erz

11' two-piece CTS Vapor Trail 1-3oz build suggestions?

14 posts in this topic

I'm going to be ordering a CTS and I was wondering if anybody has some experience or recommendations on guide sizing and spacing? I was thinking of doing 25/20/16/10 to the tip.

 

I'm slightly out of my element as I generally build fly rods so spacing on this kind of rod is a new concept to me. I was going to use the method that Lou Caruso demonstrates in one of his videos where he places the runners an equal distance apart and then ties a string from the last runner to the center of the reel to place the choker guides.

 

I may eventually switch the reel to a larger size (VS150 to 200 or equivalent) on the rod so the method above kind of puts me off. I don't know if it will make a noticeable difference or if there is any factory recommended spacing—if there is, I can't seem to find them.

 

I was thinking of using Fuji's KL Titanium Blackened SiC guides over the Torzites since the set of guides will likely cost more than the blank. The CTS is so light that I don't think the guides that weigh a few grams more will break my build.

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

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Check it out w/KLH Fazelites - KL 20H, KL 12H, KL8M, KL7L + maybe 6 KT7 runners (depending on stripper & reel seat placement) & a 7 or 8 MN Tip-Top.

Stripper length for the 150 will be a bit less than for the 200. And if you are willing to use a Fuji LS-7 (really well taped on) seat, you can screw around with butt to reel placement & use other reels.

Fuji's Fazelites like yr KL SICs are part of their CC series & not to be filed down, so wrapping them is a bit of a challenge.

Also highly recommend that you use Billy V's Epoxy Mix on all the wraps ...

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Hey - just super curious, do they supply a 2 pc bag w/the cost of the blank ???

 

For those of us building the best of the best, I can't get custom rod bags made for close to 10-25% of the cost of guides & other components, but at almost 3 bills CTS ought to provide a rod bag ... 

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12 mins ago, frazerp said:

Hey - just super curious, do they supply a 2 pc bag w/the cost of the blank ???

 

For those of us building the best of the best, I can't get custom rod bags made for close to 10-25% of the cost of guides & other components, but at almost 3 bills CTS ought to provide a rod bag ... 

I couldn't agree more.. At least a sticker or a hat or something, lol..

 

I'm going to send you a PM.

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Two options...

kw30-25-20-12-8 (single or double or a combo of both). 

 

rv25-16 kw10m the either kw or kt runners size 8. 

 

Not sure why cts should throw in something. If you don’t like the price then don’t buy the blank. It’s pretty easy...

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14 hours ago, erz said:

 I was thinking of doing 25/20/16/10 to the tip.

 

 

 

I may eventually switch the reel to a larger size (VS150 to 200 or equivalent) on the rod so the method above kind of puts me off. .

 

I was thinking of using Fuji's KL Titanium Blackened SiC guides over the Torzites since the set of guides will likely cost more than the blank. The CTS is so light that I don't think the guides that weigh a few grams more will break my build.

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

1. Are you using the VS150 now?

2. Braid?

3.There's a big difference between a 150 vs 200, any specific reason you are thinking of changing?

4. if you opt for KL's, go for the high framed KR concept versions and think about dropping to #8 running guides.

If #4 above gives you the heeby jeebies, start with a KW30 (high version, not the low KW30L) down to a 25 then a 20 and then a 12 or 10, then the running guides you want.

 

My own rods of this type start with a #25 RV to a #16 RV to a KW10M a KW8 and then a forest (7x) of KT7's

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for your responses!

 

Yes, I'll be using a VS150 with braid.. I was thinking of getting a VSX200 but I'll likely just switch the one reel back and forth between rods..

 

The only other CTS rod I've used was their centerpin rod and I loved it.

 

I was afraid the 30H may be too high for the VS150 but what do I know?

 

Is there any particular methods you guys use to determine the guide spacing?

Edited by erz

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if the 30 is to high on paper dont worry about it, it will work fine. putting a kw25 on as a stripper will limit you. the guide is to low to use as a stripper guide for that setup

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I would go with  30/25/20/12/7/7/7/7/7 and tip ;   with 8 or 9 guides plus tip for this cts blank and size of reeel you plan to use;  it will cast well. 

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Posted (edited)

On 8/15/2018 at 0:33 PM, ZAFisher said:

1. Are you using the VS150 now?

2. Braid?

3.There's a big difference between a 150 vs 200, any specific reason you are thinking of changing?

4. if you opt for KL's, go for the high framed KR concept versions and think about dropping to #8 running guides.

If #4 above gives you the heeby jeebies, start with a KW30 (high version, not the low KW30L) down to a 25 then a 20 and then a 12 or 10, then the running guides you want.

 

My own rods of this type start with a #25 RV to a #16 RV to a KW10M a KW8 and then a forest (7x) of KT7's

 

150 and braid.. I was thinking of using the 150 for my lighter rod and going with the 200 for the new 11 foot build. I'll probably just switch the reel back and forth though.

 

On 8/15/2018 at 10:31 PM, SurffisherMike said:

if the 30 is to high on paper dont worry about it, it will work fine. putting a kw25 on as a stripper will limit you. the guide is to low to use as a stripper guide for that setup

 

3 hours ago, fishing1975 said:

I would go with  30/25/20/12/7/7/7/7/7 and tip ;   with 8 or 9 guides plus tip for this cts blank and size of reeel you plan to use;  it will cast well. 

 

Is there any particular reason everybody is recommending KWs? After doing some reading it seems like people have contradicting opinions on the castability of single foot KL/LYs.

 

now I think I may do high double foots into single foot runners or just doubles down the entire rod..

Edited by erz

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the new single foot k's have a better frame design and will tangle you line less. \

you can do a mix, go with the kw30 (its a highframe) them kl20,12, then kt8's

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Posted (edited)

1 hour ago, SurffisherMike said:

the new single foot k's have a better frame design and will tangle you line less. \

you can do a mix, go with the kw30 (its a highframe) them kl20,12, then kt8's

 

I can't seem to find any size 30 single foots so I think that's what I'll do..

 

As far as determining proper guide spacing, does anybody have some suggestions on what methods are good?

Edited by erz

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Figure out where your choke point is. Put whatever guide your using as your choke, probably kw8 or kt8. Then take your stripper guide and place it anywhere from 26-30” from the top of the spool. Then take your remainding reduction guides which is kw25, kw20, kw12 and bullseye them between your stripper and choke guide. 

 

You probably will need 7-8 running guides. From tip to first running guide I normally start anywhere from 4-4.5”. Do a deflection test to determine if the line flows correctly with the blank to perfect where the running guides will remain permanently before you wrap and epoxy. Good luck and let’s see some pictures when your done. 

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