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Slipping dumbells

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FishHawk II

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FishHawk - a number of suggestions: I always tie a small thread bump on the hook shank just slightly ahead of where  I want the barbell eyes to rest.  The bump is proportionate to the barbell eye size - small bump = small eyes, big bump = L eyes...   The barbell eyes are then laid onto the hook shank directly behind and against the bump, (behind being between the bump and hook bend).  The first two or three thread wraps to secure the eyes to the shank are always done with pressure applied forward - that is I pull the thread so it tighten the barbells against the thread bump.  I will do two or three in one direction, then switch out and do two or three in the opposite direction (the typical criss-cross wraps).  I will do up to 5 consecutive wraps in one direction before switching to the other. Once the barbells are held in place, I just wrap the heck out of them to fill in the barbell gap as I see fit. But, always maintaining an even number of wraps on both sides- criss-crossing.  As you know the barbells may twist to one side because of greater thread pressure, when this happens I just wrap the other way, providing finger pressure on the barbells if they do not straighten out with thread wraps.  

 

The last and most critical step is the locking thread wraps.  Once you do your criss-cross wraps, I then do several helicopter wraps to lock in them in.  This means I make my wraps between the barbells and the hook shank - the thread wraps under the barbells, but over the hook shank.  

 

If I am using anything but XL eyes I find I seldom need to lay down a base layer of thread first, before putting the barbells on.  Although this is a good step when using larger eyes, I find it unnecessary.  I no longer use glue on my thread wraps to lock the barbells in place because it takes to long to dry and they never seem to need em.

 

If you're doing all of this and still having difficulty then you need to up your thread size and apply greater tension.

 

Hope this is helpful.  PS- I learned this technique from Bob Clouser which may also be found in his book Clouser's Flies.     

Edited by M. saxatilis
Life is too precious to fish ugly flies.
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16 mins ago, M. saxatilis said:

FishHawk - a number of suggestions: I always tie a small thread bump on the hook shank just slightly ahead of where  I want the barbell eyes to rest.  The bump is proportionate to the barbell eye size - small bump = small eyes, big bump = L eyes...   The barbell eyes are then laid onto the hook shank directly behind and against the bump, (behind being between the bump and hook bend).  The first two or three thread wraps to secure the eyes to the shank are always done with pressure applied forward - that is I pull the thread so it tighten the barbells against the thread bump.  I will do two or three in one direction, then switch out and do two or three in the opposite direction (the typical criss-cross wraps).  I will do up to 5 consecutive wraps in one direction before switching to the other. Once the barbells are held in place, I just wrap the heck out of them to fill in the barbell gap as I see fit. But, always maintaining an even number of wraps on both sides- criss-crossing.  As you know the barbells may twist to one side because of greater thread pressure, when this happens I just wrap the other way, providing finger pressure on the barbells if they do not straighten out with thread wraps.  

 

The last and most critical step is the locking thread wraps.  Once you do your criss-cross wraps, I then do several helicopter wraps to lock in them in.  This means I make my wraps between the barbells and the hook shank - the thread wraps under the barbells, but over the hook shank.  

 

If I am using anything but XL eyes I find I seldom need to lay down a base layer of thread first, before putting the barbells on.  Although this is a good step when using larger eyes, I find it unnecessary.  I no longer use glue on my thread wraps to lock the barbells in place because it takes to long to dry and they never seem to need em.

 

If you're doing all of this and still having difficulty then you need to up your thread size and apply greater tension.

 

Hope this is helpful.  PS- I learned this technique from Bob Clouser which may also be found in his book Clouser's Flies.     

 

Good advice / description.     Similar to the basic lashing many of us learned in scouting or other outdoor activities.    Thread bump to nestle the eyes helps a lot as well.

 

HT

 

Currently have aphasia.    Aphasia is a result of my head stroke causing a bleed.   Happened in my Maine vacation in July (2021).   Lucky me less than 1% of people get stroke aphasia.  :(      I'm making project but have been told this is easily 5 months to 1 year for this to improve.   Until then hope you don't mind making sense with what I text.   HT

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I also tie tu bump. But I start only wrapping one direct real tight. Then I twist the eyes back to perpendicular. Then wrap the other wY till it stays in the correct orientation. You know it’s right when it takes a lot of effort to twist them. The doa few criss cross. Zap gap then more criss cross. Then clockwise between the eyes and hook shank. Never had the move. 

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superglue gel

I hope you apply that right away after a few wraps to position the eye.

Liquid super glue with penetrate the thread better.

That's what I use.

Caution:  I put a paper towel down to protect my vise base.

Using the liquid and wrapping produces some splattering.

Nothing flies by me without a hook!
If my fly is down, That's a good thing.

Public Access.....It's a shore thing. My daily requirement of "Vitamin Sea".


Capt. Ray Stachelek

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Once you are done wrapping and gluing, put a drop of super glue between the eyes then tie in a piece of flat diamond braid in front of the eyes. Pull it over the eyes then tie it down behind them followed by some helicopter wraps.

This helps secure the eyes and looks nicer then just thread wraps between the eyes.

SF

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  • 5 months later...

Thread pillow,glue,place the eye,wrap x cross,then around between the eye and shank,x cross,glue.If you want Bob Clousers book I'll bring it on Monday to read that part.I'll bring a different thread to use for making the pillow on the shaft of the hook.

Edited by theshadow
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  • 2 weeks later...

I fish clousers a lot.  And often my eyes fall off after a session or 2.  I think it hit rocks, the beach behind me, and the casting action will cause the eyes to come loose.  I don't wrap the bucktail over the eyes like he does in the video (thanks for that).  I think I might now and use epoxy like he says.

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46 mins ago, sardean said:

I fish clousers a lot.  And often my eyes fall off after a session or 2.  I think it hit rocks, the beach behind me, and the casting action will cause the eyes to come loose.  I don't wrap the bucktail over the eyes like he does in the video (thanks for that).  I think I might now and use epoxy like he says.

 

Are your eyeballs falling off as a result of breaking in half?

If so, you are likely using lead eyes. Try brass eyes and that problem pretty much goes away.

 

I do the same thing. I haven't tied bucktail over the eyes on a clouser in years.

I always tie the belly in behind the eyes.

SF

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I use what I have.  They come lose and fall off.  Highly doubt they break in half.  I don't tie in the belly but will now as well.  I don't really mind losing flies and or dumbells.  I just tie more and have more with me.  I don't really expect them to hold up forever.  But when its really cold it sucks to change flies when you don't have to.

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