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DIY Fly Lines

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Although it makes some noise going through guides this splice has served me well splicing two broken sections of  heavy sinking fly line together. Use a 6 inch piece of 50 lb gudebrod braided butt leader as a sleeve. Push one fly line into sleeve about 3 inches, nail knot end of sleeve with 10 turn 12 lb test mono. Pull mono tight to get Chinese finger effect and put another 5 turn nail knot at end of fly line in middle of sleeve. Thread second fly line into sleeve and butt up against end of first fly line in middle of sleeve and pull sleeve as tight as possible, nail knotting end of that line (5 turn) at butt joint being careful that both lines touch and butt squarely. Pull sleeve tight and nail  knot other end of sleeve to  second section of fly line with 10 turn nail knot. Trim ends of sleeve and coat knots with pliobond. Perhaps this is overly complicated and may defeat Chinese finger effect of sleeve but it is important to nail knot both ends of fly line sections at butt joint else lines move around, separate slightly and hinge as well as push out of sleeve during the tremendous force of casting. I am all for building your own lines and experimenting with various configurations. Over twenty years ago when lines were becoming more specialized i picked up many DT lines for a song and I still have some, brand new in box. Now it is nearly impossible to find 10 or heavier weight DT lines to experiment with but there are closeouts all over the web which have possibilities. 

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I had an idea just pop in my head. I weld my own loops and they look factory(super easy). So what if you slice the line so you can fold it out of the way. Maybe a few inches or so or more if needed on both lines where you want to splice it. Do some sort of knot in the braid then lay the fly line coating(what you folded back). Once you do this get clear I/8 inch heat shrink slide it over the area you want to weld. Make the heat shrink a bit longer then the area you want to weld ( so you can cut the heat shrink off after) once you get it all in place and the materials laid on nice grab a heat gun with a tip you can weld line with this meathod with a lighter too just need to be careful. Heat the area you spliced all the way to where the cuts start until they weld back together. Let cool and cut the heat shrink off. If you made a piece long enough. You should have a spot you didn’t shrink tight. Slide the scissors in there cut a bit and peel it off. Not sure if this will be a option but if a small size knot was used and the the weld comes out good it will be pretty smooth 

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3 mins ago, Theflyguy said:

I had an idea just pop in my head. I weld my own loops and they look factory(super easy). So what if you slice the line so you can fold it out of the way. Maybe a few inches or so or more if needed on both lines where you want to splice it. Do some sort of knot in the braid then lay the fly line coating(what you folded back). Once you do this get clear I/8 inch heat shrink slide it over the area you want to weld. Make the heat shrink a bit longer then the area you want to weld ( so you can cut the heat shrink off after) once you get it all in place and the materials laid on nice grab a heat gun with a tip you can weld line with this meathod with a lighter too just need to be careful. Heat the area you spliced all the way to where the cuts start until they weld back together. Let cool and cut the heat shrink off. If you made a piece long enough. You should have a spot you didn’t shrink tight. Slide the scissors in there cut a bit and peel it off. Not sure if this will be a option but if a small size knot was used and the the weld comes out good it will be pretty smooth 

I think that's what Crunch did actually. I've been walking back and forth in the factory I work in, looking at the extrusion machines and braiding machines, core pull operations etc. I'm a habitual tinkerer ever since I exploded the spring on my Perrine auto reel decades ago, looking at those machines was like a kid walking by a candy store. Without divulging details I saw one fiber we make as part of a device that looked like it might be even better than my braided mono, but the engineer working on it gave me a weird look when I asked him if he had 100' extra and what the breaking strength was so I guess it probably ain't gonna happen... I think if I can somehoiw figure out what the original sonar line I used on mine actually was and can find another I have enough miracle braid to get exactly what I want for my 9 weight. Dreams of going on Shark Tank with a no twist line capable of massive distance will have to wait...

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7 mins ago, Theflyguy said:

I had an idea just pop in my head. I weld my own loops and they look factory(super easy). So what if you slice the line so you can fold it out of the way. Maybe a few inches or so or more if needed on both lines where you want to splice it. Do some sort of knot in the braid then lay the fly line coating(what you folded back). Once you do this get clear I/8 inch heat shrink slide it over the area you want to weld. Make the heat shrink a bit longer then the area you want to weld ( so you can cut the heat shrink off after) once you get it all in place and the materials laid on nice grab a heat gun with a tip you can weld line with this meathod with a lighter too just need to be careful. Heat the area you spliced all the way to where the cuts start until they weld back together. Let cool and cut the heat shrink off. If you made a piece long enough. You should have a spot you didn’t shrink tight. Slide the scissors in there cut a bit and peel it off. Not sure if this will be a option but if a small size knot was used and the the weld comes out good it will be pretty smooth 

 

FlyGuy,

 

That was/is going to be my initial approach.   Possibly using a uni-knot for joining the braided core.     Thinking I'm going to build some type of jig/fixture to hold the line to cut to "near center" so as to not cut the core but allow me to "peel" it out of the pvc/pu, thus maximizing material available for welding and finishing up the joint. 

 

Right now I have a lead on picking up a number of Skagit/Spey heads and if that comes to fruition I'll measure their diameters to design up a slice & dice fixture and I'll be on my way.   Pretty much all hinging on being able to buy low cost line material to get me started as I'm assuming I've got a lot to learn and practice, a lot of practice, makes perfect.     If this works as I hope it will I'll post progress reports.

