StripedBasstardz

CTS VT 12', 2pcs - 2-4oz Build (Concept drawing)

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Hey guys. I'm piecing together a concept drawing for a CTS VT 12' surf that I'm attempting to build. It'll be paired with my Van Staal VR50, using PP-Maxcuatro 20lb braid, throwing mainly 2oz jigs and 3oz poppers. I'm all about absolute lightweight and performance so look is my least concern for now. It's a work in progress so any help or comments will be much appreciated!

 

1.) Optimal guide layout/location for maximum distance.

2.) Reel seat location

 

5b8584eb6c856_RodconceptModel(1).jpg.df47bbcf36417d379b7a167a82d6920a.jpg

Edited by StripedBasstardz

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For a 12' I think your butt to reel stem will prove to short.

Yes, it can be done, but your timing and strength will be close to super-human.

Not saying you should use 32", but consider something like 22-24"

Distance between reel and 1st guide can be dropped quite a bit; just by pushing the reel up a bit you could achieve this.

For your choice of reel and braid, somewhere around 26"-28" from spool face to 1st guide will work fine and @ 28" would work just fine with a bigger reel, a long cast Ultergra 5500 works just fine with the RV25 @ 30"

Also the distance between the RV25 and RV16 is way to much:

The line, especially when wet, will balloon out and quite likely slap against the blank, drop it to around 15"

You will probably need to add a guide or two, work on the following:

RV25 RV16 KW10M KW8 to say 6x KW6's (could try KT7's instead) for 10 + tip top.

Neat drawing.

Buy a few extra running guides so you can Tape and Test.

 

 

Edited by ZAFisher

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27 mins ago, ZAFisher said:

For a 12' I think your butt to reel stem will prove to short.

Yes, it can be done, but your timing and strength will be close to super-human.

Not saying you should use 32", but consider something like 22-24"

Distance between reel and 1st guide can be dropped quite a bit; just by pushing the reel up a bit you could achieve this.

For your choice of reel and braid, somewhere around 26"-28" from spool face to 1st guide will work fine and @ 28" would work just fine with a bigger reel, a long cast Ultergra 5500 works just fine with the RV25 @ 30"

Also the distance between the RV25 and RV16 is way to much:

The line, especially when wet, will balloon out and quite likely slap against the blank, drop it to around 15"

You will probably need to add a guide or two, work on the following:

RV25 RV16 KW10M KW8 to say 6x KW6's (could try KT7's instead) for 10 + tip top.

Neat drawing.

Buy a few extra running guides so you can Tape and Test.

 

 

Thanks! I move the reel seat to 22" from the end and it does look better.

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I have the same blank. Mine is kw30-kl25-20-12-kt8(x5). I did not like this rod as a 12'. After using multiple times I decided to take 6" off the tip. Certainly a risky move but it didn't have much to lose since I wasn't using it at 12'. It handles up to ~3oz now. Before the chop - no way was it throwing 3oz. 

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Ditto re ZA's 'neat drawing' - what software did you did it in & can you easily adjust per any suggestions ???

 

Get us yr final layout ...

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1 hour ago, frazerp said:

Ditto re ZA's 'neat drawing' - what software did you did it in & can you easily adjust per any suggestions ???

 

Get us yr final layout ...

Drawn in CAD based on actual and known scale. I can make change as needed. And yes I'll definitely share the finale design.

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I would still look at tightening up the distance btwn guides 2 and 3. Line control and getting to a straight (line looks like its straight during the cast) is what you are doing here. 

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I agree with Mike.

I am playing with a new 11' for the local Black Hole distributors.

Reduction layout attached.\

We can compare notes?

 

 

Black Hole East Coast Special 11' light.jpg

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I also agree with Mike. He's not just speculating, he wrapped this blank for me with 6 inches off the tip. It's a rocket with spoons and jigs in the 2 ounce range. I have it paired with a stradic 5000, with 10lb fireline and run 30lb braid as a shock leader. Both Mike and ZA really know their rods.

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11 hours ago, SurffisherMike said:

I would still look at tightening up the distance btwn guides 2 and 3. Line control and getting to a straight (line looks like its straight during the cast) is what you are doing here. 

I'll tweak the layout some more. I'm basically looking for that sweet spot between line management on hard cast and still maintain natural or proper load on the blanks.

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not sure what you mean by natural/proper load on the blank. if you are talking about the load on the blank under pressure (cast or fish fighting), if you are reducing the space between guides you can only improve on that. it may require another guide in the end but that wont be a detriment 

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10 mins ago, SurffisherMike said:

not sure what you mean by natural/proper load on the blank. if you are talking about the load on the blank under pressure (cast or fish fighting), if you are reducing the space between guides you can only improve on that. it may require another guide in the end but that wont be a detriment 

Yep. Under casting load and fighting fish.

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Seems like it's time to tape it up  -- I have found that a PH Neutral Masking Tape is the best, been fishing 2 sticks for the past several months & the guides have not moved.

And once you are ready to wrap, there is little or no residue.

Buy the 1" wide & cut it the widths you need, also the rubber band sets from MH are very useful in placing guides. Best buy for the tape is an art supply store (d***blick for example).

 

And both ZA & Mike seem to think yr reduction layout should be reduced - easy to do once you are happy w/the reel seat placement.

 

Just to further confuse you - I just picked up an AFAW 11' Estuary, dual rung & the butt to reel seat is 27-3/8" & then 34-1/4" to the 24 stripper - still measuring - so later ... 

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