Bobby bucktails

sealed reels

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1 hour ago, RedGreen said:

What are the things you want most in this reel you're searching for? Weight, size, capacity, etc those sorts of things

i fish a 9wt but wouldnt mind having a reel that could be transferred to a 10wt. i would have multiple spools for different lines. as far as capacity idk i would be fishing just about in every scenario except super deep water anything more than 20ft really

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Take a look at the L5W 8twelve then. Alternatively F3W 7ten could do it if you don’t need a strong drag and #10 lines will be your heaviest and you use gsp (thin) backing.

 

I’ve used my 8twelve at lightest for bonefishing with #8 lines. My friends have used the same reel up to big game stuff (BFT).

 

FYI - all L5W and H5D series reels have the exact same insides.

Edited by sms

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Danielsson for me as we don't get those other makes over here. One of main things I like about the Danielssons is the spool change - no internals are exposed. You could change spools under water. They also have a full cage and tight tolerances so sand in the rim is never a problem like others I have tried. The only weak spot, like most reels is a rubber o-ring seal behind the drag knob which can let moisture in if its forced, like I did once showering a reel down. But this was repaired FOC.

My main gripes are that I wish the handles were longer and the spools a bit narrower on the L5W. But this won't stop me from buying them as they are 1/3 of the cost of most premium reels. 

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I have both the L5W 8/12 and H5D 9/13.  Identical capacity despite the numbers.  I use the 8/12 on 9 wt and 9/13 on 10 wt rods, because of a small weight difference.  I prefer the 8/12 for its slightly simpler aesthetic.  

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4 hours ago, JRT said:

My main gripes are that I wish the handles were longer and the spools a bit narrower on the L5W. 

 

I think the L5W 8/12 has a good handle length and proportions (same as HD9/13), but I agree wholeheartedly on the smaller L5W models.  

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I often wonder exactly they mean by sealed, to me no reel will keep out the salt water that will eventually penetrate to ever piece of the reel including all the  drag components. If the reel will keep the sand and debris out that is all I ask. Beyond that I try to maintain my reels without boing Moore than a thorough washing and lubrication of the clutch bearing.

 

With regards to Lamson reels I have four and love them, I follow my maintenance as I said above. I have returned them to Lamson for service the turn around time is terrific and when  the reel is returned I have always received a hand written note on the invoice explains what was done. A nice personal touch.

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Going to offer a different direction. I had reels with extra spools, lots of them, over the years, and have totally gone away from them. I now just have a reel rigged for each type of fishing I may encounter on the day and here's why.

 

Heat of the battle -  When I am fishing and a different scenario comes up then I want to grab the other rod and get firing. I don't want to spend time re rigging. To me this is by far the biggest need for a ready to go rig.

 

Not heat of the battle change - If its not a need to make a quick change then you can use an Omni Spool quick changer almost as fast as switching reel spools maybe even faster since you don't have to re thread the line through the guides. And this is even cheaper than extra reel spools.

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6 hours ago, bonefishdick said:

I often wonder exactly they mean by sealed, to me no reel will keep out the salt water that will eventually penetrate to ever piece of the reel including all the  drag components. If the reel will keep the sand and debris out that is all I ask. Beyond that I try to maintain my reels without boing Moore than a thorough washing and lubrication of the clutch bearing.

 

With regards to Lamson reels I have four and love them, I follow my maintenance as I said above. I have returned them to Lamson for service the turn around time is terrific and when  the reel is returned I have always received a hand written note on the invoice explains what was done. A nice personal touch.

As a saltwater surf "spin" guy primarily I would consider a reel "sealed" when it can keep water out, and is impervious to sand and debris with a simple dunk in the salt, and can actually be reeled under water. There are three that I know of. Van Staal, Z-Bass and Penn Torque. One seems to perform better than the other two. What I would like to have on my fly rod is a reel that can take the same abuse sans the reeling underwater which many don't really do anyway. I want to hit the reel with a hose at the end of a session ( what I do with my Van Staal VS's without having to take the spool out of the cage. Too much to ask ? Maybe ? 

