gellfex

Repair or replace?

45 posts in this topic

5 hours ago, gellfex said:

Okay, you've hooked me! I maintain 13 apartments including my own, what appliances are dependable? If any. I've found the cheap Frigidaire ranges to be bulletproof, and the simple Whirlpool top load washers and dryers to be relatively dependable, and at least easy to fix.

I wish I could recommend something. We used to say whirpool but as of late, they are crashing hard. The only thing I tell people now is stay away from LG and Samsung. Whatever you buy, keep it simple! If you're buying a ref, stay far away from any French door with an icemaker in the fresh food compartment. That's all brands. 

 

If I we're buying a washer, I'd buy a cheap whirlpool. If I were buying a ref, I'd buy a very specific Maytag/Whirlpool/Amanda model. I wouldn't buy a dishwasher right now. Ranges, take your pick. All the same. Buy the CHEAPEST microwave you possibly can. Throw it away when it breaks. 

 

I can tell you for sure, if things don't change drastically, my job will go the way of the TV/VCR repairman in the next 15 years. Thankfully, this business and my dad taught me a little bit of everything. 

 

Speedqueen was making a solid washer for a while but we knew it wasn't sustainable. They were both going to meet new energy regulations coming down the line. The good thing about speedqueen is that they still offer a great warranty but their units are not cheap. 

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Posted (edited)

Wow, that's an ugly assessment. For tenant washers, I do buy cheap used whirlpools and ,pitch them if I can't repair them myself, and get another for $50.  Because my stairs are so narrow, I've been buying GE fridges because they're a couple inches shallower with the doors off. Some Lowe's clowns laid waste to a stairwell moving a Whirlpool to the 4th fl. I don't know why anyone would spend over $200 on an OTR MW, but they do. I can get them sometimes as low as $160. Sadly, they're all weak MW and crappy vent hoods. When I built my own kitchen I put in a 600cfm Vent-a-Hood and made a shelf for a $100 powerful MW.  Like I said my Frigidaire ranges have been trouble free, but a brand new Whirlpool this year needed 2 warranty calls to fix the burner igniters. 

 

I hope my own GE range isn't circling the drain. I've changed out the oven igniter but it still lights badly and can't hold temp properly. I bet the control board on that slide-in is like $500. Tomorrow I pull the igniter and check the amperage and ohms to see if they've changed from when I installed it.

 

Oh yeah, 10 years on and my LG stacking laundry is fine, knock on wood. I learned my lesson with Sansung. I also had one of those Frigidaire front loaders where the shaft seals went and water destroyed the bearings & spider casting. That was fun. I can't believe they didn't face a class action for that.

Edited by gellfex

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1 hour ago, gellfex said:

Wow, that's an ugly assessment. For tenant washers, I do buy cheap used whirlpools and ,pitch them if I can't repair them myself, and get another for $50.  Because my stairs are so narrow, I've been buying GE fridges because they're a couple inches shallower with the doors off. Some Lowe's clowns laid waste to a stairwell moving a Whirlpool to the 4th fl. I don't know why anyone would spend over $200 on an OTR MW, but they do. I can get them sometimes as low as $160. Sadly, they're all weak MW and crappy vent hoods. When I built my own kitchen I put in a 600cfm Vent-a-Hood and made a shelf for a $100 powerful MW.  Like I said my Frigidaire ranges have been trouble free, but a brand new Whirlpool this year needed 2 warranty calls to fix the burner igniters. 

 

I hope my own GE range isn't circling the drain. I've changed out the oven igniter but it still lights badly and can't hold temp properly. I bet the control board on that slide-in is like $500. Tomorrow I pull the igniter and check the amperage and ohms to see if they've changed from when I installed it.

 

Oh yeah, 10 years on and my LG stacking laundry is fine, knock on wood. I learned my lesson with Sansung. I also had one of those Frigidaire front loaders where the shaft seals went and water destroyed the bearings & spider casting. That was fun. I can't believe they didn't face a class action for that.

All your assessments are pretty spot on. I don't hate your LG washer. I hate everything else they make in appliances but not that one. The main reason to hate LG, even with that washer (which was well built IMO), is getting parts. LG and Samsung are both very difficult to get parts for. Most often, what comes is wrong. Not sure what the comminality is with those two but they are the only ones that have a consistent issue. Maybe because they're Korean? Who knows. 

