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Teak...from now on, going this route

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A while ago, I inquired about the chemistry of Te-Ka, my fav teak cleaner, as I had a large patio set to do.

 

All from Homies for 15-20% of te-ka given the amount I have to do.

 

Same results.

 

Disclaimer, this was my first chair, didn't go nuts and missed some spots as I didn't know how it was going to turn out

 

 

20180602_180943.jpg

Edited by makorider
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Do it again and scrub it with a short, stiff bristled brush and a ton more mud, as I call it, will come out. After neutralizing, also called 'brightening', and allowing to dry thoroughly sand the and treat the chairs with Semco teak sealer. Semco seals in the wood's natural oil and gives some UV protection that lasts much longer than oil finishes. 'Teak oil', which isn't oil from teak wood, is actually harmful to the wood because it has solvents that remove the wood's natural oil Stay away from it. It may look great when first applied, but it has no UV protection and quickly fades and has to be reapplied often which removes the wood's natural defense... its oil.  

 

I just spent 6 hours hand scrubbing a 6' diameter table and 6 folding teak chairs for a client. They had 0 care for several years and had turned gray with mildew, algae, moss, lichen and black stains covering a large percentage of the surfaces.  Significant amounts of the soft grain had eroded and the surface was quite rough.  Going back Monday to sand it all and apply Semco sealer. It will never look like it did they day they paid $3000 for it, but it won't look like something Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer would sit on under an old oak tree anymore.

 

BTW - Wolman Deckbrite, a powdered deck cleaner, makes 2.5 gallons of cleaner for $12. Wolman doesn't  specify that it has to be neutralized, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to do so. 

 

Let us know how your project turns out.

 

Bait is for old men and little boys... real men plug.

 

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2 hours ago, WoodyCT said:

Do it again and scrub it with a short, stiff bristled brush and a ton more mud, as I call it, will come out. After neutralizing, also called 'brightening', and allowing to dry thoroughly sand the and treat the chairs with Semco teak sealer. Semco seals in the wood's natural oil and gives some UV protection that lasts much longer than oil finishes. 'Teak oil', which isn't oil from teak wood, is actually harmful to the wood because it has solvents that remove the wood's natural oil Stay away from it. It may look great when first applied, but it has no UV protection and quickly fades and has to be reapplied often which removes the wood's natural defense... its oil.  

 

I just spent 6 hours hand scrubbing a 6' diameter table and 6 folding teak chairs for a client. They had 0 care for several years and had turned gray with mildew, algae, moss, lichen and black stains covering a large percentage of the surfaces.  Significant amounts of the soft grain had eroded and the surface was quite rough.  Going back Monday to sand it all and apply Semco sealer. It will never look like it did they day they paid $3000 for it, but it won't look like something Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer would sit on under an old oak tree anymore.

 

BTW - Wolman Deckbrite, a powdered deck cleaner, makes 2.5 gallons of cleaner for $12. Wolman doesn't  specify that it has to be neutralized, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to do so. 

 

Let us know how your project turns out.

Yep.  Everything will be sanded.  And there is a can of Semco at the beach house waiting for it. This isn't my first teak rodeo.

 

I was just trying to find a cheaper out then Te-Ka, and I got the same results for a fraction.  Actually, the blue crystals in the drain cleaner looked exactly the same.  Some form of caustic soda I guess.

 

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:th:

I went into the shop in town that sells porch and patio furniture and I asked if they refurbished teak and ipe outdoor furniture, which they sell a ton of.  Nope. And they couldn't name anyone who did. I smell an opportunity.

Bait is for old men and little boys... real men plug.

 

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On ‎6‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 7:57 PM, WoodyCT said:

Do it again and scrub it with a short, stiff bristled brush and a ton more mud, as I call it, will come out. After neutralizing, also called 'brightening', and allowing to dry thoroughly sand the and treat the chairs with Semco teak sealer. Semco seals in the wood's natural oil and gives some UV protection that lasts much longer than oil finishes. 'Teak oil', which isn't oil from teak wood, is actually harmful to the wood because it has solvents that remove the wood's natural oil Stay away from it. It may look great when first applied, but it has no UV protection and quickly fades and has to be reapplied often which removes the wood's natural defense... its oil.  

 

I just spent 6 hours hand scrubbing a 6' diameter table and 6 folding teak chairs for a client. They had 0 care for several years and had turned gray with mildew, algae, moss, lichen and black stains covering a large percentage of the surfaces.  Significant amounts of the soft grain had eroded and the surface was quite rough.  Going back Monday to sand it all and apply Semco sealer. It will never look like it did they day they paid $3000 for it, but it won't look like something Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer would sit on under an old oak tree anymore.

