sudanraghu2210

Need for weighing lure

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Hi,

I have been looking around to find answers to some of my quries, i am into the addiction of timber lure making as hobby.  Spend 9-10 hours on job and remaining hours on lure making and love wood carving. 

1). does lure requires weight even whenit  sit horizontal on the water surface and gives a good head to tail side to side action. Does it requires to sink down the lure slowly or fast either way to reach at the depth of getting the target species of fish.

2). i have seen in majority of lure making tutorials the weight is placed one at front and other at rarer of belly eye. In some cases 2 weights at front and one or 3 at the rarer of belly eye. What function it gives to the lure apart from balancing.

3).what action of the lure is expected if i put 2 gm weight in the front and .5gm to 1 gm at the rarer of belly weight. (more weight in the front & less at the rarer of belly eye)

It has been proved that - line tying, bib shape , angle of bib, design of lure affects / give action to the lure but i would appreciate if someone share his experience or resource which will help me to clear what functionality of  weighing a lure  apart from balancing and acheiving depth.

Thanks,

Regards, Raghubir:)

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Hi Raghubir,

I am glad you find this hobby exciting.  As always, experimentation is key and weight is only one variable.  As a plug designer, there are a few elements that you must take into consideration like center of gravity, center of compression, buoyancy, etc.  These are all balanced within the lure that you are trying to build.

 

My recommendation would be to forget about the tutorials and build a few lures with different weight placements and take notes on the different action.

 

To answer your questions in generic terms:

1.) No weight is not always required.

2.) Try to avoid weighting rules but as a general rule.  Weight in the front will help the plug dig into the water, weight in the back will help cast.  Both can be detrimental to swimming action and sometimes it can help.

3.) More weight in the front will reduce the casting and help the plug dig in.

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Hi Billy

 

Saw the notification while on the job, few minutes reached home to check your reply.

 

Thanks for your prompt reply and tips appreciated.:)

 

So far i have made around 30 timber lures (used pine wood) and in some of them i have put belly weight. All of them sit balance on the water surface without any lead weight except the weight of hooks , bib and through wire. They give good action even those without belly weight.

 

I am working with balsa now and have carved some of the lures and this weighing of belly was keep on hammering me. I thought of taking views of seniors into this hobby.

 

If you see the attached lure made by me i have put weight only in the chin of the lure and it gives side to side action from the belly eye till tail while head down. The back 2nd lure give again gives head to tail side action but not great, i weighted both at front & rarer of belly eye. The bib angle is at 40 degree.In the last pic, pink color gives fantastic action which is also weighted same  and in the same pic mackerel pattern lure  weighted same way but gives less action. All of them have bib angle at 40 degree and made in the same way and weight same as 24 gms.

 

Could you advise why there is difference though all made in same way - design, size, weight , bib angle , wire & hook size.

 

Thanks,

Regards Raghubir

 

 

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Different types of lures will need different amounts of lead and location of that lead. As noted by wrikerjr, some may not need lead at all. On the lures with lips (bibs), you might find that the hooks will provide enough weight that you do not need to add any. If they do need lead, one shot is probably all that will be needed. Bear in mind that the lead will act as a pivot point and the lure will rotate around this pivot point. Closer to the nose and you will get a wider tail wag. Closer to the tail and you get a tighter tail wag.

 

The the two bottom lures that you posted, I would try a little weight just behind the belly hook, or possibly at the belly hook. Enough lead so that only the back 1/3 of the lure is out of the water. 

 

On your top lure, you will likely find that you need a good amount of lead in the nose area, and another shot of lead behind the belly hook. These lures should sink, but rise on retrieve. 

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I look at it this way when you place a weight in a lure you are changing the center of gravity location this will change action and also add some balance if needed more toward head will have the tail swinging and the weight in the head acts like a node weight in the middle will even out and the action will occur in the middle the node changes and head and tail might move equally pivoting at that point when designing a new lure it takes some prototyping you superficial glue or tape a split shot or whatever form of weight using to see how action is affected don't forget to add hooks also, as they add weight, and change action.  do some test cast and make adjustment until you get what you want

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All great responses from jigman and onthefly.  The key to plug building is plug testing and tweaking.  Build 5 or 6 of the lures with different slots for weight, go down to the water and test them with different weights in each slot and take notes.  To me that is fun and how you learn about plug design and more importantly becoming a better angler.

 

Do not shortchange the process and you will be amazed what you learn.  What is shared in the forums are general rules but applying those rules is how you become proficient.

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Hi Billy

 

Saw the notification while on the job, few minutes reached home to check your reply.

 

Thanks for your prompt reply and tips appreciated.:)

 

So far i have made around 30 timber lures (used pine wood) and in some of them i have put belly weight. All of them sit balance on the water surface without any lead weight except the weight of hooks , bib and through wire. They give good action even those without belly weight.

 

I am working with balsa now and have carved some of the lures and this weighing of belly was keep on hammering me. I thought of taking views of seniors into this hobby.

 

If you see the attached lure made by me i have put weight only in the chin of the lure and it gives side to side action from the belly eye till tail while head down. The back 2nd lure give again gives head to tail side action but not great, i weighted both at front & rarer of belly eye. The bib angle is at 40 degree.In the last pic, pink color gives fantastic action which is also weighted same  and in the same pic mackerel pattern lure  weighted same way but gives less action. All of them have bib angle at 40 degree and made in the same way and weight same as 24 gms.

 

Could you advise why there is difference though all made in same way - design, size, weight , bib angle , wire & hook size.

 

Thanks,

Regards Raghubir

 

 

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Hi Good morning !!

 

Thank  you wrikerjr, onthefly and Jig Man for the fantastic inputs :thanks:, i was looking for the same.

Now i can goahead with balsa project.

 

Once again thanks to all of you from bottom of my heart.

 

Have a great Day.

 

Regards, Raghubir

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