drumfish213

Xterra Brake Lights Out

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Posted (edited) · Report post

2009 Nissan Xterra, aftermarket remote start, aftermarket towing harness

 

Recently the VDC off and Slip lights started showing up on the dash intermittently and for no explainable reason. At about the same time the truck kept running once I took the keys out when I had used the remote start to start the car. Running I could even put it into drive (with no keys in the ignition). Also just realized that the brake lights are all out (including the third top light). I get an error code C1116: stop lamp error fault.

 

Here is what I have figured out so far:

Fuse for electronic back up was blown. Replaced, lights worked again. Fuse blew within 10 miles.

Stoplight switch (that plugs into the brake pedal area) replaced, did not solve issue. 

 

This forum has solved a lot of strange problems in my home, let's see how good you are with trucks!

Thanks everyone.

 

Edited by drumfish213
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Possibly a short somewhere. Those can be tough to track down though. I'll ask a few buddies in the garage at work and see if they can come up with any ideas.

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9 mins ago, chitala383 said:

Possibly a short somewhere. Those can be tough to track down though. I'll ask a few buddies in the garage at work and see if they can come up with any ideas.

Thanks. Much appreciated. I figured it was a short somewhere and you helped confirm it, just trying to narrow down leads now if possible. 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Did you install the alarm,have it done "professionally"or was it in vehicle when you bought it? Electronic backup??

Have dealt with lots of vehicles with strange problems where aftermarket alarms were involved. Some were faults with alarm itself,more often  it was lack of quality install. Sketchy scothlock connections, fistfuls of extra harness zip tied "out of the way" that ended up rubbing on brake pedal arms til insulation wore away causing intermittent shorts. Your mention of car remaining running with key off/out of ignition could be internal relay in alarm malfunctioning or a questionable ground in alarm wiring causing feedback in alarm circuits.

 

Suggest putting eyes on all the wiring for alarm,put eyes on trailer harness for possible damage. Scan for codes to see what's stored regarding lights that lit up on dash,do you have a have/had a check engine light on,even if intermittent? VDC codes could be caused by a failing wheel speed sensor. Sometimes a small piece of rotor rust can stick to the magnet of wheel speed sensor corrupting its output signal intermittently. A scan tool or a lab scope would allow monitoring of sensor output.

 

Diagnostics is logical process of elimination of a component as a cause. You may want to separate alarm from car wiring by disconnecting it and drive car for a time to see if symptoms persist or not.

Edited by modelcitizen
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8 hours ago, modelcitizen said:

Did you install the alarm,have it done "professionally"or was it in vehicle when you bought it? Electronic backup??

Have dealt with lots of vehicles with strange problems where aftermarket alarms were involved. Some were faults with alarm itself,more often  it was lack of quality install. Sketchy scothlock connections, fistfuls of extra harness zip tied "out of the way" that ended up rubbing on brake pedal arms til insulation wore away causing intermittent shorts. Your mention of car remaining running with key off/out of ignition could be internal relay in alarm malfunctioning or a questionable ground in alarm wiring causing feedback in alarm circuits.

 

Suggest putting eyes on all the wiring for alarm,put eyes on trailer harness for possible damage. Scan for codes to see what's stored regarding lights that lit up on dash,do you have a have/had a check engine light on,even if intermittent? VDC codes could be caused by a failing wheel speed sensor. Sometimes a small piece of rotor rust can stick to the magnet of wheel speed sensor corrupting its output signal intermittently. A scan tool or a lab scope would allow monitoring of sensor output.

 

Diagnostics is logical process of elimination of a component as a cause. You may want to separate alarm from car wiring by disconnecting it and drive car for a time to see if symptoms persist or not.

Remote start was professionally installed by a reputable company.

No check engine light has come on.

 

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Update: took a while but after bringing it in to a shop determined that it was the aftermarket trailer light wiring (warning: never use UHaul for this job). Somewhere along the line it was causing a short. Disconnected the hitch wiring and issue resolved. Reconnected it and blew the fuse again. Thanks for all the help everyone.

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U haul and their ilk do the same type of work as a lot of alarm/remote start installers and why one of suggestions i gave you was to look into trailer harness wiring. Good you got it figured out. What's your plan on resolving trailer light harness issue?

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