The Riddler

Old Town Top Water 106 PDL Review

177 posts in this topic

Power coat got salt water underneath.  I don’t know if it found it’s way from where the coat terminated or it was from salt water sitting on where the hose couldn’t reach. Either way since you said you performed a wash down you have done your job.  I would seek out a warranty claim on this because it’s all down hill from here.  The power coat will continue to come off and the corrosion will makes its way to the seal.  That’s my thoughts..Old Town is very reasonable.  They will want to see that photo in an email and see where it goes from there if you wish to pursue.  You can let us know what happens and what cost , if any, falls onto you.

 

 

684AB100-A4B8-4AE1-B16B-C4C1FBC98A93.jpeg

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1 min ago, BillZ said:

Roger that ..... all that corrosion is indicative of raw aluminum. 

 

I'm sure sometime down the line they'll make a PDL drive that can withstand saltwater. Until then, I'll just have to continue to spray the piss out of it with Corrosion X or another brand.

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1 min ago, The Riddler said:

Power coat got salt water underneath.  I don’t know if it found it’s way from where the coat terminated or it was from salt water sitting on where the hose couldn’t reach. Either way since you said you performed a wash down you have done your job.  I would seek out a warranty claim on this because it’s all down hill from here.  The power coat will continue to come off and the corrosion will makes its way to the seal.  That’s my thoughts..Old Town is very reasonable.  They will want to see that photo in an email and see where it goes from there if you wish to pursue.  You can let us know what happens and what cost , if any, falls onto you.

 

 

684AB100-A4B8-4AE1-B16B-C4C1FBC98A93.jpeg

I sent them an email yesterday after I saw the damage. Probably will get a response back Tomorrow or Tuesday. I've only had the kayak for year and a half. This shouldn't be occurring so soon, if at all honestly. 

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Good point about the environment getting under there and spreading...

 

There's a whole material  preparation procedure that is imperative 

 

 You have to remove the 1st oxidation layer of aluminum before you even start,  it etches the surface providing a nice surface for the paint to bond to.....it's all done with chemicals.

 

Skip that or don't do it properly & you get a drive that has its paint bubble off. :laugh:

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Some things I am reading up on:

 

 

Corrosionpedia explains Undercut

Undercut corrosion or undercutting corrosion is often due to a coating failure or an inadequate application of metal coating materials such as paint, primer, or adhesive on the metal surface. Moisture and oxygen enter the coating and react with the scale, causing it to lose adhesion and thus corrosion progressively forms beneath the coating. The use of coatings over a very smooth, dense surface where adhesion is critical also creates a situation inviting this type of failure.

Undercutting is the result of poor adhesion due to:

  • Improper surface preparation.
  • A smooth surface (no surface profile).
  • Coating incompatibility with the substrate surface.

Most undercutting failures can be substantially eliminated by proper surface preparation prior to coating and by using a coating material with strong adhesion characteristics through the use of an inhibitor primer on the substrate prior to applications of top coat.

One of the favorite methods to prevent undercutting on steel surfaces is to apply an inorganic zinc coating as a permanent primer before the organic coating is applied. The inorganic binder chemically reacts with the steel, providing very tight adhesion and preventing the undercutting, which is characteristic of most organic paints or coatings. This coating system has been successful on hundreds of millions of square feet of surface exposed to extreme marine or industrial conditions.

The coating should be applied on a surface that has been cleaned abrasively or cleaned by water jet blasting. A zinc-rich primer reduces undercutting.

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This is a 40 pound thrust Minkota it's about 4, maybe 5 years old.

 

 You can see areas where the paint is coming off, it's scuffed but it's not spreading.

 

 The scuffed  areas are from sand getting in between the prop and the housing and just rubbing the paint off.

 

 Even with that exposed material, the paint is not bubbling off and there is no corrosion undercutting.

 

20190203_134753.jpg.9a3b51c17dc8e9cd4b4b691c147fefac.jpg

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That's the way Let's bass drive should look like. Since Johnson Outdoors owns Minn Kota, Ocean Kayak, Old Town, Humminbird, we have to assume this is a PDL drive defect. We hope.

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1 hour ago, The Riddler said:

That's the way Let's bass drive should look like. Since Johnson Outdoors owns Minn Kota, Ocean Kayak, Old Town, Humminbird, we have to assume this is a PDL drive defect. We hope.

That would be my thought, I feel like if that bad of corrosion was even somewhat common this wouldn't be the first time hearing of it

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Spoke with someone from Old Town. They're reviewing the claim and will let me know if  they will warranty my PDL drive. The guy stated that the shear pins are stainless and doesn't know why it rusted. He did assure me they'd send more shear pins. Waiting on a final verdict. 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

8 hours ago, Letdatbassknock said:

Spoke with someone from Old Town. They're reviewing the claim and will let me know if  they will warranty my PDL drive. The guy stated that the shear pins are stainless and doesn't know why it rusted. He did assure me they'd send more shear pins. Waiting on a final verdict. 

Here is another PDL owner with a rusted shear pin. Feel free to pass it to JO ppl since they "dont know why it rusted"

 

youTube linky

 

p.s. I better check mine too. I covered the pin, exposed part of prop shaft and the nut with grease and undercoat spray last year; will see how it held up.

Edited by oceanAddict

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25 mins ago, oceanAddict said:

Here is another PDL owner with a rusted shear pin. Feel free to pass it to JO ppl since they "dont know why it rusted"

 

youTube linky

 

p.s. I better check mine too. I covered the pin, exposed part of prop shaft and the nut with grease and undercoat spray last year; will see how it held up.

Thank you for the link. Let me know how your drive held up. If it's not showing any signs of corrosion to the housing or pin, I'll be sure to apply the same tactics to the drive I have now or the new one if they replace it.

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Shear pin has to be marine grade steel. When you have dissimilar metals corrosion will happen.  Salt water makes it worse. To put in the same pin from OT with grease or oil is just asking for trouble again. Who cares if an all stainless pin it doesn't have the rated break on it if you hit something submerged. I'd rather deal with no corrosion and a broken prop than have corrosion. I don't plan on using the Top Water in the salt but will make my own improvements and post it here. I am sure fresh water will also corrode it will just take longer.

 

The corrosion on the housing? There will be no fix for that. All you one can do is  slow down the inevitable with fresh water and sprays. Having salt water crystal settle on the housing will wreak fast havoc.

 

 

 

 

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