Aaron Barmmer

Best braid for cow bass in Boulder fields

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46 posts in this topic

16 mins ago, Lord Helmet said:

Don’t know where OP is fishing but a good tip I picked up for Montauk is loosing your drag if a big fish runs and wraps you around a rock. Hopefully the line will slide over the rock and it won’t break you off. I don’t care how heavy your braid is, if you hook a hook a trophey bass you ain’t horsing him in on the initial run. 

 

But for an initial hook set I like a tight drag where that hook is getting buried in the fishes jaw. For big fish, setting the hook more than once gives me some more confidence knowing that hook isn’t popping out. I lost, without a doubt, the biggest of my life  on a late night tide in montauk from not setting the hook more than once. Hook popped out on the initial run towards a massive boulder 50 yards out. A few casts later another fish broke me off and took my BM eel skin needle on that same boulder. A few casts after that my buddy was weighing his 1st 40#. 

 

Each situation is always different but lose enough big fish and you’ll hopefully get an idea. 

Wow that sounds like a terrible but also epic night! I can relate to that. Major bummer. 

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43 mins ago, Aaron Barmmer said:

Wow that sounds like a terrible but also epic night! I can relate to that. Major bummer. 

That night haunts me the most, also lost some nice fish on the lip of sand beaches more times than I care to admit. But I think we all live for those nights. 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Tuffline xp. I used to use it on a 525 for bait fishing. It was either 65 or 80. Also used it for cod fishing up north and tilefish. Same line lasted for years and eventually ended up on my surf setup. Very waxy and abrasion resistant, I couldn't see it breaking under any situation and it never showed any signs of wear. Much thicker than regular braid though from what I remember. I would probably go with 30lb fireline though and a heavy leader. 

Edited by Big Will

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On 2/8/2019 at 4:13 PM, Livefreeordie said:

I don't know that any braid will hold up to being dragged across rocks under tension. And, while I agree with blacklabnh, that it is important to really get after the fish, and start moving it towards you quickly; I also know that not all applications lend well to this technique.

One time, at a spot, I was fishing with a cheapo 10' heavy action rod, and catching some nice fish. As soon as I felt the hit, I started winching, and although the fish took some drag, it seemed that lifting 'em up immediately helped a great deal. The fish seemed to flee into the current instead of burying into the boulders directly under where the hits were happening. But, my friend had an expensive rod, one that could fling a wide weight range, with a flimsy upper 2'. When he finally got a hit (he said it was a good fish) he did immediately set the hook, but the fish dove, and the braid sheered off on the rocks. He was pissed...had to re-tie as the tide died down to low, and the bite died, too.

 

So, while it seems obvious, that the correct equipment (a rod that can lift fast) helps....what do you do when you need to flip light lures over boulders, and only a flimsy tipped rod will get you the distance? Vertical is easier to lift, IMO, than horizontal fishing. And, I admit I'm no expert...I've only been sheered off or buried in boulders by bass a few times, mostly because I was asleep at the wheel....fishing for an hour, when suddenly I got hit, resulting in a lazy hookset.

Once you get a good bass on braid that’s rubbing against boulders, the test  of your braid doesn’t matter all that much. It’ll fray and snap pretty quickly. I used to think heavier braid would fix that problem for me, but it’s a much better bet to set the hook quickly and aggressively so that you have the hold on it to muscle it towards the surface and reduce the possibility of them taking a turn and rubbing your main line on the rocks.

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3 hours ago, Shane_O said:

Once you get a good bass on braid that’s rubbing against boulders, the test  of your braid doesn’t matter all that much. It’ll fray and snap pretty quickly. I used to think heavier braid would fix that problem for me, but it’s a much better bet to set the hook quickly and aggressively so that you have the hold on it to muscle it towards the surface and reduce the possibility of them taking a turn and rubbing your main line on the rocks.

Sometimes I like to fish topwater on a locked drag so I can stand the fish on their heads. If you do it right the back half of the fish comes out of the water and they try to swim in the air.  After you get them out of the water you can usually water ski a 30 inch fish, but your reel does suffer from that kind of silliness.

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Interesting how varied responses are. Like some others have commented, I don't think heavy braid will do ya much good on rocks as far as breaking off on them. Heavier leader will. Last few seasons I've fished more rocky spots than beach and run 20-30lb braid with 25-30lb leader. Call it luck but have never had a  big issue with breaking off. I do check leader often and replace if frayed. Always have felt that for stripers, anything over 30-40lb braid is overkill. I think that turning a fish quickly and pumping that thing in helps more than a heavy braid. 

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9 hours ago, Shane_O said:

Once you get a good bass on braid that’s rubbing against boulders, the test  of your braid doesn’t matter all that much. It’ll fray and snap pretty quickly. I used to think heavier braid would fix that problem for me, but it’s a much better bet to set the hook quickly and aggressively so that you have the hold on it to muscle it towards the surface and reduce the possibility of them taking a turn and rubbing your main line on the rocks.

Used to have a similar problem. Bought a rod with a heavier backbone for around the rocks and had better control. Some of the Maine guys should chime in on this, their coastline is braids worst nightmare.

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1 min ago, SlackTideBri said:

 Maine guys should chime in on this, their coastline is braids worst nightmare.

Maine guy here. Our rocks r more rocky than other rocks!!! Lol. 

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I've done just fine with 65 lb pp with an 80 lb mono leader. Mono is way more abrasion resistant than fluro and it doesn't seem to matter much to the fish either. You do lose some distance with the 65 but it's good to have when you know there's big fish around

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On 2/10/2019 at 5:07 PM, capecod said:

Ive seen this kid fish in person down at the canal, he has no freaking clue what he’s doing. 

EASY,... maybe you can suggest to him, the right and wrong way, sometimes we all need , to lend a helping hand, we are all fishermen, and i don't care what any one says, we , at one time or another, were all googans,we all ..were beginners...

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2 hours ago, BrianBM said:

Bazck when Ditch Jigger was here, he recommended Cortland Master Braid as the toughest superline he could find.  

Tried it, was great for about a month. Then it wore out and started breaking with barely any pressure. 

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Now that I think of it, maybe try Berkeley original fire line 25 or 30# test. It’s much stronger than the test rating would suggest and is probably way more abrasion resistant than any equivalent diameter braid.

 

It’s basically made from tons of heat treated “mono-like” fibers/threads that get fused together. It has no stretch like braid but the material feels like it should be much more abrasion resistant. The 30# diameter is similar to 65-80# braid depending on the manufacturer so keep that in mind when it comes to your casting distance.

 

I only use it on my 706z which I don’t fish that often. I haven’t had a big fish get into the rocks yet so can’t say for sure.

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