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On 1/8/2019 at 11:38 PM, RedGreen said:

GregPavlov that is very interesting. To be concise I am talking corrosion of internal parts, I noticed none on the exterior surfaces, even after basically scraping all the finish off of the bottom of the reel from banging it around on rocks and jetties. All my corrosion was on the anti reverse bearing and other crucial internal parts.

I meant all of the parts that can be seen (which really is very few) after taking off the spool and unscrewing the plastic top/bearing covering the anti-reverse bearing, etc.  I'll modify my post a bit:  I did buy one used Litespeed 4 that had what looked like corrosion on the anti reverse bearing which Lamson replaced for me and while I was at it, I took Lamson up on it's public offer to provide stainless anti-reverse bearing replacements for all of my Litespeeds.  It didn't charge anything for that and I believe that the offer still stands.  I think that what distinguishes the new ones is a red-maroon housing but I can't remember for sure: this was a while back.

 

Regardless, I am not denying that people have had problems like you describe. 

Edited by GregPavlov
clarification

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On 1/8/2019 at 11:01 PM, GregPavlov said:

 

 

I would do a Web search: periodically they come out with a new model which means the previous model is sold off for under $300 (for the largest, size 4).  I've bought several that way but much of what I have I bought used: there is no downside to doing so.

 

FYI, for anyone interested (since the op was looking for something under $300):

 

https://www.tridentflyfishing.com/lamson-litespeed-micra-5-fly-reel.html?utm_campaign=Litespeed Fly Reel - 1.15.19 (Kc3NiF)&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Master Segment&_ke=eyJrbF9lbWFpbCI6ICJncmVncEBmYXN0bWFpbC5mbSIsICJrbF9jb21wYW55X2lkIjogIkpBNVhubSJ9

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21 mins ago, GregPavlov said:

I meant all of the parts that can be seen (which really is very few) after taking off the spool and unscrewing the plastic top/bearing covering the anti-reverse bearing, etc.  I'll modify my post a bit:  I did buy one used Litespeed 4 that had what looked like corrosion on the anti reverse bearing which Lamson replaced for me and while I was at it, I took Lamson up on it's public offer to provide stainless anti-reverse bearing replacements for all of my Litespeeds.  It didn't charge anything for that and I believe that the offer still stands.  I think that what distinguishes the new ones is a red-maroon housing but I can't remember for sure: this was a while back.

 

Regardless, I am not denying that people have had problems like you describe. 

I did not know they offered replacement bearings with upgraded materials. That is wonderful, thank you for that nugget of info. I'll have to send my liquid in for service then. Now if only they did titanium anti reverse bearings. I would pay whatever the cost, as that would completely nullify the issues I've had with lamsons. 

 

Personally, when it comes to sealed reels, I see "sealed" the same as "waterproof", which to me just means resistant but not impervious. Personally I would favor a design which wouldn't care about ingress of water and sand, was easily flushed, and was made of materials which didn't corrode. Titanium being a key one, as well as aluminum which is more resistant that steel of most this. There are several nitrogen based stainless steel on the market now which are as close to rust proof as a steel can get. Expensive, but any sealing is simply redundant as those materials wouldn't corrode anyways, and the right mechanical design can take care of the issue of grit and sand ingress. 

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9 hours ago, RedGreen said:

I did not know they offered replacement bearings with upgraded materials. That is wonderful, thank you for that nugget of info. I'll have to send my liquid in for service then. Now if only they did titanium anti reverse bearings. I would pay whatever the cost, as that would completely nullify the issues I've had with lamsons. 

 

Good luck, I hope that they are still doing that!  (my guess is that they do)

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9 hours ago, RedGreen said:

I did not know they offered replacement bearings with upgraded materials. That is wonderful, thank you for that nugget of info. I'll have to send my liquid in for service then. Now if only they did titanium anti reverse bearings. I would pay whatever the cost, as that would completely nullify the issues I've had with lamsons. 

