Sudsy

Tricks and tweaks

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If using tube and worm you can apply the Smelly jelly to a felt strip  or piece of cloth and stick it up inside the tube .  

It lasts longer . 

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When airing up at the pump, count one thousand one...as you fill and figure out how many seconds it takes to get from 15# to 32# or whatever you do.

 

Once you know you can get darn close time after time. Works for me.

 

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If you need to get to a pesky wind knot and you're at a location that doesn't let you walk your line out you can always use your cooler or anything like that such as a milk carton crate to take off the line and still not have it tangled up

Edited by Captain Ahab

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On 1/6/2019 at 1:07 PM, BillZ said:

Here's one;

 

I've done the Montauk weekend trips for years, sleeping in the day .... fishing at night, etc....

My last truck was an 06 explorer.
One thing that was always nice was to have total darkness & privacy in the truck when sleeping or anytime for that matter, especially in the lower lot.....

I installed sticky back Velcro tabs at the window frames, put the matching Tab on a fabricated curtain cut to size for each of the back windows made from thick black contractors bags.

Easy on easy off .....

Along with an adjustable shower rod & curtain between the cockpit & the back seat you have total darkness and complete privacy.

 

@ Bill Z.... Car camper here as well.  

 

Old Xterra...used long hat pins to tack curtains right into felt roof.  

 

Evolved to a metal cable I strung curtains my girlfriend made all around.

___________________________________________________________________________

 

BUT... then I saw this....  Cheapest, easiest, best car camping curtain solution I'm aware of....   Reflectix...$15 bucks @ Home Depot.

 

Advantages:

  • Cut to fit each window perfectly.  No gaps.
  • Complete block of peeping eyes and/or sunlight/streetlights
  • No overhanging curtain taking up space, getting tugged down, etc.
  • Added insulation value for cold nights.
  • Cheap.  Can't break it.  Doesn't get wet or dirty like curtains.

 

If you Google, you'll see some people talking about tape or something to hold it up.  Not needed.  Cut each piece just slightly larger  (1/4" inch maybe) than the window and the Reflectix scrunches/wedges in and holds itself in place.

 

Tip...Use a Sharpee to label each piece so you know which window it is.  D1, D2, D3, P1, P2...P3....B, F, etc.  (Driver side window #1, #2... Passenger side window 1, 2, 3... Back Window, Front Window....)  Then draw an arrow facing forward, and an arrow facing up on each piece.  Roll them all up together and put a bungee cord around it.  

 

I can come in from fishing cold, wet, in the dark...and with the pieces labeled I can have it up in a couple of minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Screen Shot 2019-01-14 at 3.00.26 PM.png

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5 hours ago, R.R. Bridge Fisher said:

So, 

Any tricks to knowing how much line is removed from a reel for replacement? Do those cheap line counters work? 

Cheap line counter doesn't work well with high tension spool and slipping can occur with braid. Are you using the exact same line as replacement? It has to be exact or you'll end up with a different line level or worst, with more line left over than you wanted. The only sure way to fill the spool 100% is the old fashion way with a couple of spare reel. Dump, fill, add backing then flip.

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Just now, hobobob said:

Cheap line counter doesn't work well with high tension spool and slipping can occur with braid. Are you using the exact same line as replacement? It has to be exact or you'll end up with a different line level or worst, with more line left over than you wanted. The only sure way to fill the spool 100% is the old fashion way with a couple of spare reel. Dump, fill, add backing then flip.

Yes I've done that small plastic wire spools on a threaded rod with nuts and washers on a cordless drill.

I was looking to remove a bunch of line and know what to add back on.

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Saw this one in a 2012 post by Dennis in the thread on US Made VS's currently bumped.  

 

I write weights on my stuff with Sharpees.  

 

Noted DZ's method... Notching/melting some marks in a SS Needle so he can know the load/weight in the dark with no need to turn on a light.  Slick.

 

 

 

 

Screen Shot 2019-01-15 at 12.32.07 PM.png

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On 1/4/2019 at 8:59 PM, charles s said:

Ok so this one is done with a micron loop on the head hook ... once I tie it up I zap a gap the sluggo head to the micron tied on the head hook and it’s solid 

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Through wire the sluggo using dacron. Nice!

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I saw someone use a spinnerbait box to store bucktails. I tried it but the slit was not deep enough to hang the hook on without the hair getting mashed down. I used a soldering iron to lengthen the cut for the hooks and it works perfectly. A few holes in the bottom make washing down the bucktails easy. 

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12 hours ago, drumfish213 said:

I saw someone use a spinnerbait box to store bucktails. I tried it but the slit was not deep enough to hang the hook on without the hair getting mashed down. I used a soldering iron to lengthen the cut for the hooks and it works perfectly. A few holes in the bottom make washing down the bucktails easy. 

Picture please? Thanks!

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Spinning reel with a broke bail spring...just remove the screw on the rotor holding the spring in place, take a small plastic washer place over the spring and tighten screw back down and you can open the bail/close the bail with off hand. Also, can remove the spring if you like...place piece of rubber tubing into slot where spring fits...tighten down works just like the spring if worked by hand opening and closing. If the newer reels of today with the spring system where you can snap closed or manually close with hand, this will work also just cannot snap close by turning the rotor, have to manually close which is way suppose to be done. I grease the washer or rubber tube and tighten just enough to make it close with little effort. Have a new "spring" that will last forever, never break. This works reel well with the older spinners...can eliminate that annoying snap closing the bail. If using rubber tubing, just have to experiment with getting right height and I like to use something with some thickness, not too soft rubber.

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On 1/20/2019 at 8:20 AM, Buckscorider said:

Picture please? Thanks!

Not the best pictures but you should get the idea. That is a 2oz spro for reference. Ideally the cut would be a bit lower so all of the hair would be below the lid.

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B9DB32EB-FC3C-45A8-A340-3CC27ED6B0E1.jpeg

Edited by drumfish213
added details

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This is a great box for the car. Fits in the back of my Xterra perfectly, holds a ton of plano boxes, extra shelf is great for pliers, scissors, etc. Rolls so when I need to take it out of the car it is easy. There is a spot to add a lock.  Handle slides in and out.

Husky 35 in. Mobile Job Tool Box

Edited by drumfish213
added picture

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Jack Crevalles are like bluefish, they like baits moving fast, the faster the better. While lure color does not seem to matter much, profile and length does. Not much of a problem when mullet are the prey as any 2-3oz topwater will work. Gets more complicated when they are chasing ballyhoo off the beach and in the Inlet like the past week or two. 

 

I love GT Ice Cream plugs for JCs but theIr profile in the 1.75oz version is a bit short so I modify their hook by adding a teaser. I can’t make it work with the factory cord so I use a doubled length of 150# braid snelled on the hook and locked in with alternating & opposing hitches and fused ends. 

 

That works as long as we don’t have blues around. 

 

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Edited by tomkaz

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