TranClanXT

2004 LC100 210k miles!

38 posts in this topic

Picked this up and upsized from a Subaru Forester due to another addition to the family. Drives like freakin new!

 

it has a few issues that need fixing that are very minor, spent most of its life in Maryland so, underbody has no rust. Body looks clean. 

 

We took it onto ibsp at 20psi with ease and was just at sore thumb on Sunday trying to catch fluke while wife and son enjoyed the sun. Love the additional cargo capacity, my Subaru would utilize all of my roof and hitch carriers that would otherwise fit just fine in the land cruisers trunk (with the jump seats removed)

 

It has 210k miles with timing belt just done and will go another 200k easily. 

 

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Very nice.   Enjoy.   Every fluid has a drain and fill plug.  Very easy to replace diff, transfer, and trans fluids on it.   Put some used motor oil on the rusty spots underneath.  Brake and fuel lines, rust on body panels, and oil pans.   

 

Tht thing will treat you very well.

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On 9/11/2018 at 5:17 PM, salt deficient said:

Very nice.   Enjoy.   Every fluid has a drain and fill plug.  Very easy to replace diff, transfer, and trans fluids on it.   Put some used motor oil on the rusty spots underneath.  Brake and fuel lines, rust on body panels, and oil pans.   

 

Tht thing will treat you very well.

I did this over the weekend. Things were tight so, a little pb blaster was used. Had to impact it in some areas. Truck now is all synthetic and purrs smoothly. 

 

Also a lot has happened since I last posted:

 

subie is mine as well. Pic was taken st ibsp

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Quick question to help a fellow buggy owner out, I’ve been getting vibrations when accelerating to 30-40. It’s smooth after when I’m on the highway. Can’t really notice when it’s empty, but when loaded down you can feel it. Vibration stops when foot is off the gas, so that rules out any wheel balancing issues. It’s not rpm related.

 

thanks

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7 hours ago, TranClanXT said:

Quick question to help a fellow buggy owner out, I’ve been getting vibrations when accelerating to 30-40. It’s smooth after when I’m on the highway. Can’t really notice when it’s empty, but when loaded down you can feel it. Vibration stops when foot is off the gas, so that rules out any wheel balancing issues. It’s not rpm related.

 

thanks

Single piece driveshaft or two piece? If two, check out the carrier bearing. I would still check out the universal joints anyways, but many times the carrier bearing is not speed related. 

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8 mins ago, bospa357 said:

Single piece driveshaft or two piece? If two, check out the carrier bearing. I would still check out the universal joints anyways, but many times the carrier bearing is not speed related. 

Two piece. I’m reading it could be u joints. I greased them all over the weekend too. Didn’t feel any play. 

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3 mins ago, TranClanXT said:

Two piece. I’m reading it could be u joints. I greased them all over the weekend too. Didn’t feel any play. 

Check that carrier bearing out. Most do not have a grease fitting.

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Vibrations under acceleration mean its a drivetrain issue. Probably a drive shaft out of balance. If you can remove the front drive shaft and take it for a test drive that will help rule out the front.   

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2 mins ago, Wolfdog said:

Vibrations under acceleration mean its a drivetrain issue. Probably a drive shaft out of balance. If you can remove the front drive shaft and take it for a test drive that will help rule out the front.   

i think that could be it. when the truck is loaded down, i could feel the vibrations more, not so much when empty. 

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37 mins ago, TranClanXT said:

i think that could be it. when the truck is loaded down, i could feel the vibrations more, not so much when empty. 

You can also test the rear driveshaft by doing the same thing you will need to put it in four wheel to test it. FYI a bad u joint will often click and bang but not always. 

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On 7/1/2019 at 6:39 PM, TranClanXT said:

Two piece. I’m reading it could be u joints. I greased them all over the weekend too. Didn’t feel any play. 

Correct me if i'm wrong,i believe you put some type of lift on this vehicle? CV joint vehicles don't like running at more extreme angles than designed for,they will but wear at an accelerated pace.

Often with cross and cap u joints,you have to disconnect shaft and work u joint thru all its angles by hand. Any direction u joint is tighter or looser would cause me to inspect it closer. What's miles on vehicle?

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1 hour ago, Wolfdog said:

@TranClanXT any luck diagnosing your rig? 

been digging around other forums, sounds like it could be a few things. biggest culprit could be the u joints. another issue could be the dynamics of the vehicle shifting due to the lift so, i may have to get a diff drop kit. it's either of the two. 

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