 

BTW - Wolman Deckbrite, a powdered deck cleaner, makes 2.5 gallons of cleaner for $12. Wolman doesn't  specify that it has to be neutralized, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to do so. 

 

Let us know how your project turns out.

 

Man, now you have me thinking...and worried. 

 

How much do you think I need for an 8ish foot table and six chairs?  I've only used it on covering boards prior.

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Amount... hmmm.

 

I was very liberal with the cleaner as the wood was a big mess of mold, mildew, algae and even lichen built up over years of being neglected. I used 2.5 gal. each time I washed a 6' table and 6 folding chairs. 

 

Unless your teak is in terrible condition you  probably won't use as much as I did.

20180531_193950.jpg

Bait is for old men and little boys... real men plug.

 

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26 mins ago, WoodyCT said:

.

20180531_194302.jpg

20180531_194120.jpg

 

Fugly Woody!

 

no, I was referring to the Semco.  I don't know how much I have in the garage at the beach.  I'm thinking (now that I started sanding) not enough.  I started calling around and I can't find anyone who has it on the shelf!

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  • 3 months later...

So I can't believe I had forgot about the Semco stuff.

 

Here is the table as it sits today.  Hasn't been touched..well, other than the fact that my wife (arrgh) scrubbed a spot with a scotch brite pad in July trying to get soy stains out; I had to lightly go over the whole thing to even (take) out the color.

 

Pretty happy with how it weathered

 

 

20181002_144837.jpg

Edited by makorider
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  • 2 months later...

I have been thru several products for the teak on my ‘78 Robalo. I have teak everywhere. First I used te-ka to really clean it then applied amazon prep to remove any remaining chemicals or moisture then applied oil. Well the oil lasted about a month then some of the wood would turn black. Strip again re-oil. Repeat. Had enough.

Tried Starbrite Teak Oil Sealer. Looked ok first year. Reapplied year 2, eehhh. Strip wood again with Te-ka. Sanded down to beautiful like original. Should I leave it or once again apply something? Researched. Between Honey Teak, a 2 part product and Sikkens Cetol. Sikkens won. Applied 3 coats base, 3 coats clear. Good entire season. Season 2, light sanding, reapply clearcoat. Ok. Season 3 moisture under clear around rodholders resulted in me stripping coverboards and then I simply decided to chemically strip it all AGAIN as part of my overall current restoration.

convince me about Semco and I may try it. Otherwise I’m going to Jamestown Distributors for a top quality 2 part product.

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6 hours ago, Retainer said:

I have been thru several products for the teak on my ‘78 Robalo. I have teak everywhere. First I used te-ka to really clean it then applied amazon prep to remove any remaining chemicals or moisture then applied oil. Well the oil lasted about a month then some of the wood would turn black. Strip again re-oil. Repeat. Had enough.

Tried Starbrite Teak Oil Sealer. Looked ok first year. Reapplied year 2, eehhh. Strip wood again with Te-ka. Sanded down to beautiful like original. Should I leave it or once again apply something? Researched. Between Honey Teak, a 2 part product and Sikkens Cetol. Sikkens won. Applied 3 coats base, 3 coats clear. Good entire season. Season 2, light sanding, reapply clearcoat. Ok. Season 3 moisture under clear around rodholders resulted in me stripping coverboards and then I simply decided to chemically strip it all AGAIN as part of my overall current restoration.

convince me about Semco and I may try it. Otherwise I’m going to Jamestown Distributors for a top quality 2 part product.

Yeah, I did sikkens too at one point.  Great until its not then it sucks.

 

As you can see, that table was out all season.  June through October.  If you look, you will see two or three grey spots....and only because my wife took a scotch brite pad trying to get soy stains out after a drunken night with friends and a loin of yft

 

There is no black

 

I cold put on another coat or two and roll if not for those grey spot.  No cleaning or sanding needed at this point.

 

Application is easy.   Just keep stirring the stain.  I got honey because thats whats on the shelf.  My chairs I see go from lighter color to darker color as I worked down the can!  They are alot more even now after weathering.  

 

IDK.  There is no perfect answer.  This is what the big boys use on their covering boards, completely completely forgot about it until I saw it on a shelf.  So far impressed.

 

If I was doing trim pieces on boat...next time I'm going to pull it all, give it a couple coats of epoxy, then shoot it with multiple coats of clear imron and be done with it forever.  If you havn't seen that....its yacht quality beatiful, high gloss and no maintenence.  

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