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Drywall anchors - Is shear capacity additive?

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flyangler

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37 mins ago, patchyfog said:

I thought you were once an engineer?

I was numb nuts, that’s why am worried about this.I was numb nuts, that’s why am worried about this.

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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So you aren’t actually looking at shearing capacity.   It’s important to make clean holes, no tear out in paper, no separation of core  etc. 

"I have ... put a lump of ice into an equal quantity of water ...  if a little sea salt be added to the water we shall produce a fluid sensibly colder than the ice was in the beginning, which has appeared a curious and puzzling thing to those unacquainted with the general fact."- Joseph Black

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15 mins ago, tomkaz said:

Gonna use these rather than classic wing types. 

 

 

I've used 100's of Togglers. I've always figured their rating was 50% "additive" if the anchors were in different stud bays. The idea that when 2 anchors are used, both share the load equally is not often true in actual practice.

 

My $0.02

"I came into this world naked, screaming at the top of my lungs, and covered in someone else's blood. I got no problem leaving it that way."
Who can hope to be safe? Who sufficiently cautious? Guard himself as he may, every moment's an ambush. Horace

 

 

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33 mins ago, seadogface said:

You could use wood to span multiple studs ...

 I considered that but I’m being lazy. Rather, I run into the same problem with a 1x10” backing board. I would still need toggles because I can’t trust drywall screws alone. 

 

 The issue is that the electric wire runs go up the centers of the aluminum studs. It’s the way they do things here and typically they zip tie the wires to the back end of the stud away from the drywall. Not a problem if using drywall screws but gets a little more complicated when drilling half inch holes for a toggle anchors. So I’m going to avoid the studs and go into the drywall between studs where I know there are no power runs. 

Edited by tomkaz

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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5 mins ago, gadwall8 said:

I've used 100's of Togglers. I've always figured their rating was 50% "additive" if the anchors were in different stud bays. The idea that when 2 anchors are used, both share the load equally is not often true in actual practice.

 

My $0.02

This. You wont be able to load all anchors equally.

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14 mins ago, JimW said:

So you aren’t actually looking at shearing capacity.   It’s important to make clean holes, no tear out in paper, no separation of core  etc. 

Truth. I run a 1/4” drill bit through the drywall slowly before running zipits in. The zip does drill when it goes in, but I feel predrilling is a better move. 

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9 mins ago, gadwall8 said:

I've used 100's of Togglers. I've always figured their rating was 50% "additive" if the anchors were in different stud bays. The idea that when 2 anchors are used, both share the load equally is not often true in actual practice.

 

My $0.02

Exactly. With a shelf bracket that has two anchor pints, one over the other, the top anchor bears much more of the load. 

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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23 mins ago, tomkaz said:

 Those are a no go for this application. It’s going to be a triangular shelf bracket that  has a hook for attaching a hanging bar underneath it. On that hanging bar is going my wife’s tablecloths which are a lot heavier than you would think. So the weight center of gravity across the bar is 10 inches off-the-wall and cantilevered. Thus,  one of those screw in anchors will be pulled right out. That is not a theory, that’s personal experience. 

 

 

Friggin engineers...change the rules to make their argument the "right way".  Now we don't really care so much about shear but rather tear out, yes?  Those metal variety are the bomb...they don't pull out (you're welcome to run with that one  :laugh: )

The wheels on my reels go round and round...round and round...round and round...

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54 mins ago, mako20ft said:

 

Friggin engineers...change the rules to make their argument the "right way".  Now we don't really care so much about shear but rather tear out, yes?  Those metal variety are the bomb...they don't pull out (you're welcome to run with that one  :laugh: )

Seriously, if I was talking about shear and toggles, why would I be interested in screw-in anchors. I’m not faulting you for recommending those but calling me a friggin engineer and suggesting I’m changing the fact pattern after word is not exactly fair.

Edited by tomkaz

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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1 hour ago, MitchellNJ said:

You can always tear the wall out, install additional studs, drywall, paint and then hang the thing on the studs.

This is for a bedroom closet to hang heavy table cloths, that would be overkill. That said, I did exactly that to hang the 260 pound glass barn sliding door in our kitchen. That was quite the project

Edited by tomkaz

“No nation in history has survived once its borders were destroyed, once its citizenship was rendered no different from mere residence, and once its neighbors with impunity undermined its sovereignty.”

- Victor Davis Hanson 

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