Lagerhead

Waxing the boat

82 posts in this topic

1 hour ago, makorider said:

You are thinking of Polyglow, or the equivalent

Exactly. Good move by walking away from the removal job. 

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I'll have to try Rejex on the boat. Seems as though I may have used it on a car at one time. Collonite works well but it is a royal pain to work with.

If it gets dry and hard to remove, just hit it with any quick detailer and it will help with the removal.

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6 hours ago, makorider said:

As I mentioned earlier, I had a detailing business on the side in-between working deck.  I was a huge believer in Collinites for the longest time.  Despite the fact that applying it correctly is a PIA.

 

8, maybe 10 years ago someone turned me on to Rejex.  Not so much a wax as a polymer.  For whatever that's worth, or whatever that means.  What I can tell you is that if you think Collinite's lasts, and stuff doesn't stick to it, then you are in for a real treat if you try Rejex.

 

Rejex lasts so long that the boat looked better and better with each spring application.  It really lasts that long. After one of the first years I used it, I went to pick up the boat (indoor storage at the time) and I kinda blew a gasket and went ape**** on the manager, I thought he had waxed the boat which, SOP for several years running at that point was a big no-no, no one but me details the Mako.   And it is soooo much easier to apply than Collinites.  Just make sure you go over the hull with a rag and acetone to get rid of any remaining wax before you apply it the first time.

 

I kid you not. 

Thanks, I am a huge believer in Col. but you have peaked my interest now.

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1 hour ago, Stonesipher said:

Thanks, I am a huge believer in Col. but you have peaked my interest now.

Yeah, I was a Collinite fanboy back in the day lol

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Posted (edited)

On 4/4/2018 at 5:12 PM, makorider said:

Yeah, I was a Collinite fanboy back in the day lol

I use Collinite. It is hard to get off. What did I miss I didn’t read all of the post. I been using collinite cleaner wax. That seems to come off with lot less work. I don’t use the one in picture anymore, it’s just to hard to get off. 

2CBEDBDF-1940-493A-A932-4416B906DDA5.jpeg

Edited by Marty

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I bought this a few years ago.

Makita

10 Amp 7 in. Corded 3,000 RPM Variable Speed Polisher with Side Handle, Wool Bonnet

It works great putting on that wax but to getting it off. I have to do it by hand. One detail guy said I was putting on to much wax. I am not waxing my boat this year. If anyone wants to do for me , they can keep makita with all the bonnet as payment. I must have $300 into all the equipment. 

E81E45DD-7ABE-4016-9D0C-0BA06EC31A19.jpeg

B11CD541-43CC-4962-9219-48CE743EB333.jpeg

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On 4/4/2018 at 10:21 AM, makorider said:

Best part is you can let it dry, then wipe off.

 

Ever try to get those clear swirl marks off if you let Collinite set up too long?  Buffer or no, you are screwed

So you apply and remove by Hand ? I bought the porter cable that was mentioned on the 1st page last year . Thought it worked pretty good compared to the wool DA style 

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I put it on and work it in thin with the orbital buffer.  Once it gets powdery I take it off.  It comes off easy, but don't let it dry in the sun to long and don't put it on to thick.  Because thats went it gets hard and leaves the swirls.   The Fleet wax is harder to apply.   I use the cleaner first and then the wax.  But I am thinking about this Rejex also to try. 

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On 3/30/2018 at 11:42 AM, Lagerhead said:

I'm looking for a power tool to wax my boat. Might use it for cleaning also.

 

Any suggestions? Thanks

This is the best post I seen all year. Thanks for starting. 

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5 mins ago, ccb said:

I put it on and work it in thin with the orbital buffer.  Once it gets powdery I take it off.  It comes off easy, but don't let it dry in the sun to long and don't put it on to thick.  Because thats went it gets hard and leaves the swirls.   The Fleet wax is harder to apply.   I use the cleaner first and then the wax.  But I am thinking about this Rejex also to try. 

I have called and spoke to different wax companies and detail guys.  I was given this to try after waxing. It turned yellow on boat.  Back to using only Collin wax. 

7B5690A6-35DA-4A2E-A27C-37D16D32CC29.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

On 4/4/2018 at 9:24 AM, makorider said:

As I mentioned earlier, I had a detailing business on the side in-between working deck.  I was a huge believer in Collinites for the longest time.  Despite the fact that applying it correctly is a PIA.

 

8, maybe 10 years ago someone turned me on to Rejex.  Not so much a wax as a polymer.  For whatever that's worth, or whatever that means.  What I can tell you is that if you think Collinite's lasts, and stuff doesn't stick to it, then you are in for a real treat if you try Rejex.

 

Rejex lasts so long that the boat looked better and better with each spring application.  It really lasts that long. After one of the first years I used it, I went to pick up the boat (indoor storage at the time) and I kinda blew a gasket and went ape**** on the manager, I thought he had waxed the boat which, SOP for several years running at that point was a big no-no, no one but me details the Mako.   And it is soooo much easier to apply than Collinites.  Just make sure you go over the hull with a rag and acetone to get rid of any remaining wax before you apply it the first time.

 

I kid you not. 

My boat is 18 years old and looks like new because I always used Collin wax. If I try using rejex why do I need to use acetone?  I know it will clean all the wax off but why do you need to do that ? You said the hull. I want to wax the sides I paint the hull. 

Edited by Marty

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56 mins ago, ccb said:

I put it on and work it in thin with the orbital buffer.  Once it gets powdery I take it off.  It comes off easy, but don't let it dry in the sun to long and don't put it on to thick.  Because thats went it gets hard and leaves the swirls.   The Fleet wax is harder to apply.   I use the cleaner first and then the wax.  But I am thinking about this Rejex also to try. 

I do the same with the collinite fleet . I didn't use the cleaner figuring more wax would be better . I have been using collinite  for years Grumbling like a homeless guy under a bridge while I'm applying it :laugh:

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1 hour ago, Marty said:

My boat is 18 years old and looks like new because I always used Collin wax. If I try using rejex why do I need to use acetone?  I know it will clean all the wax off but why do you need to do that ? You said the hull. I want to wax the sides I paint the hull. 

Because the wax breaks down. Need to get rid of wax so polymer can adhere directly to fiberglass. Besides being used at car shows, it is also used on leading edge of airliners and cockpit windows. Great around generator exhaust ports as you can hose off the black exhaust stains. Still doubt me and mako? Here's a bet.... do one side with your wax, the other with Rejex. If you don't see a benefit in application and performance, I will buy your leftover Rejex..... And put the rejex on the side of the boat you normally use to land fish on, so it gets a better test.

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20 mins ago, nightfighter said:

Because the wax breaks down. Need to get rid of wax so polymer can adhere directly to fiberglass. Besides being used at car shows, it is also used on leading edge of airliners and cockpit windows. Great around generator exhaust ports as you can hose off the black exhaust stains. Still doubt me and mako? Here's a bet.... do one side with your wax, the other with Rejex. If you don't see a benefit in application and performance, I will buy your leftover Rejex..... And put the rejex on the side of the boat you normally use to land fish on, so it gets a better test.

"wax is weak" like they say.

 

But then again, he's using Collins wax so you may regret that offer.  If you missed the engine height discussion.....

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