GBS

What is your holy grail fly reel?

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Nothing crazy, and I already have it.  My Hardy-made Orvis CFO III that I bought new in 1972, it's called the "upside down CFO" because the graphics on it are upside down when it's mounted on the rod, kind of a collectors item now but mine is in well used condition after fishing it for the last 45 years and still works like new, just a little jewel.  Only the "III" model is that way, and the story is the Orvis marketing guys wanted it to look that way so it looked good in their catalog, so not many were made.

Orvis CFO.jpg

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Holy Grail fly reel: 

- The toughness and waterproof drag of a Mako

- The dimensions and capacity of a Nautilus CCFx2

- The weight and spool change of a Danielsson L5W 

- The sound and gorilla handle of an original Tibor

 

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On ‎1‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 7:43 AM, bonefishdick said:

I never aspired to own a classic top of the line fly reel, for me my holy grail was to buy a reel that I knew would last and never have to be upgraded

That says it all in a nutshell.

 

Today's reel cost are way out of line, but I am calculating in old time dollars.

 

A fly reel is a tool to spool line with a drag system of sorts. It seems that many post of older reels that still function today quite well after many years of service.

My "grail" reels are used, but it pains me when a new micro scratch happens.

An excuse that I use to explain to myself is that the scratch adds character and a memory to the reel.

 

Regards,

 

FT

 

 

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5 hours ago, Bonefish79 said:

it's called the "upside down CFO" because the graphics on it are upside

You are correct, and these around five years ago brought excessive prices on the used market, sometimes two to three hundred dollars more than they were really worth.

 

Great reels are the ones made by Hardy Brothers of the UK with the rivets on the back plate that are click and pawl drag .

 

Nice looking reels that you have.

 

Regards,

FT

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33 mins ago, Fishin Technician said:

My "grail" reels are used, but it pains me when a new micro scratch happens.

An excuse that I use to explain to myself is that the scratch adds character and a memory to the reel.

That's one of the reasons I love the Mako reels (and their little brothers, the Solitude reels): The Type III anodising resists scratching like no other coating possibly can. It is literally a corundum coating (i.e. the same mineral as sapphire and ruby).

 

Oh, and I don't think it's even possible to "upgrade" a Mako, but maybe I'm biased ... ;) 

 

Cheers,

Graeme

 

 

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The best reel finish that I have ever experienced is on this Charleton made Scientific Anglers  System 3 fly reel from the early nineties. Much better than my Tibor Pate reels.

 

FT

100_2263[1].JPG

100_2264[1].JPG

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On 1/7/2019 at 8:43 PM, JRT said:

Holy Grail fly reel: 

- The toughness and waterproof drag of a Mako

- The dimensions and capacity of a Nautilus CCFx2

- The weight and spool change of a Danielsson L5W 

- The sound and gorilla handle of an original Tibor

 

Combining the first and third one is not possible. Mako's hub weighs too much. The same function could be made lighter (and have even a lot more drag if so wished).

But basically I agree, my wish list:

 - drag adjustment of Mako

 - drag wear compensation of Mako

 - drag max 30lb

 - drag range setting of Danielsson (I mean the one where the drag knob adjustability, not internal).

 - sealing performance of Mako

 - spool change mechanism of Mako

 - dimensions and weight of CCF-X2 (pretty much the same as Danielsson when comparing apples to apples)

 - fairly loud metallic clicker sound when line is pulled out

 - just a fine ticking sound when line is reeled in

 - handle that can be changed so I could have the handle I want made for it

 

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On 1/7/2019 at 6:42 PM, Hirdy said:

That's one of the reasons I love the Mako reels (and their little brothers, the Solitude reels): The Type III anodising resists scratching like no other coating possibly can. It is literally a corundum coating (i.e. the same mineral as sapphire and ruby).

 

Oh, and I don't think it's even possible to "upgrade" a Mako, but maybe I'm biased ... ;) 

 

Cheers,

Graeme

 

 

Thanks for mentioning the Solitude reels--I took a look and they seem great, and the price is not crazy. Very cool for type III anodizing.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

37 mins ago, GBS said:

Thanks for mentioning the Solitude reels--I took a look and they seem great, and the price is not crazy. Very cool for type III anodizing.

It has been reported (I don't know how truthfully) that Edco do the machining for the Mako reel company and that there was some consultation between Jack Charlton and Edco on drag design philosophies. The factories are only about 5 miles apart. Certainly, the reel feet and finish (anodising) on the Mako 9550 and the SR5/SR4 reels are exactly alike. I think I could swap out the reel foot from the Mako with the SR5 and be hard pressed to pick any difference.

 

For me, the build quality on Solitudes is every bit as good as the Mako. There is definitely higher technology in the Mako reels, but the Solitudes are built for lighter fishing and don't need that sort of tech. The Solitudes are the trout-weight versions of Mako reels that a lot of people want, but that's probably the best kept secret in US reel manufacturing. Fine by me (an Aussie) because I have some wonderful reels at a bargain price point. Nearly all of my fishing is inshore saltwater fishing for small to moderate size fish, and the Type III anodising on these small reels is almost unique, giving me the best possible protection against corrosion. (I own one of each size Solitude reel with Type III anodising plus 2 of the SR3 reels with gold anodising.)

 

I just "need" a couple of Mako 9500s to round out the tool kit. ;)

 

Cheers,

Graeme

Edited by Hirdy

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After a lot of testing, thinking and fishing, I think the ultimate fly reel for me would be the Nautilus CCFx2 with a 1 to 2 turn drag setting. Apart from its horrible drag setting (just my personal opinion) the reel is perfect.

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