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Wire For Fire

Rattle cans

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7 hours ago, Wire For Fire said:

Negative .. is it really that necessary? 

It covers up many mistakes

Say you got some silicone contamination on the plug after or during the sealing process, the primer will seal that away.

If you have a paint that might not adhere properly to the epoxy seal, it will virtually always adhere to the primer

And it's cheap - if you get it in the pour-able can and use a cheapo single stage airbrush to apply it (the rattle cans get costly) 

and it dries fast, so why not ??

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18 mins ago, Sudsy said:

It covers up many mistakes

Say you got some silicone contamination on the plug after or during the sealing process, the primer will seal that away.

If you have a paint that might not adhere properly to the epoxy seal, it will virtually always adhere to the primer

And it's cheap - if you get it in the pour-able can and use a cheapo single stage airbrush to apply it (the rattle cans get costly) 

and it dries fast, so why not ??

Thanks .. yea makes sense .. I’m pretty careful not touch after sealed .. plug normally stays on wire from when it drys after sealing till final coat of epoxy but maybe I give the primer a shot ... I ended up sanding all the paint off , washed it , let dry , repainted (again) and it came out good enough ... mucho glitter will hide any lil nonsense.. and it just a plug for me i plan on fishing the crap out of so no need to be perfect 

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I can sometime go weeks, even years between sealing and painting (I've got a blank or two lying around that I sealed with BLO - last time I use that stuff had to be well over 10 years ago), lots of time for bad stuff to get on the plug, so primer is a must do for me.

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43 mins ago, Sudsy said:

I can sometime go weeks, even years between sealing and painting (I've got a blank or two lying around that I sealed with BLO - last time I use that stuff had to be well over 10 years ago), lots of time for bad stuff to get on the plug, so primer is a must do for me.

Yea I hear ya .. I sadly don’t be have a lathe but have friend with one .. so I blast a few out or he tosses me some already spun and I finish them .. these last few I did were salty kits I got for my b day .. his pencil cast and fish well and they cheap enough .. got a nice darter painted today too I’m doing for my friend .. he having his first kid next month and gonna make it purty and put the kids initials and date of birth on it and surprise him with it .. might make a nice lil shadow box or lil plaque thing so he can display it nice 

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2 hours ago, Sudsy said:

It covers up many mistakes

Say you got some silicone contamination on the plug after or during the sealing process, the primer will seal that away.

If you have a paint that might not adhere properly to the epoxy seal, it will virtually always adhere to the primer

And it's cheap - if you get it in the pour-able can and use a cheapo single stage airbrush to apply it (the rattle cans get costly) 

and it dries fast, so why not ??

What kind of primer are you using? I have been using Zinnser in a white and blue can seems to be working fine and It does cover and fill in any little imprefections nicely and sands good but is aliitle pricey. I wouldn’t mind a quart or gal of spray on especially if it cleans up easy. I was using only spray paint and just started with a airbrush so I thought I would spray bomb my base coat and airbrush from there but I had problems with the airbrush paint blowing out I would spray it on and the spray paint was so slick the air from the gun would literally blow it around while wet I tried messing with the air pressure and paint thinning or not thinning no luck if I air brushed the base color seemed ok like it was smooth but just enuff bite to hold the paint any one else have this issue and how did you deal with it

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Zinnser is BIN - same stuff, Zinnser is the maker, BIN is the name

I prefer the red label, alcohol base product - everything sticks to it and it sticks to everything

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3 hours ago, OnTheFish said:

 I was using only spray paint and just started with a airbrush so I thought I would spray bomb my base coat and airbrush from there but I had problems with the airbrush paint blowing out I would spray it on and the spray paint was so slick the air from the gun would literally blow it around while wet I tried messing with the air pressure and paint thinning or not thinning no luck if I air brushed the base color seemed ok like it was smooth but just enuff bite to hold the paint any one else have this issue and how did you deal with it

Practice

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Posted (edited) · Report post

She ain’t perfect but she shall hunt ... haven’t tried their 6” 1.5 oz yet .. hope it fish as well as thier7” 2oz that I have been doing  very well on 

66A08966-EA15-4843-8F88-999F448D4A32.jpeg

Edited by Wire For Fire

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4 hours ago, Wire For Fire said:

She ain’t perfect but she shall hunt ... haven’t tried their 6” 1.5 oz yet .. hope it fish as well as thier7” 2oz that I have been doing  very well on 

66A08966-EA15-4843-8F88-999F448D4A32.jpeg

Very nice

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14 hours ago, Sudsy said:

Zinnser is BIN - same stuff, Zinnser is the maker, BIN is the name

I prefer the red label, alcohol base product - everything sticks to it and it sticks to everything

I guess clean up with denatured alcohol. That’s the one thing I really like about spray bomb no clean up. I may give it a go and just primer a bunch at once and clean up once instead of priming 2-3 at a time

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When I was building I lightly sanded the prime coat before paint. I used the rubber backed adhesive pads sold by Walmart. They were 150 grit. A light sand then wipe with soft  cloth or blow off with air hose. Paint immediately. Never had adhesion problems.

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