 

The new LGs have the issue your old Frigidaire washer had. Law suits are pretty rare. These companies do everything in their power to cover stuff up, including keeping the information from their servicers and telling them to lie. Fortunately, I don't work for any of them anymore so I can say whatever I want. 

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Gell.. check repair clinic's web site for the part. If it is not much cheaper then get a new one.

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Im now in the same boat with my dishwasher a week after reading this thread.  My dishwasher (maytag) will not fill, i thought there was no power to the buttons then i looked in the manual and it had me press a specific button combo within 6 seconds and the the dishwasher cycles between wash and dry makes some noises fo 45 seconds then turns off.  Almost seems like it is on demo mode but i pressed the button combo to turn that off with no luck. Any advise where to begin? 

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Assuming there's a little computer in there like everything else, did you try flipping it's breaker and depowering it for a while?  Also check Repair Clinic site mentioned above, they have a fair bit of troubleshooting guides.

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Yea, I shut the breaker off for 15 mins and turned it back on. I've tried most of the tips from the repair clinic site except for checking the water intake and pump. It could be calcium buildup or debris so Ill try that then start shopping the scratch and dent at depot and lowes for a replacement

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Check the float switch and check your water supply. Make sure you're getting good water pressure to the valve on the machine. 

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The consolidation in the appliance industry means there's very little actual choice.  Under the covers, they're all heading from the same 5-6 factories in Korea, China and Mexico.

 

What's worse is there's no price point for 'decent'.  Used to be, you spent more money on something, you expected it to be of better quality.  Now, that has more to do with ancillary features you don't really need and brand names.  Under the covers, expensive and cheap appliances share core components, and they break at the same rate (often).

 

I had a Samsung dryer, 1 month out of warranty, die because of the stupidest design I've ever seen, a thermistor sitting on the dryer vent in a location where it was destined to gather lint.  The thermistor is used by the onboard computer to determine if the exhaust is too hot and poses a fire risk, and will shut the entire unit down if it reads wrong (either too hot or error).  Well, that $5 part (which in reality is much cheaper than that, but repackaged) gets some lint and fails after a little more than a year.  Taking the damn thing apart took me an hour, so a service person would easily have charged 2 hours including transport and more money for the part.  Not worth it to call someone, not worth it to throw it away - not worth it any way you slice it.  Cheap garbage, meant to fail quickly - practically consumable, the inkjet printer model for appliances.

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26 mins ago, The Fishing Nerd said:

practically consumable, the inkjet printer model for appliances.

Haha, who buys inkjets? I've got a cheap HP laser sitting in front of me that's at least 10 years old. Rock solid, and doesn't waste $10,000/gallon ink into the cleaning pads. I'm with you about the obsolescence. I had a Whirlpool range where the burner igniters started crumbling 18 months in and the whole freaking thing had to be disassembled to get at where their wiring was. Plus I stood there watching this idiot service guy unscrewing a dozen screws by hand. Guess they have to rack up time spent and cordless screw guns would cut into that! When they crumbled after that I simply yanked them out the top, cut the wires and used ceramic wire nuts to connect them. 5 minute job.

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9 hours ago, Scallywag said:

Check the float switch and check your water supply. Make sure you're getting good water pressure to the valve on the machine. 

I will try this

 

14 hours ago, rwalter7 said:

If you're not handy with a soldering iron, have some who is resolder every solder joint on the board.

I will try this as a last option before breakdown and buy a new one

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41 mins ago, odiemike86 said:

I will try this

 

I will try this as a last option before breakdown and buy a new one

I'm a little confused by your original post... Do you have control function or not, when not in diagnostic mode? 

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53 mins ago, Scallywag said:

I'm a little confused by your original post... Do you have control function or not, when not in diagnostic mode? 

I do not. The dishwasher will not do anything unless i press the 2 buttons combo within 6 seconds ( i forget the 2 buttons combo)  Otherwise when i press any buttons nothing happens.

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You said this is a Maytag? And how old is it? It's most likely a bad control panel. Membrane switches are garbage. 

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