 

Personally, when it comes to sealed reels, I see "sealed" the same as "waterproof", which to me just means resistant but not impervious. Personally I would favor a design which wouldn't care about ingress of water and sand, was easily flushed, and was made of materials which didn't corrode. Titanium being a key one, as well as aluminum which is more resistant that steel of most this. There are several nitrogen based stainless steel on the market now which are as close to rust proof as a steel can get. Expensive, but any sealing is simply redundant as those materials wouldn't corrode anyways, and the right mechanical design can take care of the issue of grit and sand ingress. 

Hey Chris,

 

It would be nice if those one-way bearings had the properties of titanium as titanium alloys have some very useful properties, including a high strength-to-weight ratio and excellent corrosion resistance, but exhibit very poor tribological characteristics.  (ie:  Tribology is the science and engineering of interacting surfaces in relative motion. It includes the study and application of the principles of friction, lubrication and wear. )   You probably won't get more than a Rc36 with titanium so it's relatively soft.   The other thing with titanium is that it doesn't dissipate heat very well.   Great for some things but lousy for others.

 

HT

 

 

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16 mins ago, HillTop said:

Hey Chris,

 

It would be nice if those one-way bearings had the properties of titanium as titanium alloys have some very useful properties, including a high strength-to-weight ratio and excellent corrosion resistance, but exhibit very poor tribological characteristics.  (ie:  Tribology is the science and engineering of interacting surfaces in relative motion. It includes the study and application of the principles of friction, lubrication and wear. )   You probably won't get more than a Rc36 with titanium so it's relatively soft.   The other thing with titanium is that it doesn't dissipate heat very well.   Great for some things but lousy for others.

 

HT

 

 

Right you are HT but there are a few alloys which are heat treatable (primarily beta alloys) though they don't come anywhere near maximum steel hardness which is around RC67, the most you could probably hope for is RC50 or so. 

 

I hadn't thought about how the metal would interact with other parts as far as surface properties go which was dumb as titanium tends to stick to metals that are fit tightly. In the knives I make which have a sprung leaf lock (linerlock) that jams against the heel of the blade to keep it from closing, titanium tends to bind and stick against the steel surface and gall and wear against the harder and more wear resistant metal. Steel leafs don't do this at all, no sticking to worry about, and far less wear. Titanium tends to wear out when in this application, but torching it and letting it air cool helps mend this flaw immensely. Many of the locks I've set with this process have never worn out or even shown signs of significant wear after many years. Even on non-beta alloys (I use 6al4v, an alpha- beta) the effect is huge and helps tremendously. The hardness still doesn't approach that of steel but it is increased and the wear resistance as well increases. 

 

A nitrogen steel like Zapp's Z-finit would be a better choice overall though as it works like you would expect a steel to work and achieves high hardness (high fifties to low sixties RC). It is also nearly corrosion proof as the nitrogen in the chemical makeup replaces carbon almost completely and provides massive corrosion resistance surpassing 304 and other very low carbon stainless steels noted for their corrosion resistance. H-1 is another one which has been used in knives specifically designed for use around corrosive environments. Of course it is more dense than titanium but the anti reverse bearing really isn't a component that should be designed around a weight limitation. 

 

Sorry for derailing the thread OP, I will stop. Have you decided on a reel for yourself?

Edited by RedGreen

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Posted (edited) · Report post

On 1/9/2019 at 2:33 PM, sms said:

Take a look at the L5W 8twelve then. Alternatively F3W 7ten could do it if you don’t need a strong drag and #10 lines will be your heaviest and you use gsp (thin) backing.

 

I’ve used my 8twelve at lightest for bonefishing with #8 lines. My friends have used the same reel up to big game stuff (BFT).

 

FYI - all L5W and H5D series reels have the exact same insides.

I sold all on my original Evotech LW Danielsson reels and replaced them with H5D series reels. They add a washer or spacer to the certain models to get different levels of drag.  these are level 5, the 4seven is level 2.

20190114_212618.jpg

Edited by ferret

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