did not take too long before the penny dropped and the realisation came that we needed more grain  capability and more power. So I stopped chasing after one.

mike

 

 

Edited by Mike Oliver

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Exactly Mike. What we got was a 12x12 but what we actually needed was a 15x15. 12 feet too short to really take advantage of the TH platform and 12wt single handed way too light. Our 550 lines are close to nominal 15wts single hand rating. 

 

My MkIII had the hi build put on yesterday. Tomorrow I cast it for the first time. 

Edited by RedGreen

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Mike,

  Unfortunately Johnny passed away last December and currently Angler's Roost is not selling anything right now according to their website.  I hope his wife finds someone to buy the business.  I have a half dozen of his blanks (IM6 and UHM) and really like them for spey type casts.  I have not tried my UHM 12' 7/8 for overhead casting but I will as part of my testing process over the next month.

 

The Maddragon showed up a few minutes ago.  Good lord it is a beast!  Much more like a surf rod then fly rod.  We shall see but my initial impression makes me wonder: When does the rod stop being a fly rod and simply become a surf rod throwing a really heavy fly line?  In my mind there is a difference.  Much like the difference between throwing a 7wt and a 14wt.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Qecfly

 

Sorry to hear that Johnny has passed. The UHM may work for you. Taper is also,key and diameter alongside the modulus of the material.

 

Thats a good question. Hard to answer verbally,

 

But think about fresh water Spey rods. Some of them are rated to cast over 700 grains and we would not consider them to be a surf rod.

 

A  TH rod that can throw 550 up to 650 is not going to feel like a surf rod and yet it will cope with Out Front conditions and be a lot of fun to use. The caveat is cope with say 650 grains but have enough left to,cope with the effects of the wind and surf.

Your Maddragon will feel very differently when you have a line on it.

 

I would not enjoy casting a 14 wt on a SH rod. On a TH it is a piece of cake.

 

Mike

Edited by Mike Oliver

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Red

 

Reason we did not get it was fear factor. 

 

Plus reading this thread also also gives an insight.

 

We have meandered a tad. I hope OP managed to get enough info to answer his original question. Maybe a bit of added value to with all the discussion.

 

Good luck with your new build.

 

mike

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1 hour ago, qecfly said:

The Maddragon showed up a few minutes ago.  Good lord it is a beast!  Much more like a surf rod then fly rod.  We shall see but my initial impression makes me wonder: When does the rod stop being a fly rod and simply become a surf rod throwing a really heavy fly line?  In my mind there is a difference.  Much like the difference between throwing a 7wt and a 14wt.

If you can weight it it will reveal how advanced carbon fiber technology it is built of. It is the high weight which make rod ugly to cast and fish and because Carp fishing is mostly waiting the bite and fishing day see much less casting than we fly anglers do so they do not need to be very light. Carp can be huge so rod needs to be strong as well.

 

I have found only one really light weight carp rod which is Daiwa Emcast 12ft 2.75lbs which weights only 220g (7.76oz). Perhaps there has been a mistake when they chose the blank before building because now I have seen them listed weight 110g more? Often even very expensive carp rods are not light weight.

 

Esa

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Mike/Redgreen/Esa,

  What are you guys terminating the end of the skagit line with.  Let's say you are using a 500gr line.  Are you adding 50 - 100gr of sink tip material looped on?  After the sink tip a normal 3 - 9' straight mono/floro leader?

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I have thread wrap variety of tapers to improve line loops. Loop to loop connection is fine as well. I have made most of my salt water front tapers/tips from Scandi and Spey head/line rear tapers. Also cheap so called "mill end" DT lines usually have very short tapers sometimes only 5ft.

 

I use sharp blade and slice half of the coating away pushing carefully against the core and then glue cores together using CA and then thread wrap and coat thread with polyurethane glue. First photo is after CA glue and slight smoothing with a blade and second is wrapped and PU coated.

 

Esa

IMG-0755.JPG

IMG-0775.JPG

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Qecfly

 

Mostly I don’t fish skagit lines. I have 530 grain lines in an integrated format. Well until they wear out.

 

I do have them. I try to get a total head and tip section length no more than 35 feet long. I fit the various tips depending on how deep I want to fish my line.

 

These newish Triple density skagit lines are very well worth looking into.

 

Also the lines sold by Salmon Logic.

 

After that I will do want Esa does and look at Scandi  lines and old DT lines and try and build my own lines.

 

mike

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47 mins ago, qecfly said:

Mike/Redgreen/Esa,

  What are you guys terminating the end of the skagit line with.  Let's say you are using a 500gr line.  Are you adding 50 - 100gr of sink tip material looped on?  After the sink tip a normal 3 - 9' straight mono/floro leader?

I am adding a tip cut from the head of a cheap 12 or 13wt line usually 15' long. The difference in mass/length density at the side of a Skagit head where the tip loops on is pretty similar to a 12 or 13wt single handed line so effectively it makes a pop bottle taper than has good punch but also roll casts very well. 

 

Scandi heads can be pressed into service the same way but you have to cut the tips off as they are too delicate and fine for out front fishing. Skagit heads are usually cheaper too and you can make very heavy shooting heads with a lot of punch very easily. 

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Airflo Compact Skagit is good material because they come heavy and are cheap. Other end has 8ft quite good taper where it thins to about 70% diameter. Other end has about 4ft taper which thins to about 75%. Vision Skagit has the same taper and it comes as full intermediate and sink3.

 

Quite good floating belly is Rio Flight and it usually sell very cheap as used because longer Skagit bellys are not used much anymore. I have 750gr and with big fly it casts good with just a mono leader. I have TH cast it quite a lot for fish using Fenwick Aetos 10ft Spinning rod when wind is strong.

 

Esa

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Brokeoff,

 

Not for me it's not. The equipment is a means to catch fish which for me is the goal. If I've got what I need I don't bother with more equipment or really talk about it much. I'm much more focused on actually fishing and applying everything. 

Edited by RedGreen

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