Vaporizor

carved glide bait

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10 mins ago, Seaweed 65 said:

I used Smooth on for my molds and Fabri cast for the resin. Easy to drill for lead and through wire.

Is this the resin you used

image.jpg

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3 mins ago, Vaporizor said:

Is this the resin you used

image.jpg

Yes sir.. keep em out of the light and at a somewhat even temp as you store . And keep lids tight! Air bad

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I keep it in a cabinet and thanks about the oxy decomposing. See if I can rig a way to displace air with argon? Here is the plug unweighted 3.6 oz. with 3g of micro balloons mixed with 120 grams of resin makes it just float

image.jpg

Edited by Vaporizor
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9 mins ago, Vaporizor said:

I keep it in a cabinet and thanks about the oxy decomposing. See if I can rig a way to displace air with argon? Here is the plug unweighted 3.6 oz. with 3g of micro balloons mixed with 120 grams of resin makes it just float

image.jpg

Now she just needs to dance!

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For some reason o had much better luck using a commercial spray primer than the air brush primer. I have not made a resin plug in a couple of years. I miss the consistent product of resin! But love the Cedar a bit more.

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2 hours ago, Seaweed 65 said:

For some reason o had much better luck using a commercial spray primer than the air brush primer. I have not made a resin plug in a couple of years. I miss the consistent product of resin! But love the Cedar a bit more.

Yeah I do not own a airbrush, rattle can guy. I like this resin what would take a couple days to carve 1 now I can cast 4 in 1 hr. Fun playing with new materials. I made one dead bait ....not enough micro balloons. Trying to test the limits. Don’t go less than 2 grams of balloons per 120 grams of total resin. It will loose buoyancy . I have a bunch of cedar blanks, love turning it.

7E3C0FBA-1E4D-4B10-934F-A2DC1D127EAC.jpeg

0CDF3B0C-83DA-46E5-B827-8728DF18C377.jpeg

image.jpg

Edited by Vaporizor

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I tend to find that gliders work better if the body is light. Lead adds the weight to them. Once you have the resin/balloon formula worked out, and the location/amount of lead, you can mold the lead into the plug and save a couple of steps. Can likely add the lead on the wire that you are using. 

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Looking great man! I'm right behind you. I started carving a new mold master this weekend. How would you say the mold retained your carving detail? Exact? Pretty close? A little rough? 

 

54 mins ago, Jig Man said:

I tend to find that gliders work better if the body is light. Lead adds the weight to them. Once you have the resin/balloon formula worked out, and the location/amount of lead, you can mold the lead into the plug and save a couple of steps. Can likely add the lead on the wire that you are using. 

 

Jiggy, so you think its better to make them bouyant, and then place the lead for action...vs. getting the mixture perfect so it slow sinks without lead? 

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6 mins ago, JimmyJam said:

Looking great man! I'm right behind you. I started carving a new mold master this weekend. How would you say the mold retained your carving detail? Exact? Pretty close? A little rough? 

 

 

Jiggy, so you think its better to make them bouyant, and then place the lead for action...vs. getting the mixture perfect so it slow sinks without lead? 

You can get pretty good detail on the mold.

 

Lead drives the bait to glide. More buoyant = more lead = better glide. Other things come into play too, like thickness of the plug (too thin it won't glide right), flatness of the sides (flat sides are good), and others. 

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1 hour ago, Jig Man said:

I tend to find that gliders work better if the body is light. Lead adds the weight to them. Once you have the resin/balloon formula worked out, and the location/amount of lead, you can mold the lead into the plug and save a couple of steps. Can likely add the lead on the wire that you are using. 

Lead on the wire works great . Did this with some Darters I cast along with extra weight.

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3 hours ago, Jig Man said:

I tend to find that gliders work better if the body is light. Lead adds the weight to them. Once you have the resin/balloon formula worked out, and the location/amount of lead, you can mold the lead into the plug and save a couple of steps. Can likely add the lead on the wire that you are using. 

i did a lot of testing yesterday, 3 grams of balloons per 120 grams of resin made them float and 1/4 oz of lead by bottom hanger made it neutral, i tried to go to 2 grams of balloons and it was a dead bait sank with out lead . so 3 per 120 seems to me about the min i found for this bait. also i found when i made the through wire used tail weights on the wire before i bent it and then crimped them in place on the through wire. that worked out very well . jig man thank you very much for your advice , it has made this project proceed better and faster than expected

 

2 hours ago, JimmyJam said:

Looking great man! I'm right behind you. I started carving a new mold master this weekend. How would you say the mold retained your carving detail? Exact? Pretty close? A little rough? 

 

 

Jiggy, so you think its better to make them bouyant, and then place the lead for action...vs. getting the mixture perfect so it slow sinks without lead? 

jimmy thats awesome! doing the mold was really simple.the mold will replicate whatever you do, make sure you sand it well and get it exactly how you want your lure to look like 

Edited by Vaporizor

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3 mins ago, Vaporizor said:

i did a lot of testing yesterday, 3 grams of balloons per 120 grams of resin made them float and 1/4 oz of lead by bottom hanger made it neutral, i tried to go to 2 grams of balloons and it was a dead bait sank with out lead . so 3 per 120 seems to me about the min i found for this bait. also i found when i made the through wire used tail weights on the wire before i bent it and then crimped them in place on the through wire. that worked out very well . jig man thank you very much for your advice , it has made this project proceed better and faster than expected

 

jimmy thats awesome! doing the mold was really simple.the mold will replicate whatever you do, make sure you sand it well and get it exactly how you want your lure to look like 

Thanks, bud. I always go crazy with finishing, but wasn't sure if I should carve scales. I think I'm gonna carve em. :)

 

So no little gaps or holes or anything? Comes out just like the wood master?

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5 mins ago, JimmyJam said:

Thanks, bud. I always go crazy with finishing, but wasn't sure if I should carve scales. I think I'm gonna carve em. :)

 

So no little gaps or holes or anything? Comes out just like the wood master?

i did a dismal job on my first scale attempt , take your time and do bigger scales are much easier so be sure to lay it out like 5/16 grid. i had issues with grain lifting when doing the scales , so next time im going to seal it before i carve to lock help stop that grain from lifting. i used popular for my master

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34 mins ago, Vaporizor said:

i did a dismal job on my first scale attempt , take your time and do bigger scales are much easier so be sure to lay it out like 5/16 grid. i had issues with grain lifting when doing the scales , so next time im going to seal it before i carve to lock help stop that grain from lifting. i used popular for my master

I use poplar for my tails and I know exactly what you mean. It's like the fibers start to get wispy, right? Before you go that far, can I recommend you try 3/4" hard maple? 

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2 hours ago, Jig Man said:

You can get pretty good detail on the mold.

 

Lead drives the bait to glide. More buoyant = more lead = better glide. Other things come into play too, like thickness of the plug (too thin it won't glide right), flatness of the sides (flat sides are good), and others. 

 

Yea, I'm just wondering if it's worth it to go ALL in with the carving, since it's the master. I think i will. 

Hopefully I can just use less lead than I did before. This puppy was 3.5 after epoxy. 

lead.jpg

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