TranClanXT

2004 LC100 210k miles!

38 posts in this topic

36 mins ago, Wolfdog said:

On my cherokee I had to drop the transfer case one inch to get the driveshaft angles closer to stock. Maybe you can do something similar. 

Looks like I’m gonna have to get it done lol. Process of elimination. If not the drop then def it’s the ujoints. I got under and tried to move but it seems fine. No rust, greased up enough and all. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 mins ago, Wolfdog said:

Before you go throwing money at it consider my previous advice and try removing the drive shafts and test driving it. 

I may have to try this. Not sure if that’s even safe or advisable. I’ll have to look on other forums

 

thanks though dude

Edited by TranClanXT

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The front of your truck is REALLY high. the hundy likes a little rake from front to back.  Are those the stock torsion bars cranked or ARB? How much drop you still have in the front with that lift?   Definitely need a diff drop kit with that front lift.  If the front cv isn't leaking yet...it will be.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just looked again.  The vibes you're experiencing are the front diff.  The rear being packed with gear makes the angle worse in the front.  That's why it is not noticeable when the truck is empty.

 

- Diff drop kit (I happen to have an extra Slee kit(in NJ) for the hundy I'll sell to you for $200 or you can buy Christo and have it shipped from Golden, CO for $250) 

- lower the front OR hd springs in the rear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Kneel said:

The front of your truck is REALLY high. the hundy likes a little rake from front to back.  Are those the stock torsion bars cranked or ARB? How much drop you still have in the front with that lift?   Definitely need a diff drop kit with that front lift.  If the front cv isn't leaking yet...it will be.  

In the pics, the truck is very loaded up right before a trip lol. Trunk and hitch tray. The torsion bars are Arb and they do sit lower than the rear. It could benefit from lower another inch. 

 

Ive been mulling the diff drop, which could help. But also considering new cv’s since the truck is old with lots of miles. Where in nj are you?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 mins ago, TranClanXT said:

In the pics, the truck is very loaded up right before a trip lol. Trunk and hitch tray. The torsion bars are Arb and they do sit lower than the rear. It could benefit from lower another inch. 

 

Ive been mulling the diff drop, which could help. But also considering new cv’s since the truck is old with lots of miles. Where in nj are you?

 

The ARB 303001 torsion bars really need a bumper and winch up front to load them properly.  I guarantee they are not indexed properly on your rig with the stock front.  I doubt there is any compression at all.  As the fully laden rear compresses, it lifts the front even further where the front diff is impeded by the stock crossmember, creating the extreme angle and is causing the vibes. Definitely lower the front first if you're not installing a bumper.  What is the distance from the top of the tire to the top of the wheel arch, fronts and rears?  You definitely want the front lower than the rear.  If then you are over 1.5" over stock in the front, you'll want the diff drop. :th: 

 

If the boots aren't leaking, they're fine, unless of course they're empty. :eek:  I have 220k on my 2006 and it gets beaten like a redheaded stepchild. There are no old 100's yet...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
31 mins ago, Kneel said:

 

The ARB 303001 torsion bars really need a bumper and winch up front to load them properly.  I guarantee they are not indexed properly on your rig with the stock front.  I doubt there is any compression at all.  As the fully laden rear compresses, it lifts the front even further where the front diff is impeded by the stock crossmember, creating the extreme angle and is causing the vibes. Definitely lower the front first if you're not installing a bumper.  What is the distance from the top of the tire to the top of the wheel arch, fronts and rears?  You definitely want the front lower than the rear.  If then you are over 1.5" over stock in the front, you'll want the diff drop. :th: 

 

If the boots aren't leaking, they're fine, unless of course they're empty. :eek:  I have 220k on my 2006 and it gets beaten like a redheaded stepchild. There are no old 100's yet...

 

Thanks for the response man. I’ll measure when I get home. I know my mechanic left the front lower than the rear by an inch but I’ll have to confirm. 

 

My lower ball ball joints look crushed and need replacing. I may just get new cv’s vs diff drop. Or both.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's probably level unloaded, but full with all that gear it looks like you're doing a wheelie. With all that gear you need the 2864 rear coils. This is an old picture, but this is how your truck should sit unloaded.  These are 2864 rear coils.  When I have the truck loaded, it sits level. ARB front bumper, winch, and Slee Sliders. Those are 35's as well compared to the 33's on your rig...

 

IMG_1305.JPG.3fa1ba1e669e8af450888c5ee1d80fc8.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Kneel said:

It's probably level unloaded, but full with all that gear it looks like you're doing a wheelie. With all that gear you need the 2864 rear coils. This is an old picture, but this is how your truck should sit unloaded.  These are 2864 rear coils.  When I have the truck loaded, it sits level. ARB front bumper, winch, and Slee Sliders. Those are 35's as well compared to the 33's on your rig...

 

IMG_1305.JPG.3fa1ba1e669e8af450888c5ee1d80fc8.JPG

nice rig man. i may need to definitely lower the torsions a bit. i have heavy springs in the back knowing i'd be loading it pretty good. I may get a wilco hitchgate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Kneelalso is lowering the front as simple as turning that bolt counter clockwise a few turns? I’m considered a beginner when it comes to wrenching.  Obviously with the front end slightly jacked. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, TranClanXT said:

@Kneelalso is lowering the front as simple as turning that bolt counter clockwise a few turns? I’m considered a beginner when it comes to wrenching.  Obviously with the front end slightly jacked. 

 

PB Blast the crap out of it if it hasn't been turned in a while.  But sound like it has...

 

Left, lowers.

Right, raises.

 

ONE full turn is usually between a 1/4" to 1/3" of lift/drop.

 

WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED...fsm states 55mm is the MINIMUM amount of droop you should have.  Less is BAD.  Measure before and after. I bet you are close to 55mm now with the lift. 70-90mm is good and probably where you'll end up after dropping the front an inch or 2. Hopefully your mechanic didn't **** up the pre-load. :th: 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 mins ago, Kneel said:

 

PB Blast the crap out of it if it hasn't been turned in a while.  But sound like it has...

 

Left, lowers.

Right, raises.

 

ONE full turn is usually between a 1/4" to 1/3" of lift/drop.

 

WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED...fsm states 55mm is the MINIMUM amount of droop you should have.  Less is BAD.  Measure before and after. I bet you are close to 55mm now with the lift. 70-90mm is good and probably where you'll end up after dropping the front an inch or 2. Hopefully your mechanic didn't **** up the pre-load. :th: 

 

Awesome. The bars were done a few moths ago.  I’ll definitely be sure to mark it with a pencil before I dial it down. Thanks a lot man. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to register here in order to participate.

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.