The Riddler

Old Town PDL Drive Water Proof above water line or not?

13 posts in this topic

For those who are challenging if the Old Town PDL drive is sealed above the water line?  Here is the the factory source from Johnson Outdoors-who answered my email.  My reivew of the Predator PDL was based on facts.  Before I put my name on a review I will get the facts right.   I saved all emails and contscts just in case if someone wants to  know the source of my information.  I stand by what I write. Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by The Riddler

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I believe you that the one you got wasnt sealed ontop, but I inspected my friends who got his this spring and there is a definite seal ontop on his, so to me it seems they realised a mistake in their design and addressed it

Edited by fishfinder401

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It’s not a matter of being believed this is the way the PDL drive has been designed . There has been no changes to the PDL drive internally. If there has been a change old town will telll us.?

 

We want the facts. All you have is the crank arm that passes through a bearing. The same thing with the Slayer Propel.  It looks like there is a seal but it doesn’t have it. 

 

 

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Photo shows closeup of the PDL drive bearing stamped “24”.  This is a stainless bearing with crank arm going through it. That gap is just one typical and critical area all these pedal drive kayaks have problems sealing.

 

Native, Perception/wilderness and Old Town will have issues sealing.  If Old Town has an O-ring or seal between bearing and crank, bearing in the drive housing, and sealed bearing itself?  I would like to hear it from Johnson Outdoors so we can get it right.  Because the 2017 model does not have one.

 

 

 

 

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Edited by The Riddler

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I see the plastic cover they used over the bearing. This would help shield water like boot drips and other stuff. Native did the same thing.  You still have the steel crank passing through a bearing. Steel on steel doesn't seal. You need an oring in there or try to do what Vanstaal and ZB does and it will be expensive to do this.

 

I would like to hear from Johnson Outdoors and let us know if any seal is present between crank and bearing. If so, what is it?

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Here's the letter I got from Old Town re the water tightness of the PDL drive:

 

Thank you for the email and questions in regards to the Predator PDL and PDL drive unit. The round 6” hatch cover used for small storage on the PDL-drive unit is not 100% water tight so you may see water in there depending on the paddling conditions. We suggest using a small dry bag for any goods you’d like to store in there and keep completely dry.

 

The actual PDL drive itself is entirely sealed, otherwise elements inside would start to rust. There are a couple places on the drive that can trap water however, without it being in the drive: a) the skeg has an air pocket which bubbles briefly when the unit is put in water, and consequently drips water when removed, and b) if submerged low enough water can get trapped under the orange plastic PDL name plates. I would find it frustrating to put my PDL drive somewhere in the carpeted part of my vehicle and have water continue to drip out. So if it does become submerged, we suggest to let it drip out before putting it in your vehicle.

 

The drive is salt water rated, probably used there equally to freshwater amongst our customers. Flipping it has no bearing on it, as mentioned above it is a sealed unit. The console however can catch and retain water. When used in saltwater, we recommend at least rinsing the drive and soak the lower drive in a bucket of freshwater and give the pedals a few rotations. We also would recommend prop removal after every trip out to check and make sure that the prop shaft is not fouled with fishing line.

 

Customers can cause a unit to leak by not taking care of the prop shaft. If fishing line is wrapped around the shaft and left on there for any length of time, it can wear through the seal and allow water into the lower housing, which eventually travels throughout the drive. This can happen with both braided and monofilament line. Something like this is considered wear and tear would not be covered by any warranty.

 

Hope this helps and please let us know if you might have any other questions. Thank you and have a great day.

 

 

Regards,

 

Jon Ballesteros

Customer Service Representative

Johnson Outdoors Watercraft

Old Town Canoes and Kayaks, Ocean Kayak, & Carlisle Paddles

Tel: 1-800-343-1555

jballesteros@johnsonoutdoors.com 

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Hold onto that letter!  I want to see how they sealed where the crank assembly passed through the bearing.  Maybe thrhey have a cut out showing us.  If they provide that I will update my review on the 2017 PDL thread. 

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" The round 6” hatch cover used for small storage on the PDL-drive unit is not 100% water tight so you may see water in there depending on the paddling conditions.

 

I was pretty pissed to discover that as it "looks" like watertight storage -with locking mechanism and tight rubber seal under the lid. I always getting water there. 

 

And I should thank Riddler for his review and follow-up where you warn about rusting prop's nut. I greased the are to the extreme and put a coat of automotive undercoating spray on top of it. Planning to remove it at the end of the season, to check it out.

 

Edited by oceanAddict

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Here is where we are at. Two emails sent out to Johnson Outdoors inviting them to this thread or to mail a response how the PDL drive is now waterproof compared to the 2016-2017 Drive. Also visited the PDL owners Group on Social Media. No response. Nobody seems to have the answers on how this drive is water proof.

 

Any PDL owner feel like submerging their drive for about 15-20 minutes and report back? Video would be nice. Open up the bottom and see what you get for water. Open up the drive and see where their is a seal inside between the bearing and the crank arm?

Edited by The Riddler

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