Lagerhead

Waxing the boat

81 posts in this topic

On 4/4/2018 at 9:24 AM, makorider said:

As I mentioned earlier, I had a detailing business on the side in-between working deck.  I was a huge believer in Collinites for the longest time.  Despite the fact that applying it correctly is a PIA.

 

8, maybe 10 years ago someone turned me on to Rejex.  Not so much a wax as a polymer.  For whatever that's worth, or whatever that means.  What I can tell you is that if you think Collinite's lasts, and stuff doesn't stick to it, then you are in for a real treat if you try Rejex.

 

Rejex lasts so long that the boat looked better and better with each spring application.  It really lasts that long. After one of the first years I used it, I went to pick up the boat (indoor storage at the time) and I kinda blew a gasket and went ape**** on the manager, I thought he had waxed the boat which, SOP for several years running at that point was a big no-no, no one but me details the Mako.   And it is soooo much easier to apply than Collinites.  Just make sure you go over the hull with a rag and acetone to get rid of any remaining wax before you apply it the first time.

 

I kid you not. 

Tried the Rejex on my fiberglass yak and also a composite yak and  was very impressed.  The marks I would get on the hull from the rubber portion of the yak racks wipe right off, I used to have to scrub them with a magic sponge and it was a PIA.  Thanks for the recommendation!!!!!!

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15 hours ago, YakDawg said:

Tried the Rejex on my fiberglass yak and also a composite yak and  was very impressed.  The marks I would get on the hull from the rubber portion of the yak racks wipe right off, I used to have to scrub them with a magic sponge and it was a PIA.  Thanks for the recommendation!!!!!!

Yep, NP.

 

I noticed dried chum comes right off as well.  

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For Fiberglass you need a Real High Speed High Power Porta Grinder with a buffing pad. Its going to cost a few Hundred Buck. I need one for my boat if anyone is feeling generous or wants to practice Wax On Wax Off. It has to get hot to really work the wax into the gelcoat. Thoe cheap washy waxy buffers are fine for a car but wont work for a boat.

9-in Grinder .jpg

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DO NOT use a grinder for compounding or waxing....use the tool for the job, a VARIABLE speed buffer polisher.

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On ‎7‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 0:42 PM, TheBoat said:

For Fiberglass you need a Real High Speed High Power Porta Grinder with a buffing pad. Its going to cost a few Hundred Buck. I need one for my boat if anyone is feeling generous or wants to practice Wax On Wax Off. It has to get hot to really work the wax into the gelcoat. Thoe cheap washy waxy buffers are fine for a car but wont work for a boat.

9-in Grinder .jpg

So much I disagree with in this post, especially the tool pictured.

But then I am not waxing anymore...… Rejex. Easy on, wipe off, no more buffing.....

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I really like the Big Powerful Porta Grinders for doing large jobs. Years ago I tried a ****** little Orbital Wax Polisher on my little 30 ft Alura and it took days to wax & buff it. way too much work.  Years before I stripped all the paint off  the hull of a 48 ft Owens using a 9 inch buffer with the 50 grit sandpaper disks. In the days before GFCI and it was freezing rain in Groton, CT in Feb/March.  Damm near was electrocuted.   the New Modern Grinders and much better insulated and always use a GFCI  . A good Comprimise for my little 24 ft Shamrock would be something like this smaller less expensive 7 inch one. Its going to take longer to do the job but weighs less & easier to handle.     Offer is open if anyone wants to wax my boat you can come fishing.

 

7 inch Portable Grinder .jpg

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