ADTR14 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 Well I made a little progress last night. Just to recap: 1st weight scheme was a complete dud 2nd weight scheme changing out to the heavier weights added some action 3rd try I added a weight just behind the belly hook, complete dud 4th time I removed the tail weight...now I have something. It floats, but will dive just below the surface and glide back and forth on a steady retrieve or kind of dip/roll when twitched. It sits pretty level with how the weights are placed so last night I removed some material from the tail area, mostly to make the shape more appealing to my eye but maybe influence the action a little. We’ll see Thanks again for those following along and giving me advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADTR14 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 How it sits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otshawytsha Posted June 13, 2018 Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 Nice work. My thought is that removing wood anywhere on a plug, even for a looks motive, is always about the function because you are removing buoyant material, changing the balance of the plug by making one part less buoyant, and thus changing swim. So, for examplle, the eyes you drilled on plug--what is function of them? One thing they do is change balance point of plug because that's buoyant material that's been removed. wvbud22 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADTR14 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Otshawytsha said: Nice work. My thought is that removing wood anywhere on a plug, even for a looks motive, is always about the function because you are removing buoyant material, changing the balance of the plug by making one part less buoyant, and thus changing swim. So, for examplle, the eyes you drilled on plug--what is function of them? One thing they do is change balance point of plug because that's buoyant material that's been removed. Very true! I’ll try to get a video up to see what you guys think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvbud22 Posted June 14, 2018 Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, Otshawytsha said: Nice work. My thought is that removing wood anywhere on a plug, even for a looks motive, is always about the function because you are removing buoyant material, changing the balance of the plug by making one part less buoyant, and thus changing swim. So, for examplle, the eyes you drilled on plug--what is function of them? One thing they do is change balance point of plug because that's buoyant material that's been removed. I’m Not good with the gliders at all but what he says is gospel. Things that float & things that sink. Every move you make will change something. not always a bad thing. Edited June 14, 2018 by wvbud22 Add Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADTR14 Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Well after a little more testing I decided to build it. My first foil job turned out ok, I’ll have to work on that a little, but overall happy with the product. Final testing should be in the next day or two, then actually fish with it! Thanks all for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_evan1 Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 PM me if you need help building your stick bait. I’ve gone through the trials and tribulations of making both horizontal slow sinking, and floating versions from about 7”, all the way to 12” for tuna. You were at first describing what is finding the perfect balance between stability and instability. It sounds like you’ve been on 360 tuna but in case you haven’t there’s a guy on there who’s an awesome resource of knowledge regarding the traditional Japanese style stickbait you appear to be building. I also see you getting inspiration from lures meant to target GT and tuna like the ASWB. I’d be happy to discuss anything from head shape, lead position, wire frames, foiling, line tie positions, hook selection etc Big Dee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asmedeiros1990 Posted August 30, 2018 Report Share Posted August 30, 2018 (edited) This is a plug I’ve started working on even before I started making pencils , metal lips etc . Been learning everything I need to know because I’m making mines out of resin . Search on google there’s a few websites that teaches you alot stuff about stickbaits .This one I’m working on right now . Building a few out of wood to test action then I’ll make a mold . I wanna make sure I get it right the first time Edited August 30, 2018 by Asmedeiros1990 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADTR14 Posted August 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2018 On 8/25/2018 at 10:27 PM, Dan_evan1 said: PM me if you need help building your stick bait. I’ve gone through the trials and tribulations of making both horizontal slow sinking, and floating versions from about 7”, all the way to 12” for tuna. You were at first describing what is finding the perfect balance between stability and instability. It sounds like you’ve been on 360 tuna but in case you haven’t there’s a guy on there who’s an awesome resource of knowledge regarding the traditional Japanese style stickbait you appear to be building. I also see you getting inspiration from lures meant to target GT and tuna like the ASWB. I’d be happy to discuss anything from head shape, lead position, wire frames, foiling, line tie positions, hook selection etc I appreciate that! I plan to build a few more in the next month or so before I head down to Mexico. Pretty happy overall with the action of this one, but I’m sure there’s room for improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADTR14 Posted August 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2018 1 hour ago, Asmedeiros1990 said: This is a plug I’ve started working on even before I started making pencils , metal lips etc . Been learning everything I need to know because I’m making mines out of resin . Search on google there’s a few websites that teaches you alot stuff about stickbaits .This one I’m working on right now . Building a few out of wood to test action then I’ll make a mold . I wanna make sure I get it right the first time I like the shape! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADTR14 Posted August 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2018 The stripers are just starting to show in my local waters, so I’ll be throwing this plug quite a bit soon. First test did get me a decent green fish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaltyDriftWood Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 Great Looking bait tight there like the wrap. but am curious of the hardware you use for the Tuna /GTGrade plugs , i was researching actual stainless rod, but not sure of the strength flexibility ect. any insight on this would be awesome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_evan1 Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 On 3/2/2019 at 0:44 AM, SaltyDriftWood said: Great Looking bait tight there like the wrap. but am curious of the hardware you use for the Tuna /GTGrade plugs , i was researching actual stainless rod, but not sure of the strength flexibility ect. any insight on this would be awesome For my Tuna/GT lures I have tried everything from traditional 1.6mm 304/308 stainless all the way to 1.8, 2, 2.2, and 2.4mm 316 stainless. If you plan on doing a tailwrap style lure with a swivel and not a wire frame with fixed hangers, I’d suggest using 2mm. Anything thicker than that is pretty difficult to get tight wraps with. It can be done, but you need some serious vice grip work. These attached pictures show a tuna stickbait I made using 2.2mm 316 stainless with a 4/0 Spro Swivel. Getting the tailwrap locked in was a job and a half ADTR14 and lonellr 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onthefly Posted April 2, 2019 Report Share Posted April 2, 2019 this is my 7 inch muskie glider it swims perfectly and glide with hardly a twitch needed made of pvc 3 drop shot weights I got from dicks sporting goods don't remember the sizes but in the pack I use large about 1/2 inch in front of belly hook a medium slightly towards the back end of middle and the small drop weight about 1/2 inch from tail end the lure sites perfectly balanced and when retrieved the head digs a little bringing it down to about 2 ft where it glides and zig zags with no effort just a easy twitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to register here in order to participate.
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now