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Drywall anchors - Is shear capacity additive?

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flyangler

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Mr Kaz is gonna be cut off for at least two weeks.....

 

 

 

You should start a thread, things you do that piss off the wife!

how lucky am i

to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard


Shooting a coon in a 60ft tree out of a boat in the dark holding a flashlight can be tricky. ..
 

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Mr Kazz, the top bracket pulled out of the wall due to rotation forces the brackets applies. You don’t want to use this type of bracket. You want to use some type of hanger/bracket on each side wall, then you’ll get the full shear strength of the anchor fasteners. 

 

You can can also use 1 1/4” gas pipe if wood will warp due to its length and weight of the stuff you’re hanging on it. Use galvanized pipe if you don’t want to clean and paint black pipe.

America, the country so great that even its haters refuse to leave. 

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1 hour ago, Wayne Tj said:

Mr Kazz, the top bracket pulled out of the wall due to rotation forces the brackets applies. You don’t want to use this type of bracket. You want to use some type of hanger/bracket on each side wall, then you’ll get the full shear strength of the anchor fasteners. 

 

You can can also use 1 1/4” gas pipe if wood will warp due to its length and weight of the stuff you’re hanging on it. Use galvanized pipe if you don’t want to clean and paint black pipe.

Told him to go into sidewalls when he originally posted. Sheetrock has no pullout strength no matter what anchor you use.

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36 mins ago, ted527 said:

Told him to go into sidewalls when he originally posted. Sheetrock has no pullout strength no matter what anchor you use.

Me to, even posted a picture....

how lucky am i

to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard


Shooting a coon in a 60ft tree out of a boat in the dark holding a flashlight can be tricky. ..
 

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48 mins ago, ted527 said:

Told him to go into sidewalls when he originally posted. Sheetrock has no pullout strength no matter what anchor you use.

 

11 mins ago, redfishkiller said:

Me to, even posted a picture....

Yes you did. 

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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2 hours ago, Wayne Tj said:

Mr Kazz, the top bracket pulled out of the wall due to rotation forces the brackets applies. You don’t want to use this type of bracket. You want to use some type of hanger/bracket on each side wall, then you’ll get the full shear strength of the anchor fasteners. 

 

You can can also use 1 1/4” gas pipe if wood will warp due to its length and weight of the stuff you’re hanging on it. Use galvanized pipe if you don’t want to clean and paint black pipe.

This is the concept I will use in the laundry room in a few weeks. 

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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Ok, so I went ahead with what I said without waiting for comments. This is what I have which is each 1”x12” on wall with two white Tapcons into block on left and two spread wing anchors at center and right.

 

Also, the right bracket is fastened with two more wing anchors into the drywall as well as a lag into the board. The left side bracket has the same lag as well as two Tapcons into the block. 

 

So using these triangle angle brackets again, even though heavier gauge, leaves me exposed to same rotational vector away from the wall. My assumption has been that the board being fastened into block with four Tapcons should provide enough bite across the pine board to mitigate the rotational vector. 

 

Is this enough? 

 

At at this point I could run a 1”x4” from floor to ceiling and have the metal rods set into holes drilled into the 1x4”. 

 

Thoughts? Aside from more deserved abuse and a few more interactions of “I told you so” (which you did). 

 

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“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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10 mins ago, redfishkiller said:

A 1x 4 from the floor to the ceiling would be an excellent idea,

 

Oh yeah, I told you so...

Thanks. 

 

I would like to point out that I was man enough to come back here and show you how I failed miserably. Not everyone would be so candid. 

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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12 mins ago, mitchell master said:

I have used theee before in other homes.

 

Would this provide enough vertical weight support if I used a spread wing anchor to attach? Much neater than another common board. 

 

usf-83351-sn-main.jpg

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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13 mins ago, tomkaz said:

I would like to point out that I was man enough to come back here and show you how I failed miserably. Not everyone would be so candid. 

 

Pretty much the only reason I been paying attention to the story :).  Anyway,

 

Back in 09 things were tough for a contractor.  Took what we could and in one case got a good chuckle.  Homeowner (wife was leading the charge on this kitchen) hired the install off Craigslist to save a buck.  Apparently she grew uneasy when her new kitchen cabinets started to "lean" from right to left.  The "foreman" (read monkey) told her the ceiling is way out of level so we're splitting the difference..."I'll explain it tomorrow".

 

They never came back (got her for a deposit but thankfully no added money).  Don't know where we were at on the bid list but thankfully she called and a couple days later I was on site.  I guess the only thing I can say positive is the husband was smart enough to block the uppers in place with boards off the plywood counter.

 

Short list...  They screwed the face frames together with 2" drywall screws...no predrilling.  Every, single, one was snapped with no head to back them out.  Btw, face frames are 1-1/2" wide so no bite (thank goodness).  Best part...?  Same drywall screws mounting the units to the wall.  Why's that important...cause the home had metal studs for interior nonbearing so guess what those screws did?  Nothing.

 

Kaz...point being I give props that you made the attempt to do it right.  The neighborhood is littered with folks that don't give a **** and never will  :howdy:

The wheels on my reels go round and round...round and round...round and round...

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