 

HT

 

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4 mins ago, stormy monday said:

I think that's what Crunch did actually. I've been walking back and forth in the factory I work in, looking at the extrusion machines and braiding machines, core pull operations etc. I'm a habitual tinkerer ever since I exploded the spring on my Perrine auto reel decades ago, looking at those machines was like a kid walking by a candy store. Without divulging details I saw one fiber we make as part of a device that looked like it might be even better than my braided mono, but the engineer working on it gave me a weird look when I asked him if he had 100' extra and what the breaking strength was so I guess it probably ain't gonna happen... I think if I can somehoiw figure out what the original sonar line I used on mine actually was and can find another I have enough miracle braid to get exactly what I want for my 9 weight. Dreams of going on Shark Tank with a no twist line capable of massive distance will have to wait...

 

Hopefully we can all compare notes on our way to making fine tuned lines to match not only our rods but our style of casting.... a fun endeavor for sure.

 

HT

 

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10 mins ago, stormy monday said:

I think that's what Crunch did actually. I've been walking back and forth in the factory I work in, looking at the extrusion machines and braiding machines, core pull operations etc. I'm a habitual tinkerer ever since I exploded the spring on my Perrine auto reel decades ago, looking at those machines was like a kid walking by a candy store. Without divulging details I saw one fiber we make as part of a device that looked like it might be even better than my braided mono, but the engineer working on it gave me a weird look when I asked him if he had 100' extra and what the breaking strength was so I guess it probably ain't gonna happen... I think if I can somehoiw figure out what the original sonar line I used on mine actually was and can find another I have enough miracle braid to get exactly what I want for my 9 weight. Dreams of going on Shark Tank with a no twist line capable of massive distance will have to wait...

Line twist was always an issue for me when stripping clousers in the surf ( I dunno why) until I started using a tiny swivel between leader and tippet, or at the end of the fly line. Boom! No more twist. 

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I got very little twist when I replaced the SA running ine section with the Airflo Miracle Braid - not none but very little. I was thinking if a braid like that could be extruded between a thin core and an outer jacket perhaps the pattern of the braid could discourage twisting. Unfortunately I cannot afford a Steeger braider and extrusion machine to test that theory so this will have to do. But if I ever win Powerball....

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5 mins ago, stormy monday said:

I got very little twist when I replaced the SA running ine section with the Airflo Miracle Braid - not none but very little. I was thinking if a braid like that could be extruded between a thin core and an outer jacket perhaps the pattern of the braid could discourage twisting. Unfortunately I cannot afford a Steeger braider and extrusion machine to test that theory so this will have to do. But if I ever win Powerball....

if you ever win the lottery, I can see it now: Stormy Monday™ Fly Lines.

 

"You use a Hardy reel and a Sage rod... you're ready for a Stormy line."

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This is how I have joined lines which cores are very tight braid. First picture show the coating slits and cores which I have smeared using PU glue and which are tied together using a reef knot. Then the knot is first wrapped with thread using fly tying bobbin about ten times. On second picture I have closed the slits and cut protruding cores shorter and frayed them using a needle. Last step I folded frays back over the already threaded section and wrapped more making it smooth. This join comes strong and with practice as slim as the line elsewhere. There is more coating on those slits but when I wrap they compress. I believe smearing PU glue so that core and thread get fused together is important.

 

I don't make slits to thin shooting line when I join it to thick shooting head but I make shooting head slits longer and if possible three of them so the reef knot gets compressed inside the coating and slits also compress to the shooting line coating as well.

 

Esa

20180429_235925.jpg

20180430_002732.jpg

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On 6/27/2018 at 4:22 PM, stormy monday said:

I didn't strip off any plastic coating. The Airflo miracle braid is a braided mono with some sort of core in it. I stripped out probably 4" of that core to make the braided mono hollow, then inserted the 4" of green original running line into it (it was a very tight fit btw), finishing off with a nail knot because I don't trust the whole "chinese handcuff" thing fully and the nail knot (actually more like wrapping a trim band on a rod) keeps the end of the miracle braid from fraying. The nail knot only gets aquaseal. So far I've only gotten fish to just below the 28" mark with it, but they have been in very shallow water so I got a good fight out of them with no sign of potential failure. I'm looking for another SA just like it so I can rig it up for my 9 weight..

I just had that "Chinese handcuff" come loose on me recently on Miracle Braid, so you were right not to trust it!

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Anyone familiar with Al Buhr’s book “How to Design Fly lines”. Is it worth buying and are there good sources of information on procurement of raw materials?

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26 mins ago, flyrad10 said:

Anyone familiar with Al Buhr’s book “How to Design Fly lines”. Is it worth buying and are there good sources of information on procurement of raw materials?

These books are no longer in print and I just bought the last two copies from an online fly shop.   I had trouble finding anyone still carrying them.  Came in two days ago but haven't had time to dig too deeply into it just yet.

 

HT

 

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16 hours ago, crunch said:

This is how I have joined lines which cores are very tight braid. First picture show the coating slits and cores which I have smeared using PU glue and which are tied together using a reef knot. Then the knot is first wrapped with thread using fly tying bobbin about ten times. On second picture I have closed the slits and cut protruding cores shorter and frayed them using a needle. Last step I folded frays back over the already threaded section and wrapped more making it smooth. This join comes strong and with practice as slim as the line elsewhere. There is more coating on those slits but when I wrap they compress. I believe smearing PU glue so that core and thread get fused together is important.

 

I don't make slits to thin shooting line when I join it to thick shooting head but I make shooting head slits longer and if possible three of them so the reef knot gets compressed inside the coating and slits also compress to the shooting line coating as well.

 

Esa

14 hours ago, sms said:

This is one type my friend uses:

https://www.perhokalastajat.net/keskustelu/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=69121

 

I use simpler method, but don’t have it documented unfortunately.

 

We have been using these whipped joints a lot (for salmon lines mainly) for a long time and the work great.

 

Esa / SMS,

 

Thanks for posting your technique... great to see how others are doing this.   Much food for thought.

 

HT

 

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