anystripe

Car topping Hobie Outback

84 posts in this topic

6 hours ago, buddha162 said:

 

That's what I did today for the maiden voyage, I got it locked in upside down to slide the kayak to the ground from the side rail, but the piece was moving as if it might slip forward...I think I'll use the rubber mat from now on. 

 

 

Are you using it like this in the pic I attached? Even if you do it upside down the openings have to be facing outward. I had it slide, but if you keep the pressure on it, you don't have to worry.

loader.JPG

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Posted (edited) · Report post

On 6/24/2020 at 8:06 AM, gonfishin said:

I have Subaru Outback with slightly angled rear window. I use a roller loader on the back window, with a Yakima Hulley roller and saddle combination on the roof. The Outback slides up easily onto the roof once the nose of the kayak is placed on the roller loader. Roller loader picture is attached.

Hulley Roller.png

I too have a Subaru Outback ... I load my Compass Hull down (bottom on the factory rack). I just raise the tail (rudder 1st) up on the rack with the boat perpendicular to the car ... using the indentation in the rack to hold it from sliding. Just push it up and then swing it 90 degrees. HOWEVER, your method is intriguing ... what did it cost?

Edited by jeffreyrichard

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8 hours ago, Hokepokey said:

I don't ever use bow/stern lines. I've done at least 8k miles with my revo cartopped this way, never had an issue. 

You are pushing your luck IMO. The bow/stern lines are not only a safety valve if the top rack connections fails, it will also take some load off the rack so it doesn't rip off your roof as easily. At it minimum these tie downs help protect the rest of us you share the road with.

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For the Outback i always use a stern line ...along with the traditional yakima straps  . I've traveled  150 miles on the highway with this set up for many years with out any issues.  Remember to put a twist in the straps to avoid the  howling road wind noise.

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12 hours ago, jeffreyrichard said:

You are pushing your luck IMO. The bow/stern lines are not only a safety valve if the top rack connections fails, it will also take some load off the rack so it doesn't rip off your roof as easily. At it minimum these tie downs help protect the rest of us you share the road with.

Agreed ... paying insurance premiums is a bitch ... until you need to claim

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On 6/30/2020 at 10:57 AM, gonfishin said:

Remember to put a twist in the straps to avoid the  howling road wind noise.

Explain please ... I always thought it was a FLAT strap ... then again I still get wind noise

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The straps are flat. Putting a twist in them can reduce wind noise. The wind pass's under the strap and makes  noise on the highway. If you put a twist in the strap it can eliminate the noise. This is especially

true on a flat bottom like an SUP or  surf board.  The twist is not necessary on all kayaks it depends on the hull design. 

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6 hours ago, dbjpb said:

The straps are flat. Putting a twist in them can reduce wind noise. The wind pass's under the strap and makes  noise on the highway. If you put a twist in the strap it can eliminate the noise. This is especially

true on a flat bottom like an SUP or  surf board.  The twist is not necessary on all kayaks it depends on the hull design. 

I put my kayaks hull down on the rach ... do I add the twist on the strap going down the side or on the top of the kayak? How many twists and to which straps (cosidering that there are two for each strap)?

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Honestly I don’t normally get wind noise with my kayak straps. On my kayak.! When I use the straps for the sup  it is more common. Normally a few twists located  where the strap touches the  kayak or  sup will work. I never use ratchet straps. Too easy to damage your hull with them.

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