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Stickbait help

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ADTR14

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Well I made a little progress last night.

 

Just to recap:

 

1st weight scheme was a complete dud

2nd weight scheme changing out to the heavier weights added some action

3rd try I added a weight just behind the belly hook, complete dud

4th time I removed the tail weight...now I have something. It floats, but will dive just below the surface and glide back and forth on a steady retrieve or kind of dip/roll when twitched. It sits pretty level with how the weights are placed so last night I removed some material from the tail area, mostly to make the shape more appealing to my eye but maybe influence the action a little. We’ll see

 

Thanks again for those following along and giving me advice

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Nice work. My thought is that removing wood anywhere on a plug, even for a looks motive, is always about the function because you are removing buoyant material, changing the balance of the plug by making one part less buoyant, and thus changing swim. So, for examplle, the eyes you drilled on plug--what is function of them? One thing they do is change balance point of plug because that's buoyant material that's been removed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Otshawytsha said:

Nice work. My thought is that removing wood anywhere on a plug, even for a looks motive, is always about the function because you are removing buoyant material, changing the balance of the plug by making one part less buoyant, and thus changing swim. So, for examplle, the eyes you drilled on plug--what is function of them? One thing they do is change balance point of plug because that's buoyant material that's been removed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Very true! I’ll try to get a video up to see what you guys think

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5 hours ago, Otshawytsha said:

Nice work. My thought is that removing wood anywhere on a plug, even for a looks motive, is always about the function because you are removing buoyant material, changing the balance of the plug by making one part less buoyant, and thus changing swim. So, for examplle, the eyes you drilled on plug--what is function of them? One thing they do is change balance point of plug because that's buoyant material that's been removed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m Not good with the gliders at all but what he says is gospel. 

Things that float & things that sink. Every move you make will change something. 

not always a bad thing. 

Edited by wvbud22
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Well after a little more testing I decided to build it. My first foil job turned out ok, I’ll have to work on that a little, but overall happy with the product. Final testing should be in the next day or two, then actually fish with it! 

 

Thanks all for the help

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  • 2 months later...

PM me if you need help building your stick bait. I’ve gone through the trials and tribulations of making both horizontal slow sinking, and floating versions from about 7”, all the way to 12” for tuna. You were at first describing what is finding the perfect balance between stability and instability. It sounds like you’ve been on 360 tuna but in case you haven’t there’s a guy on there who’s an awesome resource of knowledge regarding the traditional Japanese style stickbait you appear to be building.

 

I also see you getting inspiration from lures meant to target GT and tuna like the ASWB. I’d be happy to discuss anything from head shape, lead position, wire frames, foiling, line tie positions, hook selection etc

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This is a plug I’ve started working on even before I started making pencils , metal lips etc . Been learning everything I need to know because I’m making mines out of resin . Search on google there’s a few websites that teaches you alot stuff about stickbaits .This one I’m working on right now .  Building a few out of wood to test action then I’ll make a mold . I wanna make sure I get it right the first time 

A481F1E4-E27E-43B7-BBF1-76C477108E0A.jpeg

Edited by Asmedeiros1990
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On 8/25/2018 at 10:27 PM, Dan_evan1 said:

PM me if you need help building your stick bait. I’ve gone through the trials and tribulations of making both horizontal slow sinking, and floating versions from about 7”, all the way to 12” for tuna. You were at first describing what is finding the perfect balance between stability and instability. It sounds like you’ve been on 360 tuna but in case you haven’t there’s a guy on there who’s an awesome resource of knowledge regarding the traditional Japanese style stickbait you appear to be building.

 

I also see you getting inspiration from lures meant to target GT and tuna like the ASWB. I’d be happy to discuss anything from head shape, lead position, wire frames, foiling, line tie positions, hook selection etc

I appreciate that! I plan to build a few more in the next month or so before I head down to Mexico. Pretty happy overall with the action of this one, but I’m sure there’s room for improvement.

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1 hour ago, Asmedeiros1990 said:

This is a plug I’ve started working on even before I started making pencils , metal lips etc . Been learning everything I need to know because I’m making mines out of resin . Search on google there’s a few websites that teaches you alot stuff about stickbaits .This one I’m working on right now .  Building a few out of wood to test action then I’ll make a mold . I wanna make sure I get it right the first time 

A481F1E4-E27E-43B7-BBF1-76C477108E0A.jpeg

I like the shape!

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  • 6 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
On 3/2/2019 at 0:44 AM, SaltyDriftWood said:

Great Looking bait tight there like the wrap. but am curious of the hardware you use for the Tuna /GTGrade plugs , i was researching actual stainless rod, but not sure of the  strength flexibility ect. any insight on this would be awesome 

For my Tuna/GT lures I have tried everything from traditional 1.6mm 304/308 stainless all the way to 1.8, 2, 2.2, and 2.4mm 316 stainless. If you plan on doing a tailwrap style lure with a swivel and not a wire frame with fixed hangers, I’d suggest using 2mm. Anything thicker than that is pretty difficult to get tight wraps with. It can be done, but you need some serious vice grip work. 

 

These attached pictures show a tuna stickbait I made using 2.2mm 316 stainless with a 4/0 Spro Swivel. Getting the tailwrap locked in was a job and a half 

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this is my 7 inch muskie glider it swims perfectly and glide with hardly a twitch needed made of pvc 3 drop shot weights I got from dicks sporting goods don't remember the sizes but in the pack I use large about 1/2 inch in front of belly hook a medium slightly towards the back end of middle and the small drop weight about 1/2 inch from tail end  the lure sites perfectly balanced and when retrieved the head digs a little bringing it down to about 2 ft where it glides and zig zags with no effort just a easy twitch

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